bandsaw question

[Doug Carpenter]

I am new to using a bandsaw. I bought a Jet 14" bandsaw used. It is a 90's model.

I was trying to cut a slice of walnut on it about 1/4" thick and 4"tall. Soort of a resaw job but the peice was only 8 or nine inches long.

It was very hard to keep it against the fence. It kept wandering off course. I have to admit it is sort of what I expected from the saw but honestly it cuts way better than I thought. Am I missinf something? the blade I was using is a new rigid blade that came with the saw. It is 1/2" 4tpi blade.

I was frustrated to see the 17" polar bear at such a reasonable price. I bought my jet for $225 and put another $150 in it to tune it up. Seems like for twice the money I could get three times the saw.

am I asking too much of the saw or am I just doing something wrong.

Ultimately I will be cutting stock blanks to shape so I will cut 3" thick walnut pretty regularly.

I can always sell the saw but I don't think I'll be able to get what I have into it.

[Myk Rian]

Draw a line down the edge of a board. Resaw it without the fence, by adjusting the angle as you go. When you get the right angle that way, turn the saw off and hold the board in position. Adjust your fence to the angle the board is on.
It's also possible the blade is dull on one side.

[Will Overton]

Generally, the blades that come with any bandsaw should be retired. There are a number of decent blades out there, so do a little research. I use Timberwolf, manufactured by Suffolk Machinery. If you contact them, tell them what saw you have and what kind of cutting you are planning. They will recommend the correct blades. Other manufacturers will do th e same.

It is not unusual for even well tuned bandsaws to drift some. Most bandsaw fences have a way to adjust them to match the drift. Some resaw fences have a single point contact with the wood. You need to mark the length of the board and literally guide the wood through the blade.

You need to do a little reading (or search for videos) on using a bandsaw, because it's not like using a tablesaw. Just don't give up on that saw you bought, it can do the job.

[Thomas Canfield]

Doug,

Welcome to bandsawing. There are several books out there about getting the bandsaw set up correctly with the guides, tension, and how to do the resawing. Blades can take a "set" when doing curved cutting, and a resaw blade should be dedicated to only resawing. A narrower blade will handle curves better, especially for the tighter radius. The green wood blade sold at Highland Hardware is a thicker 3/8" wide 3 TPI that works well with green wood for cutting blanks, but is coarse for dry wood and does not give smooth finish. A circle cutting jig really helps to cut bowl blanks, but I also use cardboard circle templates attached with nail also- cardboard is easy to cut to shape and easily replaced if nicked. You did not mention if you have a riser, but cutting 3" wood is easily done with the standard 14" bandsaw 6" cutting height. Resawing logs really requires a sled to properly hold the log and keep it from twisting during the cut. Also, cross cutting round objects should have a "V" sled or clamp used to prevent rotating during the cutting. I'm sure you will get better advise.

























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[Van Huskey]

First, if the blade is sharp it should do the job, though there are better blades out there. Just for reference the best low priced blade would be the 1/2" Kerfmaster by Lenox from Spectrum supply, same basic blade as the Bladerunner from Iturra and Woodslicer from Highland just cheaper by a good amount. So if it does turn out to be the blade you have several sources for good low cost resaw blades.


Second, despite some that would suggest otherwise blades cause drift not the saw, I have seen mega-dollar Italian saws tuned within an inch of their life have blades drift. If not why on earth would Laguna make (and sell so many) Driftmaster fences. There are plenty of written and video tutorials setting a fence to compensate for blade drift on the internet.

Third, Just like Myk said this is a fine saw that will do the job. It is a clone of a design that has been a workhorse in shops and industry for over 75 years, there were huge numbers of them helping win WWII in industry throughout the US.

Finally, you may want to buy/build a tall featherboard to hold the board against the fence.

[Bill Huber]

I have the Jet 14" and it is a very good saw.

I would get a Timberwolf 1/2" 3tpi, that is what I use and it works very well on every thing that I have resawed.

When I install my bald I really watch the top wheel, I want the blade to be right on the crown. If the blade is to far to the outside of the wheel it will want to cut to the left. If it is back to far it will cut to the right.

[Doug Carpenter]

Thanks for the info. I was hoping it was the blade. It really does cut nice when I cut 3/4" material. recently I cut some brazillian cherry arcs with it and I could't believe how well it cut.

I just wasn't shure if I was asking too much of the saw.

fortunately when I cut a gunstock blank I am only rough cutting the shape. The duplicator will do the rest.

I will find out what blade is best suited for the job.

[Joseph Tarantino]

contact iturra design of you want to maximize the utility of your band saw. they don't have a wbsite, but can be reached here:

http://www.manta.com/c/mmc3znn/iturra-design

lou iturra has probably forgotten more than any of us will ever know about band saws and related equipment. and he is particularly knowledgeable regarding delta and jet band saws. he has yet to suggest a product to me that didn't materially improve the performance of my jet 18" BS. and try to get a copy of his catalog. if you can get one, you won't need to waste money on bandsaw books from teh likes of mark duginske or lonnie bird. good luck

[Lance Norris]

Finally, you may want to buy/build a tall featherboard to hold the board against the fence.

This is good advice. A featherboard definately helps. Van beat me to it.

[Howard Acheson]

First thing to do is to perform an alignment and buy a new blade. What you are describing is either the result of poor alignment or a damaged or old blade.

Let me also suggest that as a new user of a band saw, purchase either Lonnie Bird's Bandsaw Book or Mark Duginske's latest book on band saws. Either will tell you how to properly align the saw. It will also tell what blades to use for the various cuts and how to best use your saw.

[Curt Harms]

First thing to do is to perform an alignment and buy a new blade. What you are describing is either the result of poor alignment or a damaged or old blade.

Let me also suggest that as a new user of a band saw, purchase either Lonnie Bird's Bandsaw Book or Mark Duginske's latest book on band saws. Either will tell you how to properly align the saw. It will also tell what blades to use for the various cuts and how to best use your saw.

I agree with Howard, try a new "good" blade before spending too much time "upgrading" this or that. See if you can find a local sharpening shop that caters to local professionals. They may carry rolls of stock from Starrett, Lennox or the like. They may be able to weld you up a blade on the spot. The blades that come on new bandsaws are notoriously "uneven" in quality. I suspect the bands found in the borgs in various colored packages come from the same source. I've used Timberwolf, Lennox & Supercut blades with equally good results. I also had one Timberwolf that would resaw fine 'til one day it didn't. It cut fine but would not resaw a straight line no matter what, drifted like crazy. I realigned, checked for loose guides, tore my hair out. None of it helped. The blade looked fine but I tried a new one just in case. My problems magically cured themselves. I agree with Bill Huber, try adjusting the tracking to eliminate drift. Some say it works, some say it doesn't. Michael Fortune wrote an article in Fine Woodworking a few years ago about tuning your bandsaw to reduce or eliminate drift, I unfortunately didn't keep a copy of it.