Scott Parks
12-02-2004, 1:58 PM
Okay, this is only minor for now, because I haven't had enough time to play with it and dial in the new saw... So don't get me wrong, I already love the saw as it is a HUGE improvement over the CMan.... But anyway,
1. It has a slight vibration, so it doesn't pass the nickel test.:(
2. Even with the new Forrest blade, (also a 5" blade stabilizer) it doesn't make a smooth cut, it leaves the circular grooves.:(
Is this saw supposed to pass the nickel test? Maybe I didn't measure things accurately on setup...
A little history of what I've done... I have a dial guage mounted to an oak strip that doesn't quite fit snug into the miter slot, so my measurements may not quite be acurate, but...
Using the new WWII blade, I measured the runout at .001". Sliding my dial guage sloppily down the miter slot, the blade varies from leading edge to middle by about .004", but back to the same measurement by the trailing edge. Best I can tell, the blade is parralel to the slot. So, maybe the blade is slightly bowed? Should I take off the stabilizer? I aligned the fence to the mitre slot with the same gauge.
Now for the vibration problem. When I got the saw out of the box and on to the floor, it was slightly teetering on the floor. But when I got the wings mounted it became stable. Maybe I need to shim it slightly. Also, when turning the blade arbor by hand, say 1/3 turn, it will rotate back to the position that it was previously rested at. Is this normal? Maybe a bearing has a flat spot or something, thus causing the vibration?
I'm out of town now and won't get a chance to play with it or trouble shoot until Monday. But it has been bugging me. Maybe I need to put on better belts and tune the fence better? Any ideas? Maybe I'm asking for too much perfection? Help! Thanks!
1. It has a slight vibration, so it doesn't pass the nickel test.:(
2. Even with the new Forrest blade, (also a 5" blade stabilizer) it doesn't make a smooth cut, it leaves the circular grooves.:(
Is this saw supposed to pass the nickel test? Maybe I didn't measure things accurately on setup...
A little history of what I've done... I have a dial guage mounted to an oak strip that doesn't quite fit snug into the miter slot, so my measurements may not quite be acurate, but...
Using the new WWII blade, I measured the runout at .001". Sliding my dial guage sloppily down the miter slot, the blade varies from leading edge to middle by about .004", but back to the same measurement by the trailing edge. Best I can tell, the blade is parralel to the slot. So, maybe the blade is slightly bowed? Should I take off the stabilizer? I aligned the fence to the mitre slot with the same gauge.
Now for the vibration problem. When I got the saw out of the box and on to the floor, it was slightly teetering on the floor. But when I got the wings mounted it became stable. Maybe I need to shim it slightly. Also, when turning the blade arbor by hand, say 1/3 turn, it will rotate back to the position that it was previously rested at. Is this normal? Maybe a bearing has a flat spot or something, thus causing the vibration?
I'm out of town now and won't get a chance to play with it or trouble shoot until Monday. But it has been bugging me. Maybe I need to put on better belts and tune the fence better? Any ideas? Maybe I'm asking for too much perfection? Help! Thanks!