anyone use the Carter Quick Release Bandsaw Tension Arm

[Kevin Gregoire]

does anyone have the carter tension arm on their bandsaw?

im thinking of getting one and want opinions.

[Johnnyy Johnson]

I welded a nut on the end of the rod and use a ratchet socket or sometimes my impact wrench with a socket. It works so good I can not justify the money for the Carter.

[Brent Smith]

I'm on my third one. The first 2 broke at the weld, arm to ratchet?. The one I'm on now is made differently, so I'm hoping they've worked the problem out! As far as using it goes, simpicity in it's self. Installation takes less than an hour, including tune up, and involves drilling one hole in the casting. Be sure you're dead on with that hole or you will need to compensate by adusting your table angle.

[Kevin Gregoire]

third one? holy crap!!
i hope they were under warranty?
i never heard about any hole needing drilled?

[Will Overton]

My PowerMatic came standard with the Carter, so I can't speak about installation. It works as expected, both when releasing some tension between uses and fully detensioning for blade changes.

Here's a link to the installation manual, so you can decide if it's something you want to do.

http://www.carterproducts.com/support/QR%20Manual.pdf


Carter has them on sale for $141 shipped, until Tuesday.

http://www.carterproducts.com/product.asp?product_id=20&cat_id=16

[Brent Smith]

My mistake....it's been a while.....2 holes need drilling.

[bob hertle]

Can't comment on the device directly, but IMHO their video is quite misleading. They tout the ability to change blades quickly, and proceed to go from a 3/16 to a half inch blade without a change in tension or guide settings. Come on! If the 3/16 was properly tracked, tensioned and guided, as a minimum, side guide position (not necessarily spacing) as well as backup bearing position would have to be changed. Therein lies the time involved in blade changes. I also believe that they probably should have changed the tension at the knob when going from 3/16 to 1/2. I don't believe that it's necessary to remove tension every time you use the saw. I do believe that you should not store a saw with tires, for a long period of time under high tension, but that is strictly to avoid tire flat spotting. Springs, blades, and saw structure do not suffer damage over time from being left under normal tension. Save your money and buy some wood! My 2 cents!

Bob

[Brent Smith]

As far as blade changes go, Bob is right. Aside from the time it takes to remove tension from the blade by conventional means, everything thing else is the same as on a conventional saw. It's only value is if you are in the camp that prefers to release the blade from tension between uses. In that case it performs as advertised.

[David Hostetler]

I performed a mod on my 14" band saw to install the Grizzly tension release assembly from a G0555. Not exactly the Carter, but all told I think I have $60.00 including shipping & handling involved.

The installation required 3 new holes be drilled.

It quickly and very easily tensions / fully releases tension from the blade.

http://inlinethumb16.webshots.com/33103/2469117580103915817S425x425Q85.jpg (http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2469117580103915817kRPgmV) http://inlinethumb20.webshots.com/45523/2324559610103915817S425x425Q85.jpg (http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2324559610103915817DwuoQd)

[Van Huskey]

Quite frankly, I think Carter's Ratchet Rod is a better accessory than the quick release for a 14" saw.

[Peter Quinn]

I had one on a 14" Powermatic that came stock. it was a nice feature I used diligently, not sure I would have added it if it were not stock given the cost and bother. I'd have to decide which I am more of, lazy or cheap. I'm plenty of both. My new 20" saw has no tension release but the wheel to remove tension is large and seems easier than manually releasing tension on 14" models and some other saws I have used, so there will be no quick release retro on the new machine for me.

[Lance Norris]

I installed one on my Ridgid several years ago. I like it. Simple to install and use, 2 holes to drill. Drill bit and allen wrench is included in the kit. Works great. Recommended.

[Kevin Gregoire]

i think i would rather have the grizzly unit, its more compact in size and price!

does anyone know the part number for the grizzly tensioner?

[Howard Bueling]

i think i would rather have the grizzly unit, its more compact in size and price!

does anyone know the part number for the grizzly tensioner?

It does not come in kit form from Grizzly. Pull up the G0555 saw, go to the parts page, it will show you a parts breakdown. You order the pieces separately.

[Kevin Gregoire]

i found it but i see there is a bolt and two washers and a nut shown that has no numbers?
i wonder if they are the same as the 134x2, 138, 139?
is the #33 adjust rod needed or is my stock one fine? and is this stuff all i need?


http://i46.tinypic.com/2lbnmsp.jpg

[Bill Huber]

i think i would rather have the grizzly unit, its more compact in size and price!

does anyone know the part number for the grizzly tensioner?

One of the things like like about the Carter is the big red ball, you can see it with no problem. You know when the tension is off before you even start to use the saw, there is no question.

When you put tension on the blade the ball is up out of the way and when you go to leave the shop a quick look at the saw and you can see if you left it tensioned or not.

Installation is nothing, it took no time at all, 45 min. or so.

Right now the Carter is on sale for $129 until 7/6.

http://www.carterproducts.com/product.asp?product_id=20&cat_id=16

155052 155053

155054

[Myk Rian]

i found it but i see there is a bolt and two washers and a nut shown that has no numbers?
i wonder if they are the same as the 134x2, 138, 139?
They are the same.

[David Hostetler]

I sent you a PM on the subject, the parts that have the many parts as one number, order the individual part #s, the common number doesn't catch it all. That bit me in the tail, and cost me extra shipping...

Since linking here seems to be frowned upon, please go to lumberjocks, and search for dbhost, in blog entries look for the series "Hot Rodding a Harbor Freight Band Saw", and read the blog. I went into fairly deep detail on the process...

One additional item that is non Grizzly that I added to my saw was the Carter Cobra Coil. The OEM coil on my HF band saw isn't worth a tinkers hoot, and the Carter coil provides plenty of tension...

[Jim Shockey]

I have tried to find the post :hot rodding a harbor freight band saw: But I can not get to it. I followed the path that you laid out but to no post. Thank you Jim

[Kevin Gregoire]

jim, i found it last night.
the links for part 2 and 3 are up top
http://lumberjocks.com/dbhost/blog/11435

[Bob Mantica]

do you have a list of parts that you bought from grizzly

[Adam Strong]

i think i would rather have the grizzly unit, its more compact in size and price!

does anyone know the part number for the grizzly tensioner?

There is not just one part number, you have to order all the parts to make your own kit.


On the parts list REF# 140 quantity should be 2.
AND
You need to order REF# 33- P0555X033 (the tensioning rod) too if the threaded portion on the stock rod is not long enough.



I did the mod and was amazed at how ridiculously simple it is. The bolts and washers are cheaper purchased from the hardware store.

I got this list off of the RIDGID Tool Forums, so I take no credit for this.
Its a great, cheap and easy mod... Don't hesitate to try it.

[Adam Strong]

I welded a nut on the end of the rod and use a ratchet socket or sometimes my impact wrench with a socket. It works so good I can not justify the money for the Carter.

I did the same thing. I tried the Carter ratchet and it would not work along with my Grizzly quick-release that I have previously added. It works great, I actually have a spare ratchet I just leave on the end of the tensioning rod.

[Loren Hedahl]

I bought and installed one on my older Delta 14 inch band saw. It is a quick way to tension and de-tension the blade, but I tend to be careless and forget to de-tension after use.

If I had it to do all over again, I would not commit the funds to install it.

[Kevin Gregoire]

i emailed grizzly with the list of part numbers and they got back with a few
updated part numbers (bold/underlined) and prices.

33 ..... P0555033A Blade Screw Assy 7" ........$5.00
130A ...PSS05M Set Screw M5-.8 X 10 ...........$1.00
130B ...PSS07M Set Screw M5-.8 X 5 .............$1.00
131A ...P0555131A Fixed Spacer A .................$7.25
131B ...P0555131B Fixed Spacer B .................$2.75
132 .....PW04M Flat Washer 10mm .................$1.00
133 .....P0555133 Lever Rod ..........................$7.25
134 .....PW01M Flat Washer 8mm ...................$1.00 x 6
135 .....P0555135 Bushing ..............................$1.00
136 .....PCAP14M Cap Screw M8-1.25 X 20 ...$1.00
137 .....P0555137 Bracket ..............................$1.75
138 .....PB15M Hex Bolt M8-1.25 X 40 ............$1.00 x 2
139 .....PLN04M Lock Nut M8-1.25 ................$1.25 x 2
140 .....P0555140 Support Plate .....................$1.25 x 2
141 .....P0555141 Fixed Base .........................$7.25
142 .....PLW04M Lock Washer 8mm ................$1.00
143 .....PB09M Hex Bolt M8-1.25 X 20 ............$1.00

i know i wont be buying 6 washers for six bucks along with some other stuff.

[Kent A Bathurst]

One other low-cost option - I got a crank-handle style tension adjuster. Very fast, very inexpensive ($15-$20??), very easy to use, easily accessible from the front of the saw. Forget where I got it - but there are a few suppliers out there.

Full disclosure - I had planned to get the carter quick-release, but I got a great deal (from a fellow Creeker) on the Carter ETG (electronic tension gauge). The mounting for this unit precludes the quick-release assembly, because they occupy the same space. I absolutely love the ETG - make a note of the "sweet spot" by blade and task, and can hit that number very quickly every time. It also shows changes in tension as work is in process.

[Neil Brooks]

One of the things like like about the Carter is the big red ball, you can see it with no problem. You know when the tension is off before you even start to use the saw, there is no question.


I like this idea.

What I did, though (on my Grizzly G0555X), is use a label maker, and create a "TENSION ???" label that goes on the upper pulley door.

It stinks that I need a reminder for such a simple thing, but ... ;)

[Will Overton]

I like this idea.

What I did, though (on my Grizzly G0555X), is use a label maker, and create a "TENSION ???" label that goes on the upper pulley door.

It stinks that I need a reminder for such a simple thing, but ... ;)


I tried something similar on my last bandsaw. After awhile I got so used to seeing the label, I didn't see it anymore. :)

[David Hostetler]

On the fasteners thing, if you can, buy your things like bolts, washers, etc... from your local hardware store for a LOT less money than Grizzly wants...

My posts on Lumberjocks and BT3Central have parts lists...

Sorry about the lack of links. I have gotten in hot water for cross linking from here to other forums in the past...

[Joe Von Kaenel]

I installed one on my Rigid Bandsaw an it works well. From what I've Read keeping tension on the blade and tires isn't good for the saw. The carter unit allows you to leave the saw under no tension until you need to use the saw.


Joe

[Kevin Gregoire]

the carter has three positions, loose, snug, tight.
can anyone tell me if the grizzly lever has two or three positions?
i have seen some pics and its hard to tell but it looks like maybe it has three settings
but with the arm being black and shadows on the saw its hard to tell?

[Neil Brooks]

the carter has three positions, loose, snug, tight.
can anyone tell me if the grizzly lever has two or three positions?
i have seen some pics and its hard to tell but it looks like maybe it has three settings
but with the arm being black and shadows on the saw its hard to tell?

The OEM lever on my G0555X has only "off" and "on" positions, for tension.

[Kevin Gregoire]

well i have decided to go in another direction again, even tho the Grizzly arm is cheap,
and another upgrade i would eventually make would be new tires and who knows what
else?
i figured instead of spending that money on upgrades, im going to sell my BS and get a
new Grizzly saw for not much more money that would already have a tension arm
and also new tires and roller bearing supports. so it will be a good upgrade but for
others that are not upgrading, the Grizzly tension arm kit is a great way to go for a lot
less money then the Carter setup.

[Jim Shockey]

I'm still waiting on some back ordered parts for the convertion, but I was wondering if there is a problem getting the holes drilled in the rite spot. Is there a certian spot or height that they have to be drilled. I haven't laid out the parts yet to really get an idea how it goes. I hate to drill holes a little to high or low. Thank you Jim