Best blade for resawing on 14" bandsaw.

[robert raess]

I have a 14" Delta bandsaw with riser block, that allows 105" blade.I resaw found wood, some wet some dry..what are your suggestions? thanks rob

[Van Huskey]

I would recommend the Lenox Kerfmaster from Spectrum supply, basically the same blade as the Woodslicer from Highland and Bladerunner from Iturra just cheaper. I would only recommend them for dry wood though due to the minamal set, I don't have any personal experience with green wood blades.

[Pete Bradley]

I typically use a 1/2"X3TPI from Suffolk. 4 TPI gives me slightly better quality in dry wood and is passable for the occasional cut in green wood also.

Don't let anyone tell you the old "buy the widest band your saw will take" story, you'll only be disappointed.

Pete

[Van Huskey]

Don't let anyone tell you the old "buy the widest band your saw will take" story, you'll only be disappointed.

Pete


Very true I forgot to address that. I have yet to see a 14" cast Delta "clone" that can tension a 3/4" blade properly. A 1/2" blade is the way to go unless you get a thin blade ( under .02") then a 5/8" can be gotten to adequate tension.

[Myk Rian]

14" Delta w/riser. 1/2" 3tpi Timberwolf. I use the flutter method to tension it.

[robert raess]

When you say flutter do you mean plucking it like a guitar...and if so would that be A or A#? thanks rob

[Stan Mitchell]

When you say flutter do you mean plucking it like a guitarFrom Suffolk Machinery

While the machine is running:

Stand at the head of the machine, with your hand on the turn screw tensioner and your eyes on the band saw blade. Very slowly start detensioning by half turns at a time, keeping your eyes on the band saw blade. The object is to bring the tension of the blade down to a point that the blade starts to flutter. TAKE YOUR TIME

When you see the band start to flutter, you have hit ground "ZERO". Now start ADDING quarter turns of tension, SLOWLY, until the band stops fluttering and is running stable again. At this point ADD one-eight to one-quarter turn of tension.

You have now tensioned our blade correctly. Shut off the machine and put your guides back in place. You are now ready to start sawing.

[george wilson]

I know I'm crazy,but I do everything with a 1/4",6 tooth skip tooth Lennox or Starrett blade. I'm not making furniture,though. However,I've resawed a lot of 9" thick rosewood with them,and once,a very accurate 1/16" 12" thick piece of Cuban mahogany veneer for the furniture conservation shop. I mean ebony hard Cuban mahogany,too.

If you know how to use a bandsaw,you can do it.

[Charles Bender]

I'm with George on this. I actually do make a lot of furniture and 90% of the time I have a 1/4" six tooth skip Lenox blade on my saw. Works like a charm. I have been messing with the Timber Wolf blades from PSWood lately and like them for general cutting but have not tried them for resawing yet. They have a smoother cut and feel than the lenox blades but they're twice the price.

[Kent A Bathurst]

If you want the "best-best" (as opposed to "affordable-best") then the Lenox 1/2" Trimaster is it. There have been (and likely will be) some comments that my (and your) Delta w/ riser can't properly tension that blade, but I checked into this with via a coupla expert resources and they disagreed.

No input on performance/suitability for green wood. Can't see why not, but no experience on that one.

Full disclosure - I have the Trimaster only because I was able to get a jaw-dropping-once-in-a-lifetime deal on one. However, by the time I get around to wearing this one out, I may well pony up for a replacement - quality of cut and lifespan make it a sound investment IMO, if you can get past the initial $GULP factor.

[David Winer]

From Suffolk Machinery

You have now tensioned our blade correctly. Shut off the machine and put your guides back in place. You are now ready to start sawing.
Is this advice applicable in the general case, i.e., for blades from other than Suffolk Machinery and for different sizes"?

[Van Huskey]

If you want the "best-best" (as opposed to "affordable-best") then the Lenox 1/2" Trimaster is it. There have been (and likely will be) some comments that my (and your) Delta w/ riser can't properly tension that blade, but I checked into this with via a coupla expert resources and they disagreed.

.


I haven't seen anyone argue a cast clone can't tension a 1/2" Trimaster but someone probably has. The 1/2" TM is a thin carbide blade, same thickness as a Woodslicer but does need more tension, up around 25,000 PSI. Set close to the 3/4" register on the saw it should be just about right. The bigger issue is work hardening the blade due to the small wheels, all that will do is possibly shorten the life of the blade, it may break before it is dull. But there again the 1/2" TM is a thin blade thus more flexible and less prone to work harden even on 14" wheels. The only issue is, I do not think Lenox makes a variable pitch TM in 1/2" so depending on the cut depth and stock you may actually get a better quality cut with one of the variable tooth carbon resaw blades, but they certainly will not last nearly as long, the TM should outlast the carbon blade well over 10 times.

A 105" 1/2" TM would run about $140.

[Myk Rian]

Is this advice applicable in the general case, i.e., for blades from other than Suffolk Machinery and for different sizes"?
Yes. I use it for all my blades.

[Paul Ryan]

Laguna 5/8" sheer force, there is no comparison.