TS guard options - is the Shark the way to go?

[Jeff Qualmann]

I’m closing in on the install of my main PVC DC runs and about to start on my drops and blast gates. While I’ve gone to the trouble of a 6” run and minimizing sharp turns and flex wherever I can, I haven’t as of yet thought through my options for above the table TS collection. My previous experience has always been limited to stock blade guards on other saws or older, non-DC-outfitted overarm guards. If I’m going to plumb for overhead collection to the blade, now is the time to do it. I have a few questions for you folks using the aftermarket shark guard.

Here’s what I have to work with now:

· Jet 3hp Xacta Deluxe TS with stock blade guard (love the riving knife, guard is good to okay, but zero dust collection above table).
· 2 hp Grizzly 1029 DC soon to be mod’ed out with Wynn cartridge filter and some kind of Thien separator hopefully something like this (one day I hope to have me a big ‘ol Oneida or Clearvue cyclone): http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=1410277#poststop
· Nominal 20’-22’ run of 6” ASTM 2729 PVC with all straights and 45’s to minimize turbulence to saw cabinet.

I tried to summarize the advantages of each guard style as such:

Stock Jet guard: no add’l cost (since I already own it), reasonable safety (yes, I use it faithfully), can’t be used on non-thru cuts, zero dust collection

Overarm guard: (take your pick; Excalibur, Delta, Penn State, homemade, etc.) $300-500, good safety though cumbersome at times, suitable for non-thru cuts, reasonable dust collection

Shark guard: reasonable cost ($150) good safety, not suitable for non-thru cuts, excellent dust collection
http://www.leestyron.com/sharkjetxacta.php

Based on the above, and my desire to have add’l collection above the table saw, I’m strongly leaning towards the Shark guard… but I’ve never used one. For those of you that have one, is it essentially a replacement for your stock guard, but with dust collection? Does it have any practical or working advantages other than the built in dust collection port? Right now, I’m looking at the model with the 3” port as the best compromise of usability and effective dust control. The 4” just seems too unwieldy, and the 2” not big enough for effective of collection.

Please give me some feedback if I am reaching the right conclusion here.

[Robert McGowen]

I have the Sharkguard on a Jet cabinet saw. I used the saw for about 10 years without any guard at all and added the Sharkguard when the kids got old enough to help out. I have had it about a year. It has the 2" dust port and I have a 4" port on the saw itself.

After using it for a year, I will never be without it again. I use the saw almost everyday (professional use). The dust collection is great. I hang the hose by 2 lengths of chain from the ceiling. The blade cover comes off in less than a second. I just unhook one chain and move the dust cover to the side with the hose still attached. I ordered the optional pawls, but do not use them. 1) They did not seem to work well at all. 2) I do a lot of non-through cuts, so if they DID catch, they would just be a pain.

No affiliation, just recommending a great product.

[Peter Aeschliman]

If your only concern is dust collection, the fact that the shark guard can't be used on non-through cuts is a non-issue... because overarm guards are virtually worthless in terms of dust collection on non-through cuts.

If you're also concerned about safety, the overarm style guard has a clear advantage for non-through cuts. Picture yourself building kitchen cabinets with a bunch of dadoes. You can easily lose focus turn into a robot when you have 100 dados to cut. you could have your feed hand right in the path of the dado blade and not even realize it. Apparently getting your hand in a dado blade is a nearly unrepairable injury.

The overarm guards definitely are more cumbersome when it comes to adjustments... so it's up to you to weigh the value of safety vs. convenience...

[Rod Sheridan]

Jeff, in my opinion you've answered your own question.

You've determined that the Shark guard does everything you want, except work for non through cuts.

If you are never going to make non through cuts, you'll be happy with the Shark.

If you want to make non through cuts, you need an overarm guard. I had an Excalibur on a General cabinet saw for years, great guard.

As Peter indicated, the issue with non through cuts isn't dust collection, it's finger preservation. A dado can make a real mess of your hand, kind of like sticking your hand in the wood chipper......Regards, Rod.


P.S. I'm in the same spot as you, my Hammer has the stock Felder guard which is very similar to the Shark, great dust collection however it's also splitter mounted so I can't make dadoes or rebates on the saw until I purchase or make an overarm guard.

Regards, Rod.

[david brum]

Hi Jeff

I've had a Shark Guard for several years. Mine is currently attached to a Shop Fox cabinet saw. It has saved my bacon a few times when small offcuts have launched up and been caught by the hood. I don't know about your saw, but my Shark Guard can be removed or replaced in a few seconds.

I got the 2 1/2" version, which I really like because it can be served by a dedicated shop vac. The same vac also services my crosscut sled and router fence. I attached a vac coupling to the Shark Guard, making it really easy to unplug the vac for different purposes. The other benefit of course, is that I'm not stealing suction from the DC, so I can have a dedicated 6" line coming into the cabinet.

Since I use my tablesaw mainly for ripping and processing plywood, I think the Shark Guard is nearly perfect. Unless you're trimming less than 1/4" from a board, it gets nearly all of the sawdust, particularly from stuff like MDF.

[Callan Campbell]

Both the Shark and the Excalibur enjoy great respect and get great reviews. I own and really like the HTC/Brett-Guard overarm system[50A model?] for my Unisaw. It can be move sideways via its two adjustment rods to allow fence changes, esp. if you're moving right up on the blade for a thin cutoff. And also adjusted forward or backward a bit. The main arm can be totally moved to the right of the saw if you need this, but it's rare that I even unlock that screw handle to do this since I haven't made a jig that requires that much room on top of the saw to operate. Up and down movement is controlled by threaded rod with a crank handle, this gives you plenty of fast movement if it's needed
The guard has a circular cutout that allows the blade to be moved up or down at total trunnion travel if you've positioned the guard right over the blade in that spot. Otherwise, you can move your spinning blade up and kiss the clear guard in the other sections.:o Hee, Hee, I've done this once.
Removal for blade changes is quick, you turn one knob a half turn, which moves a tabbed shaft into a key slot, then you simply flip the guard up and over into the arm section since it's hinged on one side. Dust collection is a 2 inch port, and with the 4 inch port that my Unisaw came with ,I have no real issues with dust collection anymore since I simply tee'ed an adapter off my DC main line to get the 2 inch hose up to the top of the saw. My cabinet stays clean, and I have little dust or chips on top of the table, esp. if I keep the dust port right over the blade.
It's strong too. I've dropped wood on top of it, banged into it while running the saw and it doesn't really move much. The true downside is the flaky, weak anti- kick-back pawls that are built-into the rear of the guard. I don't really rely on these to prevent kickback, instead, I use the Beisemeyer splitter/riving knife system that's mounted in place of the Delta bar that the saw came with. I have two different height riving knives to work with what I'm doing. For Dados and other non-full cuts, the knives just pop out with a pull of the "Beise" holder rod that's spring loaded.
Cost WILL be more than a Shark guard for you, so that's another downside to consider. Hope this helps you out.:cool:

[Prashun Patel]

I used a Sharkguard on my last saw (Jet Proshop). I got the 4" port and it shared a line with the below-cab port to my 1.5hp DC.

1) The DC on the Sharkguard is amazing. It's better than my Sawstop now which despite being more enclosed at the 'cheeks' the suck of a shopvac doesn't compare to the airflow of a 4" dc. I highly suggest getting the widemouth. It's not unwieldy - especially if you route the duct straight up to the ceiling.

2) I loved my Sharkguard also because the hood decouples "tool-less-ly" from the splitter very easily. So, I was still able to use the splitters on narrow and non-thru cuts; something I couldn't do with my stock guard.

3) Lee sells his SG's with 3 splitters. I found occasion to use all three frequently.

The Sharkguard (for me) was a godsend for dust collection, and was well enough designed that I used it for almost every cut I had to do - including non-thrus.