What size screws for a stud wall?

[dennis thompson]

I'm planning to build a stud wall in my attic with 2 x 4's. I plan to use screws instead of nails, what size screws should I use?
Thanks
Dennis

[Rich Engelhardt]

Nail it.

Despite Holmes on Homes penchant for using screws instead of nails, it's not code in a lot of places.
Screws don't "flex" enough.
Nails have a lot more strength in framed applications.

There's been numerous threads here on SMC about it, which is where I picked up on the info.


Plus - it's just light years quicker to use a framing nailer and punch out the work than it is to drive screws.

[Doug Carpenter]

Usually we frame walls with 3" to 3 1/2" nails so I would do the same length in a screw. You will have better luck finding 3" screws.

screws might be ovekil but if that is the equiptment you have then have at it.

[Dave Houseal]

I'm a framing nailer convert! I used to think they were not worth the money, and I would build things with screws or hand nail.

I bought a Ridgid Framing nailer...it was only like $200 and I've probably put a 1,000 nails through it. It's awesome, and has probably already saved me DAYS worth of time in my projects.

If you see yourself doing construction type projects often, it can be well worth it. On the other hand it is $200 and I've never used it on a piece of furniture.

If using screws, drywall type screws just don't have the sheer strength of nails. And regular screws are pricey. Because of that I'd nail. Framing....if done right is all about sheer strength of the fasteners.

[Prashun Patel]

If the wall is not load-bearing, I'm not sure it makes much of a difference whether you use screws or nails. I built a stud wall in my basement and found it much easier, quicker, cheaper to use nails.

Beware too that screws have a tendency to split near the end of a stud when 'toe-nailing' unless you predrill.

[Steve Peterson]

3" is the largest size that they sell unless you move up to the really expensive Primegaurd screws that they have in 4" sizes.

I pre-drill with a countersink. If I am building a frame wall, I bury the countersink about 1/2" deep. This gives the 3" screw about 2" of penetration into the endgrain of the stud. It seems to hold really tight.

Steve

[Sam Layton]

Rich hit the nail on the head. Nail it. Nails provide flex. 16p nails for framing.

Sam

[Don Jarvie]

Tool of the Day will have framing nailers for 120 bucks every few weeks. Mostly Dewalts.

You can also rent a framing nailer at HD or Lowes.

If you want to use screws use deck screws. I used them to reinforce my garage and there's no way there coming loose. They also have the square head so you don't strip them like phillips heads.

I would use an impact driver and not a drill/driver. Driving 3 inch screws takes a lot of umpf from the drill and the impact works much better.

[Tom Hammond]

10d ... whatever length that is (3"?). It's plenty for framing. I would never use screws for framing unless coerced with waterboarding or the like.

[John Mark Lane]

Wow, I thought this was going to be about how much, um, gratification a guy like me needs....

Uh, sorry...

I have built partition walls in my attics in several houses, and I used screws. The reason was mainly because I didn't want to pop the stupid sheetrock (or in some cases loosen old plaster) by pounding on the floor of the attic (ceiling of the rooms below). Screws are simple, quiet and do less collateral damage.

How long should a screw be? (Well...oh, never mind....)... How thick/deep is the thing it's going into? In my case, I was attacking to 3/4 inch flooring in one instance, so anything longer than 2 1/4 would be pointless. Either way, I would think 2 1/2 would be more than adequate for attaching 2x stock to just about anything.

I happen to know that all of the walls in question are still happily standing.

:)

[Mort Stevens]

I used screws. The reason was mainly because I didn't want to pop the stupid sheetrock (or in some cases loosen old plaster) by pounding on the floor of the attic (ceiling of the rooms below). Screws are simple, quiet and do less collateral damage.

That's why a lot of guys here were recommending a framing nailer - there's no vibration when a nail gets shot in... plus it's a lot quicker than screws. If you don't have a framing nailer it's also a good excuse to add to your tool collection.

[John Mark Lane]

That's why a lot of guys here were recommending a framing nailer - there's no vibration when a nail gets shot in... plus it's a lot quicker than screws. If you don't have a framing nailer it's also a good excuse to add to your tool collection.


I have a framing nailer (PC FR350). Have had it for many years and use it regularly. But a framing nailer still "kicks" pretty hard. I recently was putting in some posts with sakrete, using sonatube. Ater 24 hours I unwrapped the sonatube and used the framing nailer to nail a plank to one of them. The krete cracked immediately from the impact. I used a screw gun for the rest of that day on the other posts, and not one of them cracked. There is a difference, and it is significant. Still, obviously a nailer will have less impact than a plain ole hammer.... but more than a screwgun.

[Joe Shinall]

That's why a lot of guys here were recommending a framing nailer - there's no vibration when a nail gets shot in... plus it's a lot quicker than screws. If you don't have a framing nailer it's also a good excuse to add to your tool collection.


A tool for a job! That justifies adding one. I bought a cheapy HF for as little framing as I do and it works great and has lasted about 2 years now. Paid like $40 for it after the %20 off coupon

[Rich Engelhardt]

If the wall is not load-bearing, I'm not sure it makes much of a difference whether you use screws or nails.

The OP mentioned he's framing a (I assume divider) wall in an attic.
Typically, you want to float an attic wall so it doesn't destroy the bearing capacity of the roof.