Poplar as Edge-Banding???

[Glen Blanchard]

I will be building some frameless cabinets for my shop soon and could use some guidance. I will be using birch ply and plan on applying a coat of poly when complete. I am trying to decide on the edge banding material. I am leaning towards poplar due to its price, but am open to suggestions. My concerns are that poplar is not the most attractive wood (but these are just shop cabinets, so it's not THAT big of a deal, but I would like them to look decent when done) and poplar is relatively soft (providing less protection to the edges of the ply than a harder wood).

Would I be making a mistake using poplar (have never really used it before)?

[Dan T Jones]

While it sometimes has a green color it is usually pretty close to birch and at least does not clash. Poplar has become one of my favorite woods and I do use it for edge banding all the time. Poplar is strong and light and machines very well. Alot of the time I am painting over so it is not an issue at all.

Dan

[Henry Ambrose]

Maple would be a better choice. Its harder and generally more uniform in color than poplar.

[Gene Howe]

I am in the midst of finishing a bunch of shop cabinets of birch with poplar edge banding on the doors and drawer fronts. I even banded the rails and stiles, too.
It appears to match well, it's very easy to work and it's cheap.
I managed to find some in my stash that's fairly free of the green grain.
I don't know yet how it will look when the stain is applied.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Glenn, I made shop cabinets from Baltic birch and I used birch to make the edging.

The poplar I had was either whiter or greener (in colour) than the plywood.

Regards, Rod.

[Prashun Patel]

I vote for birch or maple on the face frames. I think it'll look and hold up better.

[Callan Campbell]

Glen, like everyone else posted, you run into the green color of poplar in a board, just when you don't need it. I have matched poplar edging to some Baltic Birch plywood, came out great, but I was cutting around the board so I didn't end up with the green. Maple or birch won't have that issue for you, but command a higher price than poplar. Your choice:D:)

[Glen Blanchard]

Glen, like everyone else posted, you run into the green color of poplar in a board, just when you don't need it. I have matched poplar edging to some Baltic Birch plywood, came out great, but I was cutting around the board so I didn't end up with the green. Maple or birch won't have that issue for you, but command a higher price than poplar. Your choice:D:)

For paint grade work of course that's not an issue, but I don't really want to paint these things. Sounds like I will be happier with maple.

Thanks guys.

[david brum]

If you have a hardwood specialist in your area, you might look at beech. It is nearly identical in appearace to birch and comparable to poplar in price (at least in my area). It's pretty hard as well.

[Andrew Nemeth]

How about birch edgebanding? I prefer the heat set over the pressure set. If you buy a 100' or 250' roll from a cabinet supply shop it is very affordable. It's easy enough to apply with a household iron (I wouldn't recomend letting your wife see you do this).

[glenn bradley]

Poplar is pretty soft; give it a poke with your thumbnail. Edgeband may or may not be in a place exposed to bumps and bangs. In the shop I would go for a harder wood. That being said, I have shop drawer units made from MDF and they have held up fine. The edges are reasonably protected by location though so, think about your location and what they will be exposed to and judge from there.

[Jim Becker]

I really don't understand why the myth that "poplar isn't very attractive" continues. While there are some boards with mineral staining that really are not the best choice for many projects, Tuplip/Yellow Poplar is a beautiful species to work with. Further, with the use of water soluble dyes, it can mimic other close-grained woods like maple and cherry quite easily. I build a lot with poplar...and have another 1500 bd ft drying "as we speak".

Some folks are concerned that fresh-cut poplar's heartwood has a greenish cast. It does...but it turns to a very nice light brown with oxidation and UV exposure.

That all said, it's a great choice for edging your shop cabinets. It's relatively color compatible with your birch plywood, too, especially after the above mentioned oxidation and UV exposure to both species.

[Frank Drew]

I really don't understand why the myth that "poplar isn't very attractive" continues. Tuplip/Yellow Poplar is a beautiful species to work with. Further, with the use of water soluble dyes, it can mimic other close-grained woods like maple and cherry quite easily.

Since joining this board, I've found that I almost always agree with Jim.

Except about poplar :D.


How about birch edgebanding? I prefer the heat set over the pressure set. If you buy a 100' or 250' roll from a cabinet supply shop it is very affordable. It's easy enough to apply with a household iron (I wouldn't recomend letting your wife see you do this). Perhaps I'm wrong, but I think Glen wants solid edge banding, not veneer.

[Gary Muto]

I agree. Any time I have to match or at least get close to some dark stained furniture I feel that using a more expensive wood is pointless. I've only experimented with dies on two projects and it worked well with Poplar. I found that the General Finishes stains, especially gel stains work well with this wood.

[Erik Christensen]

what jim said -

I have had great success with both dye & stain on popular & in most cases had a better looking finished product with dye. But with either dye or stain and a clear topcoat what natural green tint was in the raw wood is no longer noticeable.

I did a dining table leaf for a buddy recently - he got some poplar with noticeable green heartwood to make it with. By the time we got done matching the medium mahogany stain of the table and finishing it, the poplar leaf looked great - so good the his wife liked to poplar leaf better that the rest of the table top.

I agree it is not the hardest wood & might not be suitable in some applications because of that, but I would never not use it because of aesthetics.

[Van Huskey]

+2 what Jim said. I think many look down on polar due to its price but it is a very useful wood and certainly merits usage. For the OPs use I think it is perfect.

[Frank Drew]

+2 what Jim said. I think many look down on polar due to its price but it is a very useful wood and certainly merits usage. For the OPs use I think it is perfect.

I don't think it's reverse snobism, Van, poplar just doesn't strike everyone as particularly attractive. Do those who like it really think it's as attractive as good quality cherry, walnut, mahogany? Really?

I agree, of course, that it would be a good choice for the proposed use.

[Anthony Anderson]

I would use the maple. In the overall scheme of things, it is not that much additional cost. Also, if you use the poplar, and are not happy with it, your attention will be drawn to the poplar edge banding every time you enter the shop, and you will think to yourself "man, I wish I would have used the maple...)". If you use the maple, when you notice the cabinets, you will be content/satisfied that you paid the extra for the maple. Just my thoughts.

Bill