How do you attach desktop to base cabinets?

[scott vroom]

I'm building a 12' x 28" x 1-1/4" solid wood desktop that will rest on 42" wide base cabinets at both ends. I was going to screw up through corner braces into the top, without glue to allow for some movement. Is there special corner brace hardware that would work better than wood corner bracing? Should I be attaching somewhere other than through the corner bracing? The base cabinets will have drawers, I'm envisioning difficulties accessing the rear corner braces through the face frame door rails.

How do you guys do this?

[Jay Allen]

Figure 8 fasteners?

[scott vroom]

I'd countersink the figure 8 fastener into the top of the corner braces and then set the top in place? Does this sound correct?

[Jamie Buxton]

I like building the base cabinets with a full top. This does eat a piece of plywood, but it makes the base cabinet easier to square up in the shop, and easier to level as you install it. It also gives you an easy way to fasten the top down: you just screw up anyplace through the base cabinet top. I'd screw it firmly near the front. At the rear, you can use bigger clearance holes through the base cabinet top, and fender washers on the screws.

You don't have to be super-rigorous in screwing the top to the base cabinets. Gravity is going to help you a lot. That top is going to weigh at least a hundred pounds, so it is going to want to sit right where it is.

[greg leftwich]

figure 8`s are great but if i already have corner braces i just drill an oversized hole (1/4-5/16 ) and use a screw with a large washer like a fender washer. this will allow for plenty of movement.

[scott vroom]

figure 8`s are great but if i already have corner braces i just drill an oversized hole (1/4-5/16 ) and use a screw with a large washer like a fender washer. this will allow for plenty of movement.

I imagine that you would only snug up the screws, to allow for movement? As Jaime pointed out, gravity will work in my favor with a 100lb top.

[greg leftwich]

yeah, just snug it up. i also like to use a washer head type screw like pocket hole screws not a flat head screw which is made to countersink.

[Will Overton]

Scott,

I asked myself the same question when building the desk I posted in your other thread. So while I thought about it I slid the tops in place, using the thicker bullnose pushed against the top rail. Your post today reminded me that I never did get around to fastening it. Nothing has moved in several months of daily use.

Since it isn't something you'll be moving, you could easily get away with screws through the corner braces in the front only, just to prevent it moving if someone bangs into it. . No worries about expansion that way.

[Joe Chritz]

Solid top needs expansion room built in. Either L clips or figure 8 fasteners work well.

I like the figure 8's because they are faster but when I forget and don't have any I just make a little L clip and fasten it with them.

Basically just notch to fit into a kerf in the side and a single screw up into the top.

Edit: If you are making your own corner blocks you can also use a slot instead of a hole and attach through those with a washer head screw.

Joe

[scott vroom]

Great input...thanks to all. This forum is incredibly helpful....maybe some day I'll have the experience to help others :o

Will, your comment really hits home that the top is so heavy that gravity is going to do most of the work.

[Tony Bilello]

I like building the base cabinets with a full top........ it makes the base cabinet easier to square up and easier to level..... you just screw up anyplace through the base cabinet top.
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+1 I agree 100%