Leaking Goblets

[Moshe Eshel]

I turned some goblets to use for drinking...
I made three:
1. Small shot sized from Almond tree
2. Large bowl type from Olive
3. another more classic goblet from a tree I was told was "Pistacia palaestina"

First two didn't get any finish (the first because I was lazy, the second was the clients request), the third was soaked in "Food Safe Finish" - some sort of oil

The first two survived one drinking session, and after a week, on the second time developed a leak, the oiled one didn't.

Now I'm not surprised at this, even less so from the Olive wood - since it actually cracked (like I warned the client it will), and I assumed that some sort of finishing is required...

So, is the oil the right way to go? should I use something more durable? (I want to make a few more as friends and everyone that saw these was very impressed - and I don't want them to leak + I need to fix the "broken" ones)

Thank you!

[Jeff Nicol]

Moshe, This has been addressed before, but the best way to do this is with some sort of epoxy. There are the types that come in different sizes used as a pouring type that has the main resin and then a hardener that are used on table tops etc. You can take the 5 minute epoxy types and dilute them with DNA so it will soak into the wood better. This way may take a few coats to get a good film built up on the inside of the goblet. I have used the 3 part casting resin to coat items that I want a high gloss and thick layer of protection on them. It tends to set up fast so mix a small amount at a time and get it worked onto the piece. Then when it is dry sand or turn it back and apply another coat. This will fill all the voids and can be sanded and buffed to a very nice finish.

So that all being said, find the best solution in your area, or one you are comfortable trying and practice on some little dishes to get the process figured out. Then give the goblets a go!

Have a great day,

Jeff

[Bernie Weishapl]

Moshe I agree with Jeff. Epoxy works pretty good. I have did two so far and want to experiment some more but mixed some good System Three epoxy from woodcraft and then mixed it with DNA till it was the consistancy of milk. I painted it on till it wouldn't take anymore. I then used just straight System Three epoxy to coat the inside all the way to the lip. Mix it in a 2:1 ratio. I applied the epoxy and then put it back on the Jet 1220 lathe as a very slow speed (maybe 10 rpm) till it dried. I am thinking of using a rotisserie off a grill to do this. It keeps the finish more even. On the outside I used antique oil. So far it has did pretty well but time will tell. I let it dry several days before use to make sure the epoxy was set and dry. Takes a little practice but so far so good. You can read about it in the Woodcraft catalog.

[Belton Garvin]

I haven't done any myself but have watched several videos oif people using Medium/Thick CA applied with wax paper. I would think it would be easier to work with and get a smooth coat then using epoxy. Epoxy will fill larger gaps but would be hard to get to dry evenly. CA you can apply with the lathe on and drys really quick (not as quick as some would think). Both should seal well but it's really a personal choice and what you are comfortable with trying.