Good water based laquer?

[Chad Wallace]

What is everyone out there using for a good, low VOC, water based laquer that is fairly inexpensive? I am currently shooting on Crystalac from Mcfeelys at $50 a gallon. I like the fact I do not have to spray a sanding sealer in front of the Crystalac. Is there something out there better?

Thanks in advance,

[Rob Cunningham]

I like EM6000 from Target Coatings.

[Jamie Buxton]

EM6000 too. Use discount code JL15 at checkout for a discount that will just about cover your shipping cost.

[Jim Becker]

EM6000 from Target Coatings is what I use...exclusively. Get on their mailing list for frequent discount codes that typically save you about 30% and often also include free shipping CONUS.

BTW, while the name "lacquer" may appear in the title of these water borne finishes, they are all acrylics. One of the things l really like about the Target Coatings EM6000 product is that they were able to get the "burn in" feature that solvent based lacquer has into it. It also lays down so nicely out of the gun.

BTW, don't make cost rule out a finish if it's the right product. An inferior product can very easily ruin your project, rendering "cheap" into "very expensive"...

[Steve Kohn]

I just finished a cherry crib. I used a Fuji HVLP, with Target EM6000 satin finish. Both were firsts for me.

Absolutely perfect coming out of the can, no mixing or thining required. Layed down beautifully, dried quickly. Was able to get 5 coats on the work in one day.

I'm a believer. No I wished I had designed my show with a built in spray booth.

[Chad Wallace]

Does it recommend using a sanding sealer in front of it?

[Clarence Miller]

Thanks Chad,

I was going to post a similar question this evening. So I will ask a related question, how well does the EM6000 adhere to project that are used with oil based stains?

[Jim Becker]

Does it recommend using a sanding sealer in front of it?

"Sanding sealer" is a bad word unless you're using solvent-based lacquers with their dedicated prep products. "Sealer"...maybe. If you're going on bare wood, you don't need a special product, IMHO. The first coat seals and you can lightly brush it with 320 paper to get ride of any grain raise and so forth. I do this routinely over birch ply, for example. If you've used a coloring agent, an oil, grain filler, etc., you'll want to seal with de-waxed shellac.

[Don Selke]

I use de-waxed shellac on everything I apply a finish too. It has never failed me as a first coat on bare wood, stained wood or man made materials. It is the first product off my shelf other then stains , dyes or toners. I use a 1lb or a 1 1/2lb cut depending on what I am applying as a final finish, or the material I am covering.

[Rob Cunningham]

Thanks Chad,

I was going to post a similar question this evening. So I will ask a related question, how well does the EM6000 adhere to project that are used with oil based stains?

I would suggest sealing the oil based stain with dewaxed shellac, then proceed with EM6000

[Joe Chritz]

EM6000 is self sealing so no special sealer is needed for any compatible stain / dye. The target stains (and most water base stains) as well as alcohol and water mix dyes are fine with no sealer.

Oil stains and BLO need some kind of sealer. Usually alcohol cut shellac but target makes a shellac finish that is supposed to be pretty good for that.

I find that acrylic water base finishes are kinda plain looking without something enhance the grain a bit. A seal coat of, well, seal coat goes under all my projects I finish with EM 6000 which is nearly all of them. Mostly for the reason of warming up the finish some.

Joe