Garage Opener Probs

[Russ Filtz]

My screw-drive garage opener motor seems to be slipping. I checked the spring tension and all is well. Motor turns, but screw does not. Seemed to open with assistance but struggled, did close OK, but now even that stalls. I assume there's an internal clutch or something? Didn't see any adjustments. Is it shot, or can be fixed?

[glenn bradley]

There is generally a spring-loaded clutch mechanism of some sort. A parts breakdown or your owner's manual should point this out. I have found parts very reasonable on Genie's, not so much on Chamberlin's (sp?) or C-mans.

[Bill LaPointe]

First disconnect the operator from the door and see if you can operate the door manually. If not, check for broken spring. If broken, replace.

Second if door operates manually check rear of motor for a spring with a nut on the rear. Tighten nut until operator will open door.

[Russ Filtz]

The door springs are fine, easily opened by hand. There are no spring loaded nuts on the motor I can see, front or back. It's a Genie and the only thing I see on the back is a hall effect speed sensor screwed to the shaft. I removed the sensor and there's nothing behind it but the bare end of the screw shaft. There were a couple adjustments on the front that went from 0-7 for both UP and DOWN movement. I thought those were travel adjustments though? Cranked them both to 7 anyway (were on about 1-2) and still no change.

I I unbolt the motor from the rear, will it slide off the shaft for replacement, or do I need to disassemble the entire track, etc?

[Jim O'Dell]

Have you looked at the connector from the door to the screw? Could it be stripped out? Or not locked in good?
I also have a Genie screw drive with a problem. My light won't turn off at times. Unscrew the bulb for a few days, try it again and it works fine for a while. When it is acting up, I can hit just the light switch and the light will not go off, even with door down. I can hear the relay clicking inside the unit, but no joy.:D Glad I have a CFL in it instead of a regular bulb. Jim.

[Russ Filtz]

OK, took motor out, looks like direct connection to the shaft? No obvious clutch or adjustment? Here are some pics. Seems to be a semi-large capacitor there bottom left? Maybe that's bad?

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t67/Krustyboomer/Picture001-3.jpg
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t67/Krustyboomer/Picture002-3.jpg
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t67/Krustyboomer/Picture003-4.jpg
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t67/Krustyboomer/Picture004-2.jpg
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t67/Krustyboomer/Picture009.jpg
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t67/Krustyboomer/Picture010-1.jpg

[Russ Filtz]

Have you looked at the connector from the door to the screw? Could it be stripped out? Or not locked in good?
.

I don't think it's stripped, the motor binds down and the screw STOPS (Hall effect end of motor, rear, still spins)! If I lift up on the door, it kind of thinks like it'll work, but won't. Act's like it's slipping somewhere on the drive end, not the trolley.

And I bought the house this way! The shoddy install job was not mine (hacked up ceiling, etc.)

I'm thinking something after the keyed end of the motor is stripped? Problem is, can't see anything on the front side of the unit. I'd have to rip apart the track, etc. to get at it.

[Russ Filtz]

Fixed. deleting pics. Ended up being a combo of gummed up screw causing a coupler between the motor and screw to strip. Made of plastic. :rolleyes: Guess they had to do something to protect the motor/drive. Somewhat easy to replace once I figured out how to support everything without taking apart the rail.