I am glad I used a splitter!

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Yesterday evening I was ripping some 1 x 6s into 1 3/4" strips for the face frame on a cabinet I am building.

Now you can go ahead and hammer me but....I have a Ridgid TS3650 and I always use the manufacturers blade guard UNLESS I'm using my dado blade.

The 1x6 had been in my shop for 2 weeks and should have acclimated properly. The blade guard on my saw has a splitter and the 1 3/4" strips were coming back together with the rest of the board just as the board was clearing the back of the table saw.

I jointed the 1x6 and they were straight when I started but obviously when I ripped them I released some internal tensions.

I can only imagine what would have happened without that splitter.

It was too late to purchase more wood so I ripped some 3/4" plywood for the faceframe. The cabinet is for my shop and will be painted anyway.

[Callan Campbell]

You were working safe, using the safety guards that came with your table saw[unlike a recent infamous court case] and a fence. I too have been startled by kickback or tension release of solid wood when it comes to working on my table saw. But I didn't suffer any injury other than a bruise in each case. Having said that, I'm REAL glad I have a splitter/riving knife and an overarm guard. Cheers Ken, you avoided damage to yourself and grief for your family, take a bow. Now go finish that shop cabinet..;)

[Rod Sheridan]

Ken, glad to hear that you're safe and sound.

Safety equipment is important, too bad so much of it so poorly executed.....Rod.

[Van Huskey]

Ken, glad to hear that you're safe and sound.

Safety equipment is important, too bad so much of it so poorly executed.....Rod.


Also glad to hear all is well.

Unfortunately, Rod, we have much to blame ourselves for as a community. We have given the manufacturers the idea that safety doesn't sell. It just costs the ones of us more in either the initial purchase price of third party add-ons. The latter is a small industry due to lack of demand and the significant liability that goes with such products.

[Will Overton]

Now you can go ahead and hammer me but....I have a Ridgid TS3650 and I always use the manufacturers blade guard UNLESS I'm using my dado blade..

I do the same with my Craftsman and will continue to do the same when I get a SawStop.

I'd much rather read the post you started this thread with, than see a picture of blood or bruises. Keep up the good work.

[Rod Sheridan]

Also glad to hear all is well.

Unfortunately, Rod, we have much to blame ourselves for as a community. We have given the manufacturers the idea that safety doesn't sell. It just costs the ones of us more in either the initial purchase price of third party add-ons. The latter is a small industry due to lack of demand and the significant liability that goes with such products.

Very true, I recently wrote FWW complaining about photographs where people are using saws without guards.

It's true for other publications and wood shows as well, although I noticed that Scott Philips always uses the guard on his saw, except when making non through cuts.

If Scott can do it, why can't others show the proper way to use machinery?

Why can't Scott, and others, install an Excalibur or equivalent guard and talk about it on every show briefly such as comments similar to......"and a good aftermarket guard allows me to safely cut this rebate without exposing the blade".

I think that magazines and shows are a major part of the lack of proper operation by hobby workers, which of course demonstrates to companies that we aren't interested in safety.

Regards, Rod.

[Don Morris]

I have a Grizzly 1023SL which is close to a Unisaw clone. Close enough that I installed a Uni. splitter without any modifications. That small piece of metal which cost well over $100.00+ but certainly no more than $5.00 to manufacture, is one of my "safety musts". My basement low, low ceiling has kept me from installing an overarm guard, but with my splitter, Grrripers, push sticks, Grip-tites, positioning me out of the way when possible, and a very healthy respect for my TS, I've managed to avoid damage. I guess, the next step is to install one of the add-on riving knives. Actually, I'm hoping to win the lottery, then I'll move into a mansion with a real big shop and get a slider. LOL.

[Bill White]

Don states my position well. My G0444Z ALWAYS has the splitter and guard in play unless there are non-thru cuts at hand. Even cutting some rabbets yesterday without the guard and splitter tightened up my _______.
Bill

[glenn bradley]

I can only imagine what would have happened without that splitter.

Well done. That's exactly why we use them, eh? I am surprised that such a simple safety accessory gets ignored by so many folks.

[Michael Simpson Virgina]

About 5 or 6 years ago I was cutting some plywood on my Delta cabinet saw. Somehow it caught and kicked it back.

Well this 3hp (with 3 pulleys) was not going to stop for nothing. It shattered the guard, Mangled the splitters and threw the big monster fence off of the saw.

I put my hand up to protect my face and the board broke my hand in three places.

Now since then I do the following.

1. I never use the crappy plastic guard. It just gets in the way and creates shrapnel in the case of a kickback.

2. I use a very heavy duty splitter that's always the same thickness of the saw blade.

3. I use two special hold downs that pull the stock to the fence. These work so well that I can literally stop feeding during the cut and walk around to the back of the saw and pull the stock through.


I firmly believe that the stock guards on some saws give a false sense of security.

[Van Huskey]

Very true, I recently wrote FWW complaining about photographs where people are using saws without guards.

It's true for other publications and wood shows as well, although I noticed that Scott Philips always uses the guard on his saw, except when making non through cuts.

If Scott can do it, why can't others show the proper way to use machinery?

Why can't Scott, and others, install an Excalibur or equivalent guard and talk about it on every show briefly such as comments similar to......"and a good aftermarket guard allows me to safely cut this rebate without exposing the blade".

I think that magazines and shows are a major part of the lack of proper operation by hobby workers, which of course demonstrates to companies that we aren't interested in safety.

Regards, Rod.

I agree, the "guard removed for clarity" argument hits me like "we don't use a guard and couldn't be bothered to put it on" followed by "do as I say, not as I do". I think the use of guards on TS is much lower then we even think. I will say (and assume you agree) European manufacturers have done a better job at machine guarding and I think part of that is due to the higher safety requirements in those countries.

[Rod Sheridan]

I agree, the "guard removed for clarity" argument hits me like "we don't use a guard and couldn't be bothered to put it on" followed by "do as I say, not as I do". I think the use of guards on TS is much lower then we even think. I will say (and assume you agree) European manufacturers have done a better job at machine guarding and I think part of that is due to the higher safety requirements in those countries.

Absolutely, European manufacturers have also had to deal with noise and dust emission regulations.

I recently purchased a Hammer B3 Winner and the manual lists the following certifications for dust and noise

The dust emissions to DIN 33893 are "notably below the current valid atmospheric limit of 2.0mg/cubic metre"

Acoustic power level according to EN ISO 3746 (Constants 4dB(A)

Idle 98.6dBA

Working 102.3dBA

In addition the manual states the required suction pressure and airflow for the saw unit, and shaper unit, so that proper extraction can be calculated to achieve compliance with the above values.

When was the last time you saw, noise, dust and extraction certification/requirements for a cabinet saw?

regards, Rod.

[Ryan Hellmer]

I am one of the bad examples, I have 2 antique tablesaws that long ago lost what little safety features they had. Hoping to upgrade to a sawstop someday, but in the interim, are there any recommended aftermarket safety addons, like a splitter that I could add? I've been lucky so far and I've developed really good safety habits, but statistically it's only a matter of time.

Ryan

[Mike Cruz]

I certainly won't rip you for using safe guards...

I have to say, though. I stopped the blade on my Ridgid a couple of times due to 2x's closing in on the blade really quickly. I suppose that's the advantage of a smaller HP motor on a TS...

[Van Huskey]

I am one of the bad examples, I have 2 antique tablesaws that long ago lost what little safety features they had. Hoping to upgrade to a sawstop someday, but in the interim, are there any recommended aftermarket safety addons, like a splitter that I could add? I've been lucky so far and I've developed really good safety habits, but statistically it's only a matter of time.

Ryan

Might want to look into a MJ splitter. An overarm guard would be nice but they are pricey.

[Gary Muto]

I use the MJ. Recently I was doing a miter cut, slowly as usual and noticed that my hand was in the wrong spot... in line with the blade. I was just starting the cut but realized that if I was in a hurry that I could have really hurt myself. A few days later the Shark Guard went on sale (maybe still 10% off) so I ordered one right away. I decided on the Shark guard since it has a dust collection port and has many good reviews. I wish I didn't wait this long.