Burning mitres on TS-Help!

[Clisby Clark]

First all the details: General 650 (Left tilt) saw, WW II blade, Incra 1000SE gauge with wooden subfence.

I was making some mitred boxes using 1/2 inch maple approx 4 inches wide. I figured I'd get perfect end mitres using the Incra but was disappointed to see significant burning on the cuts.

What should I be looking for as the possible culprit? Thanks for the help!

[Tim Lawson]

Check that the blade is clean. (I find simple green and an acid brush great to get all the gunk off the blade). Second I'd experiment with your feed rate - you might be going too slow.

Good luck.

Tim

[Bill Rogers]

Clisby,

I had a similar problem a while back. I contacted Incra and they suggested that I square my miter gauge to the saw blade. I did that but my problem turned out to be that my miter slot wasn't square to the saw blade.
Once I corrected the latter problem, I was able to get perfect burn free miters.
Below you will see what Incra sent to me.

Bill

[glenn bradley]

I believe Bill has hit on it but, we should confirm you are talking about long mitered crosscuts to form the mitered corner where your box sides meet, yes?

155254

You would not be the first to carefully align your blade to to the miter slot at 90* only to find you get burning or toothmarks when cutting bevels.

Use whatever method you used to set the blade to the miter slot and confirm that you are good at 90*. If not, let's go ahead and fix that. Now bevel the blade to 45* and re-check. If the alignment varies I am betting you will find this to be the source of your problem.

Correcting this alignment on a cabinet mounted trunnion saw is done by shimming (or de-shimming [is that a word?]) the table at the mounting bolts. I had stopped at "good enough" when I originally setup my saw. This worked for me for awhile as I didn't do much in the way of mitered cuts. Once I started getting requests for small gift boxes and such, the issue became more important to me (funny how that goes).

I pulled the fence and wings and did a full adjustment on the saw and it has greatly increased how much I enjoy using my saw. while I was at it I positioned the table to allow as much opening on the nut side of the arbor as was reasonable. This makes getting my hand in there for blade changes easier. I then changed out my ZCI's and throat plates on my sleds and I was good to go.

[Prashun Patel]

I'm guessing minor misalignment with the fence or slot to the blade.

How are you securing the board to the incra fence? I use a piece of 150gt sandpaper to help it be less slippy.

[john bateman]

Whenever I use my Ridge TS2000 blade, which is similar to your WWII, the blade has a tendency to pull the stock toward the blade and causes some burning during crosscuts. I also use the Incra 1000se, like you are.

If your blade alignment turns out to be OK, you can try clamping the stock to the miter fence. Or glue some sandpaper to the sub-fence to prevent your stock from shifting during the cut.

For some reason, I only have this problem with that one blade. My Freud and Tenryu blades don't do this.

[Jamie Buxton]

Here's a thread about fixing that -- http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=15546