Flush saw questions?

[Herbert Mulqueen]

I been looking at some flush saws.

The purpose is to cut off dowels, Kreg plugs, Kehoe jig splines.

Do I buy something once like the Bridge City flush saw ?

Suggestions please.

Thanks,

Herb

[Doug Shepard]

I've tried a number of things but what I end up using is a Shark Saw. It's a Japanese style with a higher TPI on one side and coarser one on the other, with a black plastic handle. I lay it on it's side on a couple of business cards to keep the teeth off the surface and use the fine TPI side to saw through the plug. What's left proud of the surface is taken care of with a few swipes of a sharp block plane.

[Sam Takeuchi]

It's a simple tool designed for a simple task whichever way you look at it, I'd say go for something like Veritas one ($20), or if you don't like the plastic handle, with extra bit of 12 or 15 bucks, you can get a Japanese flush saw. I honestly can't see Bridge City flush saw performing so much better that paying over 3 times more than Veritas one is justifiable for me. I know Bridge City tools produce quality products and I'm sure their flush saw wouldn't disappoint, but what's important is what matters to you in a flush saw.

[Jim Tobias]

Herbert,
I agree with what others have said about flush cutting. That said, I have a Bridge City flush cut saw and it does cut extremely well. The blade is very flexible and there is no set to the teeth. You can keep one finger down on the blade as you cut and it will not damage surface of the surrounding wood.

Jim

[Terry Beadle]

I use a thin card scraper laid flat by the offending object of the cut. Lay your dove tail saw or a dozuki or what ever saw you have that has the narrowest kurf and saw around the target. Put a finger in the side of the saw blade near the object of cutting to keep the saw steady in the kurf cut to avoid binding.

My favorite is a dozuki saw. I have a japanese cut off saw but it always wants to bind so I really need to adjust the set in that saw but have never gotten around to it as the dozuki works great.

A plastic business card will also work well instead of a thin card scraper.

Trim what ever is left with a good paring chisel or a low angle block plane and you will enjoy a smooth surface.

Good Luck !

[Dave Ring]

I use my MIJ TopMan flushcut saw all the time and it works great. Less than $10 from Harbor Freight and it has a nice wooden handle too.

[Sean Hughto]

http://japanwoodworker.com/assets/images/product/JapanWoodworker/15.815.0.jpg

Japan Woodworker and Lee Valley sell this saw. It's fantastic for flush cutting and won't break the bank.

[Jonathan McCullough]

I got the Stanley FatMax flush cut saw. I like it. It works. No complaints. The blade is flexible so you can bend it to reach hard-to-access places. The tips of the teeth are blackened by induction hardening and are sharp as thousands of little scalpels. Cuts on the pull stroke, and there's a bit of set from the bottom toward the top, so there's clearance for the rest of the blade; as such one side says "This side up."

[Paul Saffold]

for the one Sean recommends. $24.50 from Lee Valley. I bought it on the review in Pop. Woodworking and haven't been disappointed.

[Jamie Buxton]

I've got a Japanese saw intended for flush cutting. It has no set on the teeth so it doesn't scratch the surrounding area. In my hands, it has a problem. With no set on the teeth, the saw body is exactly the same width as the kerf, so the saw hangs up in the kerf if I'm cutting anything more than an eighth deep or so. Instead, I use a regular pull saw laying on a biz card or some other spacer, and then I trim the plug flat with a chisel. I lay the chisel flat on the surface, and cut the peg with a slicing motion.

[Stuart Tierney]

That name of the saw you are looking for is a 'kugihiki', where a 'kugi' means 'nail or pin', 'hiki', pretty much means 'to cut/cutter'. Might make the search a little easier.

I could tell you what saw I use/would choose, but that would be self promotion so I can't. Sorry. :(

[Derek Cohen]

Oh go on Stu! :) You can "self-promote" all you want as far as I am concerned. I have always found you objective and knowledgeable, and offered your advice freely for years. I think more need to know where to find you as you offer a "direct-from-Japan" service with items that are not stocked by other on-line stores. However, to respect policy here, keep contact to PMs.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Eric Brown]

I have and like the Zona. Here is one supplier for about $8.50. They also have the Zona 4-in-1 set at a low price.

http://www.micromark.com/ZONA-FLUSH-CUTTING-SAW,8298.html

I also have one by Crown that feels better in my hand than the Zona and it also works well.

Eric

[Stuart Tierney]

Don't listen to Derek folks, he knows not of what he speaks!

(Like that's going to work anywhere... ;) :o)


That's interesting, I could sworn I put up a bunch of small Mitsukawa saws, including a kugihiki. Must have gotten lost somewhere. :(

Might be a good idea to fix that soon, so long as I don't end up swimming in chisels first. :eek:

[Steven Herbin]

To make a short story long, I was using the LN Butt Mortise plane to attach a hinge and looked at the large mouth and said to myself, this would be great for trimming dowels and kreg plugs. So I adjusted the blade level with the sole and tried it.

Worked great!

The problem I always had with the flush cut saw was that it requred some skill to not cut the surface, or some cards to keep it above the surface. Butt mortise plane -- no skill involved once it's adjusted.

Just another use for a tool I already had (and it's "only" $110).

--Steve.

[Herbert Mulqueen]

First thanks to all of your inputs.

Here are some choices. Remember "FREEDOM" is the ability to choose.

Saws-----

Bridge City ------$ 69.00
Vertas------------$ 20.00
Lee Valley--------$ 25.00
Stanley shark----$ 15 to 20

Use a router

Block plane-------$ 110.

As to saws ----I sure most people can appreciate BC tools. However 3 times the price seems a tad high if you only want to trim a dowel. If it does it better quicker maybe.

I have a Micro-Fence 3 Axis Mill, and every time I use it, I marvel at the workmanship and genius of the design.

Perhaps one can feel that way from the Bridge city saw. Right now, I having a hard time justifying the cost.

A lot of people complain about the saw blade getting jammed in the kerf.

I see lots of recommendations for plastic cards, thin metal shields, when using a saw. Some people recommended using a Dozuki saw and use a plastic card --because this saw will not bind.

Another person recommended a block plane----"very interesting".

So many choices.

Again thanks for your great inputs.

Herb

One interesting comment-----a number of chats on the internet say---hit the no set tooth blade and you just ruined a saw. Cannot be fixed.

[Herbert Mulqueen]

The answer was DO NOT GET A DOZUKI . Get a cut off flush saw just for cutting dowels and wedges.

I was hoping that I could bypass the frustration of the saw getting caught/stuck in the wood.

I let you know which cut off saw.

Thanks again,

Herb

[Larry Marshall]

http://japanwoodworker.com/assets/images/product/JapanWoodworker/15.815.0.jpg

Japan Woodworker and Lee Valley sell this saw. It's fantastic for flush cutting and won't break the bank.

I second this recommendation but would suggest that it be used in the other direction. One side of this saw has no set (as a flush-cut saw should have) and if you flip this saw over, the no set side is down, as it should be.

Cheers --- Larry