Cutting Board Juice Groove Routing

[Bob Daniel]

Yikes...

I'm having difficulty routing the juice groove around the edge of some steak boards I'm making... I've ruined two so far... I'm using my hand held router with a round bit, with a collar that follows a stuck-on hardboard template.

I used this exact setup last year, and while I did have some trouble, I eventually made it work... this time, the bit just wants to wander off and not follow the template...

Should I be taking smaller bites in multiple passes?

Last time, I made only a very shallow groove, then decided to leave it, so as not to wreck it. This time, I wanted a deeper groove, but maybe I'm taking too much, which is causing a pulling away from the template?

Is this even the preferred approach? I like to use the router table when I can, but this seemed like it should be a hand-held technique, and my hand-held routing skills are, shall we say, a work in progress...

Any advice appreciated, cheers...

Bob.

[Aaron Wingert]

I'd try taking smaller bites as far as the depth of cut. The router should be less prone to walking that way. Not to mention you'll be less prone to tearout and chatter if you take small bites.

[Philip Rodriquez]

The router will pull for 2 reasons.

1 - too big of a bite. Take small passes
2 - Going in the wrong direction (clockwise). Go the other way!

[glenn bradley]

+1 with Philip.

[Bob Daniel]

2 - Going in the wrong direction (clockwise). Go the other way!


Interesting!

My little cheat sheet says "inside=clockwise, outside = counter clockwise" but since the bit here is embedded in the wood, it seems like it's NEITHER inside nor outside... so I just guessed, and went clockwise...

I'll try counter clockwise next time...

And yes, a smaller bite, and take two passes... thanks folks!

[Bill Huber]

I think everyone has you covered, shallow cuts will be the biggest help.

When I do it it takes me 3 passes minimum to cut the groove. I make the cut in 2 parts, start at the upper right about 1/3 of the way from the right side and cut counterclockwise to the lower left side about 1/3 from the left side.
Then I turn the board 180 and do it again. I don't get burns if I do it that way.

http://www.pbase.com/wlhuber/image/86916112

[Bob Daniel]

Thanks!! I did a test using a shallower depth, and going counter clockwise, and I seem to have it almost under control... I think I'll go shallower still, and stop halfway as you suggest, if only to take a breath.... but why would that reduce burning?

[Bill Huber]

Thanks!! I did a test using a shallower depth, and going counter clockwise, and I seem to have it almost under control... I think I'll go shallower still, and stop halfway as you suggest, if only to take a breath.... but why would that reduce burning?

With me I would not cut as good and make the corners slower when I started to push the router. I would get burns on the lower right corner just about every time.

Once I started doing it in 2 passes things went a lot better and smoother. It just the way I did it but I am sure that most people can handle a router much better them me.

[David Cefai]

why would that reduce burning? I'm guessing here, but with a shallower cut you're generating less heat and it can "escape" better into the bulk of the bit.

[Moshe Eshel]

1. Shallower cuts - multiple cuts to achieve depth (reduces teraout, runout and burnout :D:D:D)
2. direction of routing is important (as above)
3. Make sure you clamp everything tight
4. Make a more limiting template as well (a template for limiting router movement on both unwanted sides - a template that allows the router to move ONLY along the planned cut path. This can help if you feel your control of the tool is not too good (I use this all the time as well as stop blocks so that I not overcut on a straight line.