Newbie needs chisel advice

[bob blakeborough]

Hello All,

As the title of this thread states, I am a newbie looking specifically at this point in investing in some good quality chisels that will last a lifetime. My goal is to learn my new hobby beginning more specifically through hand tool skills and then branching out further from there. I want to start by practicing things such as dovetails, mortising, etc and doing smaller projects such as simple boxes and small household items and going from there.

Now being someone who has been exclusively in the automotive industry for the past almost 25 years, I have learned the value in investing in good quality tools once rather than replacing inferior tools later, so I guess what I am trying to say is that I am not adverse to spending what I need to get what I need, which for this purchase I have a budget of $300.00 to $500.00, but I am not sure where this money is best spent. Don't get me wrong though... I would rather spend $300.00 than $500.00 dollars if the quality of the tools is no different and I am only buying status, but I don't mid spending on the higher end of my budget is there is value for my money spent.

After doing my online research, I am not ashamed to say I am a bit more confused (ok ok... a lot) than when I started. There are so many styles, sizes, etc that are available that I would like some advice as to which ones will be most versatile and cover the most ground of what I am going to be learning. My thoughts are that rather than investing in one complete set of any certain style or brand, I might be better off cherry picking the different lines and styles getting job specific chisels in the sizes I will use most, then adding tools down the road as I need them.

So if any of you more experiences hand tool users could offer me some advice on how best to spend this money and get me the most mileage out of it, I would greatly appreciate it! Oh... I should note that there is a Lee Valley store in my home city so if anything they carry is what I need, that would be nice and easy for me, but I am not adverse to ordering from outside sources as well...

Thanks in advance for any help!

Bob

[Jim Koepke]

Bob,

Welcome to the Creek. Your profile does not list your location.

Does being near a Lee Valley store indicate you are in Canada?

The advantage of that is you may be able to give their chisels a test drive before purchasing.

There is a lot to be said about how a tool feels in your hand. A great chisel with an uncomfortable or awkward handle will see less use than an acceptable piece of steel with a handle that feels good in the hand.

My chisels are not a set, they are an accumulation. One group is a motley collection of junk. Those are the ones that are used when working unknown wood like an old fence post out in the fields. They are also incase a neighbor ever wants to borrow a chisel.

So, do not be afraid to purchase a starter set or even a few extras when you come across one at a flea market. It is just like working on automobiles, it is sometimes handy to have more than one 19 mm or 3/4 inch wrench.

There are a lot of threads here on SMC about chisels and chisel buying. Most of what they show is a very wide variety of thoughts and opinions.

I have very few chisels and only one gouge that were bought new. Others have bought a set or multiple sets of some of the finest chisels made today or even ever made. Then there is the buy as you go approach. This is more to my liking as it does not bind one to a particular style, brand or type if something else comes along. If what you buy is quality and you shop for a good price, you will likely be able to sell any that do not suit your grip or way of working.

My preference is for socket chisels so I can make my own handles. One can make handles for tang chisels, but it is a bit more work.

I also find for some work I like long chisels and for other work I like short chisels. Good reason to have more than one "set."

Here are some links to past discussions on chisels:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=13734

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=92679

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=143369

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=103434

Using the search function with a term like > buy chisel <, > purchase chisel < or > best chisel < will keep you busy reading until Christmas at least.


You might also find some good information about chisels and hand tools in the Neanderthal wisdom/FAQs thread near the top Neanderthal Haven conference.

Good luck & happy hunting,

jim

[David Keller NC]

Welcome to the creek, Bob.

This topic, as you might imagine, gets discussed and discussed and discussed with no clear winner. Your choices in the budget range you noted are quite varied.

There are two brands that a great deal of us Neanders have and use that are made locally - Lie Nielsen's copies of the Stanley Everlast pattern, and a fairly unique adaptation of the tang/tapered socket design that Blue Spruce sells:

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1234

and

http://www.bluesprucetoolworks.com/cgi/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=BNCH&keywords=all

The BS bench chisels use a a maple handle that has been infused with an acrylic resin, and are nearly indestructible.

There are, of course, many, many other manufacturers, but both of these are considered very highly engineered for the purpose for which they're intended in the balance and quality of the steel/temper.

In particular, I can personally vouch for BS chisels in this last regard - the steel holds a better edge longer (significantly longer) than any other I've ever tried, including antiques from the golden age of tool making ( 19th century Sheffield)

Either choice would be highly re-saleable should you decide you want something different.

[bob blakeborough]

Thanks guys! Yeah I know the choices could be quite wide and varied and I have been scavenging the seach functions and as expected preferences will always be different person to person, but one of my main concerns (or desires I guess is better to say) is building my initial tool box by buying the styles (as opposed to brands) and sizes that I will use most commonly in the beginning. Is it a good idea to start with smaller sizes considering I wish to begin with smaller projects and of these sizes, is there more commonly used ones? Sorta like automotive tools I guess I keep comparing to for my understanding... For wheel and tire work, I use sockets in 17mm, 19mm, 21mm and 22mm most commonly, so the once in a blue moon I need a 15mm or a 15/16th" I was able to pick them up as needed. For brake work though, the tools are completely different in style and size compared to custom wheel work.

For the beginning dovetail making and mortising wannabe, is there any "specific necessities" followed by "it's nice to have" followed by "you may only use this one every hundred years but it is soooo worth it" pieces I should be considering?

Oh, I am located in Calgary AB in Canada yes, so I will absolutely go in and get a feel for what I like, but I prefer to go in armed with a bit of basic knowledge before having to deal with a salesperson who may sometimes (but not always of course) be more interested in their own best interests in making money over my best interests... I am a bit of a research nerd... :)

[Jim Koepke]

Sorta like automotive tools I guess I keep comparing to for my understanding... For wheel and tire work, I use sockets in 17mm, 19mm, 21mm and 22mm most commonly, so the once in a blue moon I need a 15mm or a 15/16th" I was able to pick them up as needed. For brake work though, the tools are completely different in style and size compared to custom wheel work.

I went to a mechanic with a friend of mine. One of the mechanic's clients was an orthopedic surgeon. A lot of the surgeon's tools were for one time use because of sterilization issues. So they ended up in the mechanic's tool collection. Imagine an open ended ratchet and how they could be handy in a tool box of someone working on cars.

For dovetails, you will want chisels that are small enough to fit into the waste areas of the joints you will be making. Bevel edged chisels allow the chisel to get in tight to the edges of the area being worked. Whether short or long chisels are best for paring is mostly up to the user.

For small and light mortising, a firmer chisel can do the work. If you are going to do a lot of mortising and heavier work in harder woods, then a pig sticker style would be more appropriate.

jim

[Zach England]

Personally, I like having sets because I can go from one size to another with two chisels that, except for the weight, feel identical in my hand. I use two sets of bench chisels--Lie-Nielsen and Matsumura white steel.

[Joe McMahon]

I just finished making some drawers using through dovetails and half blind dovetails. I had five chisels laid out and used all of them as well as a pair of skew chisels. It worked out just great.

Over the years I have bought & discarded about five sets of chisels. I now use Lie Nielsen and Blue Spruce and am very happy. I would have been money ahead if I would have started out with the LN.

Buy the best you can afford and you won't be disappointed. If you can't afford a set, buy a 1/4" and a 1/2" to start out and then fill in as you can afford new tools.

[Tony Shea]

I agree with the above comment that says
"I would have been money ahead if I would have started out with the LN"

After going through a couple different makes of chisels (beveled edge specifically) I have absolutely decided that Lie Nielsen's chisel are my favorite. Basically being a copy of the Stanley 750's of old they have an extremely nice bevel that almost comes to a point along the sides. This is extremely advantageous for jobs such as dovetails where you need to chop to the waste line next to a tail that should remain untouched by the chisel. They also feel beautiful in my hands and seem to among most users. The steel is great and handles of hornbeam are indistructable. They are also homegrown in my home state therefore I am contributing to my local economy while purchasing their items. IMO, you just can't go wrong with LN's chisels or most of their other tools for that matter.

[Adam Cherubini]

I agree with the above comment that says

After going through a couple different makes of chisels (beveled edge specifically) I have absolutely decided that Lie Nielsen's chisel are my favorite. Basically being a copy of the Stanley 750's of old they have an extremely nice bevel that almost comes to a point along the sides. This is extremely advantageous for jobs such as dovetails where you need to chop to the waste line next to a tail that should remain untouched by the chisel. They also feel beautiful in my hands and seem to among most users. The steel is great and handles of hornbeam are indistructable. They are also homegrown in my home state therefore I am contributing to my local economy while purchasing their items. IMO, you just can't go wrong with LN's chisels or most of their other tools for that matter.

I disagree with the comments above. I think new chisel users ruin their tools. Chisels are not really a long term investment. They are almost disposable. I say buy some junky chisels and get used to using them, sharpening them and don't be afraid of wrecking them (because no matter how careful you are, you probably will).

We've been thru these discussion before. Generally we try to provide answers to questions like yours given our experience. But we don't always remember our history. So, show of hands who has blued a chisel edge? Mine is up. What about more than 4 chisels? Mine is still up. Dropped chisels? (never did that one myself) Broken handles? Done that too. That's a technique error.

My point is there is no great instruction book for this tool. You have to learn by experience and that usually includes a healthy dose of mistakes. (at least it does in my shop) I think it's more wasteful to ruin good chisels than throw away, give away or put aside cheap chisels that you learned on.

Adam

[Zach England]

So, show of hands who has blued a chisel edge?


By this do you mean overheat it in sharpening?

[Roger Benton]

Have to agree with Adam here,

I've always maintained that it is not a "waste of money" to start with a beater set of chisels until one is comfortable with them and acquires the necessary proficiency in use, care and sharpening to make an educated decision for themselves on where to spend the big bucks. The upside is, the beater set will still last a good long while if not forever, and can be useful for rough work on unknown material, as lenders and for general utility work. There's no reason to throw away a cheap set of chisels when it's time to step up to top quality tools. (By "beaters" i'm talking about tools in the <$40 per set range)

That said, in a more direct response to the OP's question, by now you have probably come to the conclusion that for general work (pairing, trimming, dovetailing, cleaning and refining joints) you need a set of bevel edge chisels, preferably with the bevel terminating in as small of a flat as possible on the edge of the blade for good clearance in tight spots like dovetails. For morticing by hand nothing beats a mortice chisel; 1/4" and 3/8" models can suffice in 3/4" through 5/4 material.

You may want a couple "specialty" chisels (special these days anyway, I'm sure 100 years ago they where more of a common occurrence) like fishtail or skew chisels, or the longer, thinner pairing chisels. The models are for more specific tasks, and are probably best picked up down the road when/if their need arises.

Personally, I have a set of the swiss Pfeil chisels and they are great. Good steel, comfortable handles, good balance and good looking tools. Mid-priced. I'm happy with them and don't see myself ever needing another set of go-to fine chisels.

That Being Said-
I have used my buddies Lie Nielsen chisels a few times, and damn they are sweet. So comfortable in the hand. For 60% more than what I paid, I will not be replacing my chisels. But if I had experienced the LN's before making my purchase, I just may have ponied up for them.

I have found that on a purely ergonomic level I do not like the large octagonal style handles on some english style chisels (talking to you, Sorby!), I prefer the balance of a smaller handle. But everyone has their own preferences with these matters.

I would head to that Lee Valley store near you and try the different styles of chisel they carry just to see what seems like a good fit for you.

BTW, welcome to the creek, and good luck.

[george wilson]

The Narex chisels are perfectly good for most guys,and do not cost a fortune. I don't like their handles,but they aren't uncomfortable to use. Just something I'd change if they were mine.

The fancy A2 steel chisels of LN will turn blue,and lose temper at the same temperature as less expensive chisels. A2 is tempered at 400º just like W1 or 01.

To make a degree sign (º),hold down the option key,and press the 0 key. At least,this works on a Mac.

[bob blakeborough]

Thanks for all the great advice! I am not adverse to getting my self a set of less expensive chisels for learning with so that will probably be in the cards as well, but I definitely am someone who will pony up for a bit more quality. I grew up in a house which dictated that better quality up front saves in the long run, but I can see the point of what some of you are saying about the learning curve of working and maintaining the more cost effective tools to avoid unnecessary damage to your premium tools. Wrenches are a bit different an animal as in the fit what they fit and you pull or push as opposed to learning how to sharpen and keep sharp a keen edge in a variety of materials...

[Zach England]

I don't understand how you would generate that kind of heat unless you are power-sharpening.

[Sean Hughto]

Like any other tool, chisels are not objects that exist in a vacuum - in some abstract dimension where they wait for theoretical use. Rather they are dependent upon the user's skills in both maintenance and operation. Sharpening chisels is straightforward, but can be intimidating to beginners. Chopping or paring a motise, and shaping dovetails, etc., are, of course, challenges, at least the first time you do it. Are you ready to sharpen? Are you ready to chop some mortises? Assuming you are, I suggest that you choose a new project - preferably one that is sort of typical of your immediate future slate of projects - and buy the chisels necessary to complete that specific project. If it has dovetails, buy the size or two necessary to cut the dovetails (1/4 or 3/8ths in most cases) in a brand you are attracted to (new: LN, Ashley Iles, Blue Spuce; vintage: witherby, buck, Stanley, etc.). If the project involves mortises and you wish to chop them, as opposed to pare a drilled out cavity, I highly recommend you get the appropriate sized Ashley Iles "pigsticker." On the next project, you might try other options. Before you know it, you will have your own strong preferences that fit your own sharpening and working styles.

[Sean Hughto]

Adam has used a treadle powered stone I believe. One could certainly get a large stone spinning fast enough with a treadle to fry the thin cutting edge of a chisel.

[Roy Wall]

I don't understand how you would generate that kind of heat unless you are power-sharpening.

Correct -

I'm guessing George is referring to the time when your secondary (and tertiary) bevels are taking too much time to work up a burr. The Primary bevel needs to be reground and lots of people use a grinder. Light touch and light passes will prevent bluing, but you need to take care. Not difficult, just one of those skills.....

[Jonathan McCullough]

I think the Ashley Iles bevel edge bench chisels would be a good all around choice. You can pare with them, do dovetails and other joinery, and bang on them with a mallet if you really want. The steel is good, the backs are flat, and the bevel edge really is a bevel edge. I have the butt chisel size--they're ideal for my purposes, which is dovetailing. The LN and Blue Spruce are very nice but I haven't tried them; that said, I don't think you need to spend that much for a chisel. I just don't. For mortises, Narex has a good set of sash mortise chisels. For mortises above those sizes, you'd probably be better off drilling and paring instead. I've also found myself using a bigger size firmer type chisel pretty often--two inches, or longer if I could get it--for all sorts of weird stuff, like deepening the sides of dadoes. Seems like I'm always reaching for it. For that one I don't think you need anything fancy.

[Adam Cherubini]

I guess the other advantage of cheap chisels is that they allow you to experiment with different bevel angles and sharpening techniques without concern. I really prefer low bevel angles on my chisels. And I grind different angles on different chisels depending on the width of the tool.

With regards to having too many chisels, I happen to love chisels and feel strongly they are under used by modern woodworkers. I do a demonstration where I rough in a rabbet with a chisel, moving a lot of wood in a short period of time. I think have have somewhere around 100 bench chisels on active duty and probably as many reservists.

Hi, my name is Adam and I have a chisel (and saw and plane) problem.

[Steve Milito]

We've been thru these discussion before. Generally we try to provide answers to questions like yours given our experience. But we don't always remember our history. So, show of hands who has blued a chisel edge? Mine is up. What about more than 4 chisels? Mine is still up. Dropped chisels? (never did that one myself) Broken handles? Done that too. That's a technique error.

My point is there is no great instruction book for this tool. You have to learn by experience and that usually includes a healthy dose of mistakes. (at least it does in my shop) I think it's more wasteful to ruin good chisels than throw away, give away or put aside cheap chisels that you learned on.

Adam

I agree that moderate price but high quality chisels are a good place to start. Yet, of the listed mistakes, only overheating the chisel would really ruin the chisel. Handles can be replaced, and nicked edges sharpened.

[george wilson]

You can also break blades from chopping too hard when mortising with a non-mortising chisel,opening paint cans,or any number of things that an impatient newbie might do.

A great deal of skill development is learning to be patient and methodical,which few are when starting out.

[Sean Hughto]

I once broke a blade on a 1/2" stanley chisel when trying to split a tenon for a wedge. I drove the chisel in too far and got it stuck. I was concerned that my glue was fast setting and got impatient trying to wiggle the chisel free. I was surprised how easily it snapped really. Lessons learned ...

Good to have some vintage beaters around for work that might put an expensive chisel in peril. I reground my broken 1/2" and it remains a fine "butt" chisel for this "butt head."

[john davey]

Well, I chose to go with older chisels and a set of Blue chips to start. I am a newbie to all things in this forum as well. and I am not to the point yet where I think I am ready to purchase a high end set. Too many people here that know more than me swear by them so I consider that enough proof that they are better (whatever brand). But I am not cracking till my skills can see the difference. Sharpening is one of the skills as well and it is something that takes some time as well to get right. I will say that I have found a few older Stanleys that seem to sharpen better and hold that edge better than my blue chips. Given that I will keep the blue chips forever but they will be seeing some pretty rough work as time goes on :). My favorite older chisels are the Stanley everlasting #40. I believe these are whta thte call butt chisels. The shorter handle just feels right in my hands but I think that is something you will need to discover on your own.

If I have a LV store in the hood I would have to move. I like to eat to much :)

[Zach England]

You can also break blades from chopping too hard when mortising with a non-mortising chisel,opening paint cans,or any number of things that an impatient newbie might do.

A great deal of skill development is learning to be patient and methodical,which few are when starting out.


Being new to woodworking is no reason to open a paint can with a chisel. Who does that? I will admit to having used a screwdriver, but using a chisel, much less a chisel one intends to use for woodworking, seems to defy all common sense.

[george wilson]

Might defy it,but I've seen it done.

[Christian Castillo]

I agree with what Adam Cherubini just said, about two years ago I took an intro into hand woodworking, let me just say that at the end of the course, every student there, including myself, wished they would have bought 10$ chisels. You will be practicing your chiseling technique, your sharpening technique, trying out bevel angles, you tend to wear away more steel in those few months than an experienced woodworker would wear away in many years. The second thing many students also regretted was buying a chisel set. You end up with chisel sizes that you hardly use, or may not even use for a very long time. Buy the sizes that you need for the projects you will build, after a few projects you will have settled on the sizes you truly need.

By the way, I started with a couple of Chutaro Imai chisels to begin learning on, huge mistake. Every mistake sharpening them drove me nuts just because of how much they cost. I sold them and bought 6 vintage cast steel buck bros chisels for 5$ each. In my hands, the buck bros do everything the Imai chisels did, I may have to sharpen a bit more frequently compared to the Imai chisels ( Actually this is a plus for a beginner, more practice), but I am not at the level where I can perceive the difference in such tools.

[bob blakeborough]

Weird... Made a reply further back and it seems to have not shown up?!

Anyways, just want to thank you all for the great advice! I definitely see the advantage to what many of you have posted about buying an inexpensive set start with as to not risk damaging a more expensive set of premium chisels during the initial steep learning curve. I believe I still am going to invest in some better chisels also, but I am also going to get me a set of less expensive one to practice with and in the end have 2 sets that I can choose between based on the job and degree of possible damage. I am going to start looking at Lee Valley this weekend and will update soon with my final (or more approriately named "initial") chisel purchase!

[Rick Erickson]

I disagree with the comments above. I think new chisel users ruin their tools. Chisels are not really a long term investment. They are almost disposable. I say buy some junky chisels and get used to using them, sharpening them and don't be afraid of wrecking them (because no matter how careful you are, you probably will).

We've been thru these discussion before. Generally we try to provide answers to questions like yours given our experience. But we don't always remember our history. So, show of hands who has blued a chisel edge? Mine is up. What about more than 4 chisels? Mine is still up. Dropped chisels? (never did that one myself) Broken handles? Done that too. That's a technique error.

My point is there is no great instruction book for this tool. You have to learn by experience and that usually includes a healthy dose of mistakes. (at least it does in my shop) I think it's more wasteful to ruin good chisels than throw away, give away or put aside cheap chisels that you learned on.

Adam

I have to disagree with the comments above and agree with the comments above those. For most if not all novice wood workers chisels are not 'almost disposable'. There is nothing wrong with buying a set of LN (or other) high dollar chisels. If you are really that afraid of ruining your steel on a grinder go buy one cheap chisel and grind away. After about 1 hour on the grinder you will no longer be afraid of it and no longer ruin your edge. You can then go to your LN chisels and happily (without fear) use them for the rest of your woodworking life. If you are worried about dropping them on the floor put a mat below your feet. And if dropping them really worries you by all means don't spring for a really nice hand plane because that will also end up on the floor.

[Jonathan McCullough]

Ha ha, touche Rick.

If you make a living using your chisels, Adam's advice is good I think. But who makes a living using chisels? People who make furniture professionally don't do it by hand. Sorry, they just don't. I think a lot of people have tried and failed to make a living making furniture using only hand tools. Another way to make a living using hand tools is to teach other people to use them, or to give demonstrations, like Adam. Then you would need a hundred chisels and have some routine to either sharpen them quickly or show people how to do that.

For someone like me and, I'd suspect, most of the rest of us posting here, one set will probably last me a lifetime, just as Rick suggests. And in that case, it's not bad advice to get the best you can afford. I've discovered that for flattening backs, or reestablishing a bevel on a chipped-up chisel, or rehabbing a rusty old chisel I found at a neighbor's garage sale, the sandpaper from a belt sander, laid flat with spray adhesive a la scary sharp, is safer than a grinding wheel. I've always gotten where I wanted with it, and I've never burnt a chisel. If I had twenty students like Adam, I'd definitely be looking at alternatives.

Another thing to consider is that the supply of old chisels is finite and like many things (saws come to mind), appears to be getting more expensive. That doesn't mean that when I see them, they somehow find their way into my "to be restored" pile.

Some good inexpensive chisels that are on sale during July are MHGs from Hartville Tool. The steel is hard, surprisingly durable, and if you get the metric sizes they're cheaper. The plastic handled ones are okay but the wooden handled ones with hoops are more comfortable. A little solvent gets the varnish off so you can sharpen it.

[Jared McMahon]

I don't see that anyone mentioned the Buck Brothers chisels on offer at Craftsman Studio. While I don't have experience with them, others have had good things to say about them, and they're clearly cheap enough where if one of them suffers serious injury, you won't cry (maybe just wince a bit).

[Bob Warfield]

Another option to confuse you is to try the yellow plastic handeled Buck Brothers and Stanley Fat Max chisels available at the big Orange and the Blue box stores. It has been my experience that the Stanleys work very well at a 25 degree bevel and will not hold up to any type of mallet use. The Bucks work nicely with a 30 degree bevel and you can pound on them all day long with a mallet. They are not pretty but are usually less than $10.00 each and are very good to learn with.
It did however take quite a bit of time to flatten the backs but that too is part of the learning process.
I originally flattened and sharpened all mine with sandpaper from 180 grit thru 2,000 grit and got a very nice edge. I have since started useing Norton water stones to 8,000 grit and have noticed a remarkable difference.
Good Luck,
Bob Warfield

[bob blakeborough]

Hey all!

Sorry to revive an old thread, but I just got word that the majority of my chisel order is shipping today! I thought I would fill you all in on my final decision since everyone took the time to give me some great feedback and advice...

So as a bit of a background again, I initially was looking at a sub-$500.00 budget and wanted premium tools that will hopefully not only out live myself, but get passed down. Well since starting this initial thread my wife and I were left a small inheritence that we were specifically directed to "use for something purely for enjoyment and not responsibility", so after much deliberating and blessings from my wife, I was given the go ahead to purchase my dream tools!

In an earlier thread I had posting my first gloat being a great haul from Lee Valley, and since I just got the news that the majority of my chisel order shipped out today, I figured I can let the cat out of the bag...

Thanks to Mr Dave Jeske and all his patience and assistance, I am the proud new owner of a variety of Blue Spruce Toolworks Chisels, marking tools and mallet! Coming on this order, I have a 4 piece Dovetail set, Marking knife/awl set, 1/2" Fishtail, 3/8" Skew set, Carbide Burnisher, 16 ounce Mallet, Marking Guage, and following in about 2 weeks is the last part of the order and the Pièce de résistance... A full set of Dave awesome Bench Chisels! Now for the kicker... After talking with Dave and learning from him that he has been experimenting with infusing Walnut, I am lucky and pleased to be getting one of the very first sets of his bench chisels with infused Walnut handles! Secondly, I am also getting one of the first 9 piece sets which include the new 1/8" Bench Chisels...

I would say Christmas comes early, but since it is my 40th b-day shortly, we'll use that as an excuse! I will be sure to post pics when they are finally in my hot little hands...