Router Table Question

[Dennis Putnam]

I just finished building my router table and there is a little side play between the opening and the plate. I have my own idea how to solve it but I'd rather hear from the experts. Thanks.

[Jon Bonham]

My plate has an adjustment on the side to take out any play. You might check yours because I didn't realize it was there for some time (didn't need it.)

[glenn bradley]

If the plate needs to come in and out frequently for bit changes I would laminate a strip of material along the offending edge and re-shape. If the plate will mostly stay in I might be tempted to thread two corners of the plate and screw into it from below to hold it stationary once leveled.

[Dennis Putnam]

The plate is solid and there is no way to drill for screws nor is their an adjustment for side play from the inside. My thought was to use a couple of countersunk wood screws into the offending sides and thread them in/out to make the fit snug. As for laminating the sides, I don't think that is practical as the result would be too thin to really hold and I don't know how I could re-cut the opening without using the same template that left the play in the first place. Should I not expect zero play?

[Jim Pritchett]

Dennis,

The countersunk screw idea is fine. Instead of drilling them into edge of the plate, consider drilling them in the side of the opening. Two screws along the long axis and 2 in the short axis should give you all the adjustment you will ever need. Jim Pritchett

[Dennis Putnam]

Yes, that was my thought. Much easier to drill into MDF than aluminum and threading it. Thanks.

[Myk Rian]

Should I not expect zero play?
You want 0 play. If it moves while cutting, you'll have errors in the finished product.
Why not use wood laminate on the inside edges of the cutout?

[glenn bradley]

I'm with Myk, zero play is essential. The template could be "adjusted" by layering tape along the edge that is cutting too deep if you choose to laminate. If I am understanding that the difference is so small that even a strip of veneer is too thick, put tape on the esdge of the plate, install it and force epoxy into the slot between the tape and the cutout edge. Once cured remove the plate, remove the tape, hand sand the expoy a bit if required and rock on.

[Michael Simpson Virgina]

Built a table a few years back and I took 8 small brass screws and set them in the corners of the cavity. 4 were faced down in each corner and were used to level the base. IF your base has this built-in you wont need these.

The other 4 screws went in horizontaly into each corner. You will need to drill pilot holes and then a small countersink to recess each head. Then just insert the 4 screws completely and back them out a little at a time to remove the slop.