bandsaw awesomeness + some advice

[Nathan Callender]

Hey all - I just want to say that my new favorite tool is my bandsaw! I just finished tuning it up - building a mobile base, adding some support, aligning everything and adding a riser block. It was a lot of work, but WOW does it run well. However, it barely passes the nickel test so I have some minor vibrations to work on still, but that's for another day. I still need to replace tires - or at least sand them down - they are definitely a little out of round, and replace the belt. I think that should do it, unless the wheels are out of balance.

Anyway, I just did a quick resaw by hand on some hard maple, and WOW it is so cool to do that. It opens up huge possibilities that were so painful to do before on the table saw or by hand. So, I'm super excited about that.

Anyway, my question is, when I was testing the wheels to see if they were out of balance, I would spin them, but when they came to a stop there was definitely some friction in that they don't glide to a spot like I thought they would. So, I'm not sure if they are actually in balance or if the bearings are stiff and won't let the heavy side fall. This bandsaw is a new ridgid - I tested with the blade and belt off. Both bearings seem a little 'stiff'. Is this normal, or should I expect a very smooth and frictionless motion? Ie, one where if I turn the heavy side of a wheel to the top, it would fall effortlessly to the bottom again?

Let me know if I haven't explained it clearly enough.

[johnny means]

As I understand it a balanced wheel won't have a heavy side.

[Tony Bilello]

Have to replace tires? Stiff bearings?

[Nathan Callender]

I guess that's what I'm trying to determine. I can't find a 'heavy' side on either of the wheels by spinning them, but I don't know if that means the wheels are balanced, of if the bearings have too much friction in them and need to be replaced. They seem sort of stiff when I turn the wheel and I just don't know if that's how the bearings are supposed to feel or if they are to be 'frictionless'. They don't make any noise when I turn them though.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Nathan,

First is your bandsaw new?

If your bandsaw is new, I would expect until it gets a few hours of run time on the bearings to be a little stiff.

2ndly, if a wheel is balanced and all other things are normal, it probably wont' stop in the same place each time. That is in theory and practice too.

[Chip Lindley]

Your spinning the wheels on their bearings is not a true test for out-of-balance. New bearings in a new BS may be a little stiff. I doubt seriously if they are bad. There is grease in them for lubrication which causes slight resistance. Bad bearings feel rough when turned with fingers, or have an objectionable metallic sound when running.

[Nathan Callender]

Thanks for the feedback. Yes, the bandsaw is new, so it sounds like a little stiffness for a few hours is to be expected. So, I think I'll use it for a while and then go back and try to test the wheels for balance again and see if anything has changed. I still have some minor vibration to correct so maybe I'll check to make sure the pulleys are in alignment again and possibly try a new belt. Is there anything else that I should check that could be causing the vibration? Like I said, it's pretty minor, but this is my first bandsaw so I really don't know what is acceptable or not. I would think the nickel test is a good standard to use, but maybe not with this type of saw.

[Rick Fisher]

Hey.. Good for you..

I am a band-saw lover as well.. I use mine 10x more than my Table saw.
I have a well tuned 24+ year old saw.. its still my favorite tool in the shop..

[glenn bradley]

Depending on what you call vibration; a bad weld on the blade or other blade anomaly can cause a thrumming or a ticking each band revolution. Just something to consider. BTW, congrats!

[Van Huskey]

Everyone is correct, bearings tend to be too stiff when new to actually determine if the wheels are in balance.

If you plan to replace the tires right away do that before you try to balance the wheels so they will be taken into account.

Getting a new quality blade(s) should be high on your list. I suggest flexback by Lenox, Spectrum Supply has good prices on them. They also carry the Kerfmaster which is a great resaw blade for 14" cast saws, the 1/2" is what I would recommend or the 5/8" .016 thick blade. They are very similar (if not from the same stock) to the Woodslicer from Highland but a good deal cheaper.

Linkbelts tend to help vibration as well as adding some weight to the base.

[Nathan Callender]

Yes, I guess I should go ahead and replace the tires before going much further. Can anyone recommend a good place to get a good set of urethane tires?

[Carl Beckett]

Has anyone ever used a V-link belt on their band saw? (segmented drive belt)

I put one on a contractors saw a few years back, and it made a very noticable difference in vibration/noise.

I am wondering if the same gains wouldnt apply to the bandsaw? I know a different speed reduction, but at the motor pully it must be the same (fast)

Thoughts?

[Myk Rian]

Has anyone ever used a V-link belt on their band saw? (segmented drive belt)
I have one on my Delta 14". When under load, the belt doesn't slip like the V did. There's less vibration.

I understand the link belts promote wear on the pulleys, but I've never seen where someone showed that to be true.

[glenn bradley]

Has anyone ever used a V-link belt on their band saw? (segmented drive belt)

I put one on a contractors saw a few years back, and it made a very noticable difference in vibration/noise.

I am wondering if the same gains wouldnt apply to the bandsaw? I know a different speed reduction, but at the motor pully it must be the same (fast)

Thoughts?

It took a lot of vibration out of my little Delta and makes my G0513X so quiet I sometimes forget to turn it off. . . spooky.

[Thomas S Stockton]

Nathan
I would say use the saw for a while as-is and see where your at after 10 hours or so. If it is a new saw there is really no reason to change the tires and I would be worried that your going to make it worse or create a nightmare for yourself.
my advice is to do things that won't cost much or get you in trouble first such as checking the pulley alingment.
I would also get a new blade if your using the one that came with it, in fact buy 2 so you can see if anything is different between the two.
You could try a link belt wouldn't hurt.
check to make sure everything is tight
I would avoid sanding the tires unless your real comfortable with it since it is easy to get them nice and smooth but still out of round.
You don't say what kind of bandsaw but a little vibration is common on the lighter saws.
I personally think the nickel test is overrated I used to have an old jointer that passed with flying colors, the only problem was that the nickel would end moving across the jointer as it was standing up.
Tom