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Josh Bowman
07-02-2010, 7:29 PM
Well in my effort to learn, I tried a few bowls today. 2 were natural edged. The first one I was almost done and just wanted to make the sides a little thinner.....so just one more cut....bam, It cracked the side. So later I turned another, not great but got it kind of thin. The bark went flying off of it though. I really was surprised the bark lasted as long as it did. This wood had been down about a year, not on the ground, but not fresh. This wood is kind of mildewed. Now for my question of the day. How many of you use filters/masks over you nose and mouth when you turn. And what kind is good enough? A mentor of mine has the Triton helmet/power filter rig, but I also noted he didn't use it the day I was there and turned a green bowl. He said he only used it when the shop got dusty.
I've done flat work for ages and only used a good paper or cloth mask, like doctors use. The helmet seems kind of awkward, hot and uncomfortable. But I really don't know anything about them.
Oh....as usual be critical of my turning. Thanks

Dennis Ford
07-02-2010, 7:39 PM
I just use the paper type masks and rarely even those since I installed a cyclone type dust collector.
The bowl is made of very pretty wood, it looks like you stopped when the bark came off. I think you should finish turning it. A natural edge bowl does not have to have bark. Darken the natural edge with your choice of burning, stain or felt tip marker.

Bernie Weishapl
07-02-2010, 8:10 PM
Really nice looking bowl. When the bark comes off my NE bowls I use a black magic marker to blacken the edge. Highlights it nicely.

David E Keller
07-02-2010, 8:41 PM
I agree with Dennis... You ought to go ahead and finish the piece.

Looking forward to seeing the end result. That spalting will be really interesting when you get it sanded and get a coat of oil on it.

Jack Gaskins
07-02-2010, 9:00 PM
Josh, I am also new to turning (about a year). One of the things I have learned is to set how thin or thick you want the bowl on your first few scoops from the inside of the bowl. Jimmy Clewes is good for showing how you do this. This way you can continue down inside the bowl and dont have to go back to the rim. Once you go back you'll get a CRACK! :D,,,,,,,,,,,,OR A BANG!:D.

John Keeton
07-02-2010, 9:58 PM
Josh, the bowl certainly has potential and you should finish it - carefully!! Very nice wood.

Josh Bowman
07-02-2010, 10:15 PM
Josh, the bowl certainly has potential and you should finish it - carefully!! Very nice wood.
Since I'm new to this type, I should let it dry first right?

David E Keller
07-03-2010, 12:46 AM
Josh, it's not necessary to let it dry first. Most of the spalted wood I've turned is a little on the drier side anyway... It loses moisture while it's spalting. Regardless of whether it's wet or dry, you can turn a bowl to finish while it's green. If the walls are on the thin side and an even thickness, it's less likely to crack. It will warp a little as it dries, but that's no big deal.

FWIW, even if you're gonna rough it and let it dry, you should strive for an even wall thickness. If you're gonna stray from even thickness, the bottom can be a bit thinner than the sides of a roughout. Hope that helps.

Josh Bowman
07-03-2010, 8:40 AM
Josh, it's not necessary to let it dry first. Most of the spalted wood I've turned is a little on the drier side anyway... It loses moisture while it's spalting. Regardless of whether it's wet or dry, you can turn a bowl to finish while it's green. If the walls are on the thin side and an even thickness, it's less likely to crack. It will warp a little as it dries, but that's no big deal.

FWIW, even if you're gonna rough it and let it dry, you should strive for an even wall thickness. If you're gonna stray from even thickness, the bottom can be a bit thinner than the sides of a roughout. Hope that helps.
If I go ahead and thin it down today, can a finish be put on it? Maybe danish oil or Shellawax?

Dennis Ford
07-03-2010, 9:30 AM
You can put oil on it as soon as it is sanded, a film type finish should wait a little longer but it does not have to be truly dry for that either. If you plan to put a film type finish over the oil, check the instructions, the oil will need to cure first.