Dumb question about hollow forms

[Dan Cannon]

I understand the process of turning green wood for bowls (I think), as in rough turning, letting it dry, then finish turning. As I'm looking at some of the amazing hollow forms on this site, it got me wondering what wood and processes are being used. Can the same process (rough, dry, finish) be used for hollow forms or are dry blanks being used for these? It seems to me that green wood isn't a good choice for a HF.

Not that I'm anywhere near attempting one, but a guy can dream, right??

Thanks in advance,

Curious in Toledo

[Tim Rinehart]

I've done a fair number of HFs over the past 8-9 months...I rarely rough turn and get pretty good results, little distortion for woods like walnut and maple both. I also try to keep wall thickness down to about 1/8" max, which may help.
Fruit woods...all bets are off in my opinion. Better rough turn...or like distortion for it's "art effect". ;)

Will be interesting to hear others reply on this one.

[Keith Burns]

Dan, unless the wood is dry, I always rough, dry, and final turn my hollowforms, exactly like I do bowls. I use the dna method for drying.

[Allen Neighbors]

I turn quite a few smaller hollowforms while the wood is still wet, and then allow them to warp as they will.
BTW, only dumb questions are the ones not asked. :D

[Steve Schlumpf]

I do the same as Keith! Rough out the form, DNA the rough out and then finish turn once it is dry.

Hollow forms are nothing to be worried about. Give it a try - the results can be amazing!

[John Hart]

Yup...what Steve said...go for it. It's just like a bowl...only not.:D

Yule love it....and as far as green wood...that's my favorite cuz it smells better and it cuts friendlier. I just toss my rough outs in a pile in a closed cabinet and forget about them for a while.:)

[David E Keller]

I have very limited experience with hollow forms, but I've tried all the methods listed thus far. I haven't had any trouble with cracking on the few I've turned from green wood, but I also haven't added lids or finials. If you want to add a lid, distortion is not something you'll likely appreciate. If you are leaving the opening without adornment and don't mind a little distortion, start to finish green turning is fun and faster. I've had little trouble with cracking or checking in those that I've DNA soaked, but the one's I just chucked into the cabinet have done well also. The DNA just makes them dry faster.

Dry wood is not as much fun to turn IMHO, but you can complete the piece without worries of much distortion.

[Joseph M Lary]

I have done it both ways . I like to turn my fourms to the finish thickness 3/16 there abouts , I'll wrap the out side with paper but not cover the hole, then I well use a fish tank air pump with air hose in side to move the air .I'll do it for a week maybe then take it out of the paper and let it air dry. I have had small cracks in the wood close up doing it like that . just my 2cents

[Steve Kubien]

It depends on what you want in the end. If you need the finished product to be round (as opposed to oval), then you rough, dry, finish-turn...just like many do with their bowls. If you do not care about a little distortion, why not turn it green and let it do its own thing? See, if I am making a cremation urn, I want and need it round so that I can fit a top/lid later. Turning green-to-finish is not an option.

As for drying them, I have used the DNA method and it seems to work well. My problem is I am in Canada and getting DNA is troublesome. I can get methyl hydrate easily but it is not exactly the same thing and there is concern over its poisonous qualities even after it is dry. So, I have pretty much given up on DNA. I recently built a drying kiln out of an old refridgerator. I slap on some Anchorseal, fill the fridge and let it cycle (one week with just a lightbulb and a tub of water to keep the humidity up while the temp rises, a week without the water, a week at a higher temp and finially a week with the higher temp and a fan getting the air moving). So far my results have been encouraging plus I do not have to worry about having a tub of highly flammable alcohol lying around.

HTH
Steve

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Dan most of the hollow forms are turned endgrain, and you don't have the problem of distortion like with a sidegrain bowl, were the side get smaller and the ends are not shrinking.
That is if the endgrain wood is the same all around, if there's sapwood and heartwood or/and knots you will have distortion.
Grab a piece of wet green wood and hollow it out, try to keep it thin and all the same wall thickness, as good as you can, you'll have fun and have some new experience under your belt ;-))

[Hilel Salomon]

I've done both and sometimes the warping adds character. I think though, that you're better off listening to the experts. What I will echo/add/applaud/second is what Allan said:
"The only dumb question is the one not asked."

I used to beg, cajole, and goad my university students to ask questions, whether or not they seemed "dumb." Among the many dumb things I have done, is nod my head in fake "Understanding" of something that I hadn't quite gotten.

Luck,

Hilel.

[Dan Cannon]

Thanks for all the input everyone, I really appreciate the responses. It's great to hear that hollow forms can be made with green wood, I'm not in a position to be buying a bunch of dried turning blanks, but would really like to learn HF turning eventually. Green/Free wood is always better in my [check]book! Especially when I'll surely be ruining a lot of it! Thanks again fellas...

Dan