Question(s) about VCT flooring

[Phil Thien]

Getting further on the basement shop re-do.

I had thought about epoxy for the floor. But due to the fact that there had been vinyl tiles before, and there is a layer (albeit micron-thin) of glue, I'd need to have the floor ground before I could do epoxy. I got a quote for grinding + epoxy and it was quite a bit more than I'd like to spend.

So I am thinking about just using Vinyl Composition Tiles (VCT).

I'm going to have painted concrete block walls. And the bottom course isn't perfectly even, and has some splatter on it from when the slab was poured (sixty years ago).

So I'm wondering how to treat the floor to wall transition.

I can't really use a base shoe because I have no way to attach it.

I thought about a bead of some sort of caulk. I guess that is doable. The largest gap I'd have to fill would be pretty small. But caulk remains sticky a long time, so it is likely it would have sawdust embedded in it in pretty short order.

Any thoughts?

[Cory Hoehn]

Hey Phil. What about some black vinyl cove base? Its typically 4" tall and can be attached with contact adhesive. The cove sticks out on the bottom about 1/4" to cover gaps.

It should be available at any flooring supplier.

Good luck with the basement!

[John Mark Lane]

I'm not sure this will be of any interest to you, but I am in the process of turning a small (16 by 10) basement room into a woodshop, so I'll share my methods in case it's of interest.

I had very rough, old (74 years) foundation walls, and a rough old floor (by the way, be aware, some of the old tile floors were laden with asbestos). I furred out the walls, using pressure treated planks (1 by on three walls, 2 by on one wall, for added support for cabinets to be installed). I also boxed around an old window opening, which opens onto the driveway, for installation of an awning window (I can load lumber in through it).

http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/ss61/jmarklane/DSCN0741.jpg

http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/ss61/jmarklane/DSCN0740.jpg

I built some basic cabinets around the utilities (electric panel, water and gas inlets and meters), and used T-111 on the walls.

http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/ss61/jmarklane/DSCN0775.jpg

Left one spot for pegboard.

http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/ss61/jmarklane/DSCN0774.jpg

Painted everything the same flat white.

http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/ss61/jmarklane/DSCN0843.jpg

I puzzled over the flooring decision for a while. I had previously installed those 2by2 basement flooring subpanels, the kind that interlock and have a honeycomb plastic underlayment. They have worked well in the main basement area, a playroom much larger than the shop area. I laid cheap Home Depot laminate flooring over the playroom floor, topped with five coats of poly, and it has held up for years. Decided to do the same here. Got this "cherry" laminate flooring for 99 cents a square foot. It's maybe 3/16 inch thick. I ignore the directions and lay it backwards (groove first), like traditional flooring, lay down a generous amount of Liquid Nails under each plank, and nail the edges (carefully) with a brad nailer. For this application, I'll put six layers of poly and give it plenty of cure time before bringing in the machines. I think it will hold up quite well.

I'm about half done laying the stuff down as of today.

http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/ss61/jmarklane/DSCN0841.jpg

http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/ss61/jmarklane/DSCN0840.jpg

[Dave MacArthur]

Phil,
I had vinyl flooring over concrete that had adhesive layer on concrete after removing vinyl. Just rented a floor buffer from HD and their coarse fiber pads, got a spray hose and shop wet vac and went to town.

The buffer with fiber pad just took the adhesive right off the concrete when it was flooded wet for 4 min or so, then I squeegeed it to one side and shop vac'd up the white slurry. Rinse, vac, dry. I laid tile on it myself. Whole 1000 sq ft took 3 or 4 hours.

[Phil Thien]

Cory, I thought of the vinyl base but the bottom course of block is rough and uneven. I think it would "telegraph" right through the vinyl, and show lots of gaps.

John, nice shop. :)

Dave, I had wondered if something like a floor sander/buffer would help. I didn't think I'd have to remove the extremely thin layer of adhesive residue if I put new vinyl tiles down. Did you switch to ceramic or something? Or are you telling me I'll have to remove the adhesive to go down with new VCT? Or are you just suggesting this as a way to remove the adhesive if I want to go with epoxy?

Note that the adhesive that was used is the yellowish solvent-based stuff. Not the thick black goop, and not the always tacky latex stuff.

[Jerome Stanek]

I worked in commercial construction for 30 years and we used rubber cove base on concrete walls all the time If you get the good Johnson rubber base it should work outwell for you.

[Ryan Baker]

I have VCT in my shop. (It is over the "thick black goop" left over from the previous tile.) Walls (not that you could see any of them) are poured concrete painted white. I didn't do anything around the base -- it's a shop, not a showroom. I just ran the tile up tight to the wall. It looks fine. If you have some lumps in the way, just get a masonry chisel and knock them off. Easy. The VCT does hold up nicely though.

[Dave MacArthur]

Phil,
I had the yellow adhesive too. I had to remove it as I was putting down ceramic tile. You could go VCT right over the top I'd guess. Was just giving you removal option in case you weren't committed to the VCT yet.

[Phil Thien]

Phil,
I had the yellow adhesive too. I had to remove it as I was putting down ceramic tile. You could go VCT right over the top I'd guess. Was just giving you removal option in case you weren't committed to the VCT yet.

Okay, thanks.

I have also thought of using the buffer like you suggested and polishing the concrete to a high sheen, maybe even adding a sealer.

Decisions, decisions...