Mortise chopping question

[Tom Henderson2]

I'm a mortise & tenon newb.

I've chopped a handful of mortises, using the chop-then-lever-out-the-waste technique. Generally, I've been fairly happy with the results.

Now I need to chop a few that are pretty short, but also pretty deep.

Specifically, 1/4" wide, 3/4 long and 1" deep. Material is Cherry.

So those dimensions don't leave a lot of room for levering the waste or getting in to clean up the bottom.

Is there a special technique when chopping fairly short but deep mortices?

I know I could drill or rout these, but I'd like to stay with chisels if possible as the whole point of this project is to develop my hand-cut M&T skills.

FWIW this is the Stickley plant stand from the Winter 2008 Woodworking Magazine.

Thanks in advance.

-TH

[Steve Dallas]

I'm a mortise & tenon newb.

I've chopped a handful of mortises, using the chop-then-lever-out-the-waste technique. Generally, I've been fairly happy with the results.

Now I need to chop a few that are pretty short, but also pretty deep.

Specifically, 1/4" wide, 3/4 long and 1" deep. Material is Cherry.

So those dimensions don't leave a lot of room for levering the waste or getting in to clean up the bottom.

Is there a special technique when chopping fairly short but deep mortices?

I know I could drill or rout these, but I'd like to stay with chisels if possible as the whole point of this project is to develop my hand-cut M&T skills.

FWIW this is the Stickley plant stand from the Winter 2008 Woodworking Magazine.

Thanks in advance.

-TH

Chopping an ever enlarging V, starting in the middle, works well for me on mortises with dimension similar to yours. Having sash mortise chisels also makes these a little more comfy, IMO. Not the place for a pig sticker, though anything can be made to work. There is always a reason for the shape and size of a given tool. The mortise you describe is very similar to those found in old window sash, hence the "sash mortise chisel." Or, perhaps I'm rewriting history. Oh well, works for me....

[harry strasil]

don't chop to the end line till the last thing, so that the process of levering out the waste doesn't wreck the crisp ends. Also a small wire pic with a short sharp 90° bent end works well for "picking out the waste, or just a sharp awl or ice pick to stick the waste and lift it out" works. I also keep a cheap plastic basting(cooking) syringe thing to blow the waste out with.

[Derek Cohen]

I'd drill and pare the mortice. That's how I did this on the past weekend.

Marked out ....

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/Sideboard-Buildingtheframe_html_m72a6a19f.jpg

A little help from my Stanley #59 dowel jig ..

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/Sideboard-Buildingtheframe_html_m41624c0e.jpg

Drilled and then pared the walls ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/Sideboard-Buildingtheframe_html_3eaad070.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/Sideboard-Buildingtheframe.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Koepke]

There is also what is called a lock mortice chisel. They are made for short deep mortices in drawers and doors in which a lock could be installed.

Here is one example:

155298

Some have a less pronounced curvature and some more.

jim

[Pam Niedermayer]

There are 3 tools used in shoji making for clearing the mortises, which are very small. Here are samples from Hida. I love these little tools, so much so that I also use them in large mortises.

Pam