New grizz 1023 TS sqwuak....

[Scott Parks]

Okay, this is only minor for now, because I haven't had enough time to play with it and dial in the new saw... So don't get me wrong, I already love the saw as it is a HUGE improvement over the CMan.... But anyway,

1. It has a slight vibration, so it doesn't pass the nickel test.:(
2. Even with the new Forrest blade, (also a 5" blade stabilizer) it doesn't make a smooth cut, it leaves the circular grooves.:(

Is this saw supposed to pass the nickel test? Maybe I didn't measure things accurately on setup...

A little history of what I've done... I have a dial guage mounted to an oak strip that doesn't quite fit snug into the miter slot, so my measurements may not quite be acurate, but...

Using the new WWII blade, I measured the runout at .001". Sliding my dial guage sloppily down the miter slot, the blade varies from leading edge to middle by about .004", but back to the same measurement by the trailing edge. Best I can tell, the blade is parralel to the slot. So, maybe the blade is slightly bowed? Should I take off the stabilizer? I aligned the fence to the mitre slot with the same gauge.

Now for the vibration problem. When I got the saw out of the box and on to the floor, it was slightly teetering on the floor. But when I got the wings mounted it became stable. Maybe I need to shim it slightly. Also, when turning the blade arbor by hand, say 1/3 turn, it will rotate back to the position that it was previously rested at. Is this normal? Maybe a bearing has a flat spot or something, thus causing the vibration?

I'm out of town now and won't get a chance to play with it or trouble shoot until Monday. But it has been bugging me. Maybe I need to put on better belts and tune the fence better? Any ideas? Maybe I'm asking for too much perfection? Help! Thanks!

[Scott Coffelt]

Unless you have a thin kerf, no need for the stabilizer.

I'ds say if you have play in the measuring device then there is no accuracy, so you really can't rely on it.

My saw is very, very smooth. Try another blade for giggles to see if you get the same vibration.

For sure, call Grizzly CS and run threw with them.

[Dan Stuewe]

Here's a shot...

try running without the blade to see if it is smoother or the same. This could pinpoint where the vibration is coming from.

The arbor movement may be due to the belts (assuming they are on the arbor when you are testing). They may have a set.

I'm guessing that any wobble that putting the wings on "fixes" could show up once the motor with blade is fired up. Main problem is that I'm not sure how to shim something that seems solid.

Let us know how things go. "Someday my 1023 will come"

[David Dixson]

Scott,

Having worked in technical support in the past, I learned that generally the tech. support guys see the same problems out of the same items over and over again, so they're very familiar with the necessary fixes for most problems.

One of the good (and bad) things about ISO 2001 and other new manufacturing proesses is that the manufacturing process is very consistent, so a flaw that turns up in one manufactured item tends to turn up in several hundred all at the same time. The bad part is there's a lot of it. The good part is, because it's been seen before, the tech. support guys generally know how to fix it instantly and fairly easily.

My recommendation is to give Grizzly Technical Support a call and see if they can help you. My suspicion is most times they can and will.

Dave

[George Summers]

First, get rid of the play in the miter/gauge bar you are using. Second, you measure to A TOOTH in the front and then rotate the blade and measure to the SAME TOOTH in the rear. With a tight miter bar your measurement should be exactly the same or the slot is not parallel to the blade. This is probably the culprit causing the blade marks on your board. So far as the blade rotating back a little when rotated forward, thats about normal, the belt tension and motor is the major reason and that shouldn't worry you. Check your belts, does one or more have a 'set' in it? This can cause vibration.

George

[Clint deal]

Scott, I bought the 1023sl left tilt and installed it about a month ago. I'm very satisfied with mine. I'd try it without the stablizer especially if it's the type with the o-ring that presses against the blade. maybe it is bowing or cupping the blade?
As for the vibration mine was the same way when I first turned it on. It had what we used to call when aligning equiptment, a soft foot. One area that did'nt have enough support under it. I shimmed it up and checked around the base real good and now it passes the nickle test with flying colors. I'm using a 32 tooth Freud Glue line rip blade and the cuts are glass smooth in Maple and Oak.
I also noticed that if I turn the blade by hand it will roll back a certain amount. I think it's just the nature of the beast.
I am using a home made jig to align my fence and table. it consists of the miter gauge with a dial indicator mounted 90 degrees from the slot. It works OK. The miter bar has the adjustments to allow a tight fit. I can take it off quikly if I need it but I have an aftermarket miter gauge so should'nt need to.

Clint