View Full Version : Hand use router question ---
Herbert Mulqueen
07-11-2010, 8:41 PM
Assumption-----Suppose you are using an Akeda or a Kehoe or a MLCS steel dovetail jigs.
Would you use a 2 hp router like a Bosch 1618 or a Mil 5616 or move up to a 3 hp like the Mil 5625?
I heard that having a heavier router is prone to less vibration.
This would be for hand use only.
Thanks for any advice.
Herb
Scot Ferraro
07-11-2010, 8:51 PM
I would opt for a smaller router for handheld use, especially with a dovetail jog. These are lighter weight and easier to maneuver. The big routers are best for table use or when you need to hog off a lot of material or are working with solid surface. The mid-weight routers you mention offer plenty of stability for your intended use IMHO.
Scot
Will Overton
07-11-2010, 8:53 PM
I would opt for a smaller router for handheld use, especially with a dovetail jog. These are lighter weight and easier to maneuver. The big routers are best for table use or when you need to hog off a lot of material or are working with solid surface. The mid-weight routers you mention offer plenty of stability for your intended use IMHO.
Scot
I couldn't have said it better. I use a 1 3/4 hp 'D' handle PC with my Porter Cable dovetail jig.
glenn bradley
07-11-2010, 10:09 PM
I use a Mil 5615 for jigwork. Generally small bits are used so the lighter, lower powered, fixed speed motor does fine. YMMV.
Herbert Mulqueen
07-11-2010, 11:18 PM
Thank you so much--been thinking about this question all weekend.
The more one reads that more confused I confused.
Will order a Milwaukee this week.
Thanks again,
Herb
Ken Fitzgerald
07-11-2010, 11:24 PM
Herb,
If you can find one locally and handle it do so.
I am a fairly big guy with big hands. Some of the smaller routers and other power tools aren't comfortable in my hands as they might be for other folks.
pat warner
07-12-2010, 9:43 AM
Templet dovetailing is demanding business; the most abusive of all routing operations.
Full flute/depth cuts with skinny cutters cutting both sides and the floor of the pathway simultaneously, as bad as it gets. The big routers offset some of this abuse/heat/vibration with their mass. Moreover, there will be a little less cutter deflection and the big routers are better at sucking up the heat from this abuse. Heavy yes, but the router is well supported on the templet; doesn't need to be lifted all the time. What routers? Big plungers, including PC/DW, Milwaukee and Bosch.
Joe Scharle
07-12-2010, 9:49 AM
I like the feel of my 5625 when cutting on DT jigs. Oh heck, I like the feel of my 5625:D
Bill Huber
07-12-2010, 10:04 AM
I am with Pat on this one, I use my Bosch 1617 on my dovetail jig, you are really cutting a lot of wood, even with a box joint.
I have a Bosch Colt that I used once but it just did not feel good doing it. Plus with it I have to use a 1/4 bit which I don't like putting that much work on.
Van Huskey
07-12-2010, 11:10 AM
This is an interesting thread. I have always liked 1 3/4hp routers for DT work like the PC 690. I stopped dead in my tracks when I read Pat Warners post, he is one of the people who's opinion on routers I hold in extremely high regard. I had recently been considering what the best dedicated DT router would be and I felt like the Dewalt 616 was a strong contender, fixed, light and with a squat (thus not tippy) motor. Pat's advise seems to go in the opposite direction, some serious food for thought.
Herbert Mulqueen
07-12-2010, 11:22 AM
As to big hands----Nope just have regular size hands but 8 1/4 wrists.
I have been concerned about the abuse of the dovetailing operations.
With a Pat Warner extended/enlarge base plate things should go smoother/more control.
I see very little criticism of the Mil 5625 except maybe that it weighs 11.8 pounds while the Mil 5616 weights 8.8 pounds.
Cost is $ 175 for 2 1/2 hp versus about $ 295 new for 5625-20 3 1/2 hp
Of course the 5625-80 rebuilt is going around $ 225
Herb
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