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Rick Huelsbeck
07-13-2010, 12:26 PM
On my new shop (disguised a garage :D) Final diminsions will be 24' by 24' or 560 square feet. I going to put in a through the wall AC/Heater (25000 BTU AC/ 16000 BTU Heat) 100 Amp service with enough 220 outlets for the larger equipment and possibly 1 or 2 extra just in case. I will keep updating as constuctions moves along.

Rob Damon
07-13-2010, 1:13 PM
Rick, Congrats on the new shop. After three years mine is still a work in progress.

The 25,000 btuh should keep you fridged if you insulated well. I have a window A/C that same size for a 1200 sf shop and it can keep it at 70 deg all day long and it cycles on and off and does not run continuously. Even when it gets to over 100 deg and stays in the 80's at night.

So you should be good to go for the A/C.

Rob

Van Huskey
07-13-2010, 1:23 PM
Congrats, I am getting closer to breaking ground (more like adding ground) and it still seems like it will be forever!

Mitchell Andrus
07-13-2010, 2:02 PM
Don't forget a low voltage conduit for intercom, internet...
.

Don Jarvie
07-13-2010, 2:14 PM
+1 with Mitch.

I'd add a few extra pieces of conduit for future applications. You never know a few years down the road you want to add something.

Rick Huelsbeck
07-14-2010, 6:49 AM
Boy did they make a mess getting it done though. Huge ruts where they brought the concrete truck back. I'm sure a lot of construction sites look like this during the process. :(

One thing I don't understand is why they would make steps in the footer? Does anyone know why they would do that? :confused:

As far as pulling cables to my shop for the computer, not only no, but H E double hockey sticks NO :D. I agree it could be convenient but I make my living sitting in front of computer, and the last thing I want where I'm going to escape my normal life is a computer :confused:. I have a small TV with a dvd player I will have out there for watching a video on an occassion. As far as an intercom I'm a single man and don't see that changing anytime soon. I'm going to have to get a doggie door out there though. :D I have a wireless phone system that I can walk about 500 feet from my house and it still works. The corner of the garage is only going to be 12 feet off of the corner of my house. BTW I've sat in my back yard with a laptop and it will hit my wireless router with a good signal, so on the very very slim chance I take it in the garage I should actually have a signal.

Ken Fitzgerald
07-14-2010, 7:14 AM
Congrats on the new shop Rick! Looks like it's coming along. It's a long but enjoyable process.

The steps in the footer.....was there a significant change in elevation there?

Rick Huelsbeck
07-14-2010, 7:24 AM
Congrats on the new shop Rick! Looks like it's coming along. It's a long but enjoyable process.

The steps in the foorter.....was there a significant change in elevation there?


There is about a foot difference over all. Just looks funny

Ken Fitzgerald
07-14-2010, 7:38 AM
Rick,

To have the top of the wall come out level, by putting steps in, they can frame out with wall studs so the top comes out level. If it ran at an angular slope, each stud would have to be cut to a slightly different length. By using steps, each stud within a given area can be cut to the same length and the top of the wall will come out even.

That is a just gross speculation on my part.

Joe A Faulkner
07-15-2010, 11:20 PM
I started a total remodel on a 22 x 22 detached garage in February. I still haven't decided on my HVAC yet. My original concern was heat, but now I'm thinking of AC as well. Do you know the specifics on the unit you are planning to use?

Robert Malone
07-16-2010, 5:54 AM
Rick, the steps are to save block and each should be the height of the block they will be using, 8" in most cases. So there must be a drop on the right side of the garage door.

An important step right now is to get the ground treated for termites, before
the slab is poured.

Rick Huelsbeck
07-25-2010, 3:47 PM
I painted the outside with one layer of dry-lok and a second layer of Behr Premium for Stucco and Masonary

I thought the job would be a breeze as I have a power painter by Ryobi. I'd used it to paint the foundation on my house (25'x35'x4') and had it done in 1.5 hours. Well did you know those things are worthless:( when it comes to dry-lok, it could not pump it up to the roller. I wound up doing the dry-lok by hand with a 5" brush, if my girlfriend had not helped I think I would still be out there. As it was I spent 11 hours, and 9.5 gallons of dry-lok. That block is sealed. I was going to do the inside while I was at it, but the garage builder stopped by and he told me that when he puts the roof on it's not going to interfere with painting the inside. Ok, I'm waiting to get the AC (that is what the hole in the back is for) in before I start that job. Going to use dry-lok in there as well. I figure if nothing else it will make it brighter in there.

I used the same paint as I used on my foundation to paint the second coat and well that was done in 6 hours, more pictures next week, he is starting the roof tomorrow, says when he starts that he will stay on it till it's done, usually in 4 days. I'm going to be painting again next weekend it looks like. Ok maybe one day, I'm heading to the lake one day:D