Need some stair help.

[Darrell Bade]

Working on the base in my basement and then I am down to the stairs. Having trouble figuring out what I need and I cannot seem to find anything to look at.

Right now the stairs are just a 2" (x10" I think) framing lumber.

The stairs are going to be carpeted.

I am going to put an oak skirt board on the wall at the sides. Also need treads and risers. All the treads and risers I look at are very expensive and made to be stained. I do not need that. Should I be looking at treads and risers made of MDF? I have seen those a few places. I was also wondering what is wrong with the 2" framing lumber if carpet is going to be used. I assume you need a bullnose on the tread even with carpet? Suppose I could put the bullnose on it.

Since the stairs are carpeted, I need to find an inexpensive option that will get the job done.

[Jim Andrew]

If you are covering the treads with carpet, 2x lumber is fine. You want about 1" of overhang over the riser. You can run a roundover router bit over the upper edge to lessen the wear on the carpet. I used to use 1x8 risers and hold them up to top of face of stairjack, nail them with 8d nails, and when finished would go under the stair and nail the risers to the treads from back side.

[Dan Friedrichs]

(disclaimer: not a stair expert)

I've seen treads made of particle board that come pre-bullnosed. If nothing else, there is nothing wrong with making your own from 2x lumber. Just put a bullnose on the front.

Also, don't skimp on glue and screws. PL400 subfloor construction adhesive should be used on EVERY surface that touches another surface. Screw everything together with way more screws than you think are necessary. These two steps will keep the stairs firm and squeak-free for decades to come. Trying to get away with thin risers and nails will result in squeaky stairs before you even get the carpet on them.

[Paul Ryan]

Darrel,

I did some stairs in my home about 4 years ago now. There are carpeted as well, I just used the particle board treads that menards sold. After I figured my time into cutting and planning 2x's and putting bull nose on it didn't make sense to make my own. They have held up just fine and those stairs get used almost every time you go into our house. 1 other advice if you are doing stair for a whole 10ft level change (14-15 steps) I suggest using 3-2x12's by the time you cut out your treads you don't have much material left. And if you ever move anything heavy down those steps you will be happy you have the extra capacity. Good luck

[greg leftwich]

2 x 10`s are probably not wide enough for treads. you will need at least an inch of overhang. i usually give them 1 1/4. you can buy pine stair tread in long lengths (12-14 foot) pretty inexpensive. you will probably have to go to a real lumber supply for that not home depot or lowes. you can use 1x8`s for risers or rip them from plywood.

[bill mullin]

Working on the base in my basement and then I am down to the stairs. Having trouble figuring out what I need and I cannot seem to find anything to look at.

Right now the stairs are just a 2" (x10" I think) framing lumber.

The stairs are going to be carpeted.

I am going to put an oak skirt board on the wall at the sides. Also need treads and risers. All the treads and risers I look at are very expensive and made to be stained. I do not need that. Should I be looking at treads and risers made of MDF? I have seen those a few places. I was also wondering what is wrong with the 2" framing lumber if carpet is going to be used. I assume you need a bullnose on the tread even with carpet? Suppose I could put the bullnose on it.

Since the stairs are carpeted, I need to find an inexpensive option that will get the job done.

Darrel,
If your stair was originally built with 2x treads, you might want to use the same to replace it. If you use something 1" or 1 1/8", your top and bottom rise will change.
Risers can be out of almost any 1x material.
As long as you use plenty of construction glue, nails will be fine. Screws are not necessary.
Since you are using carpet, leave at least 1/8 " clearance between the riser/treads, and the skirt board. Contrary to popular belief, the stair stringer flexing and the treads/risers rubbing on the skirts are where most squeaks occur, at least in my experience.

[Steven Green]

I can buy clear southern yellow pine 2x12 already bullnosed locally. They make world class stair treads. If you're using stringers to frame the stairs all you need is some decent plywood or even No. 2 1x8 to make the kick.

[rick sawyers]

I've built a dozen staircases and the last one I helped with for a friend of mine who was working on a commercial building--a community center sort of thing--and the code called for no bull-nose on the staircase. I figured it was because it was just another thing to trip on.
So, no, you don't need a bullnose on your treads and if your staircase is less than 40 inches wide you only need three stringers. The treads can easily be cheap 2x stock (two 2x6 for example). Put on risers if you want, 3/4" anything. Roll down the carpet, tack it down, and you're good to go. Walk all over it.

[Tom Hammond]

Did I read... using particle board (OSB?) or MDF as TREADS???

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHH !!!!!!!!!!!