Natural edge bowls (how to)?

[Derek Voigt]

Do I need any special tools or techniques to turn a natural edge bowl? Or are they just a variation of "regular" bowl turning?

Thanks
Derek

[John Keeton]

Derek, I have done only a couple, and I used my Thompson's bowl gouge. I think the "technique" is in keeping the bark on, and having wood harvested in the winter when the sap is down goes a long way toward that. Having some shellac and/or CA handy for loose places is good, too.

And, lest we forget - the faceshield. If you don't wear one all the time (and, I am guilty of that), this is one time you definitely need to have one on!

There are several creekers that do NE a lot, and I am sure they will chime in.

[Thom Sturgill]

Like John, I've only turned a few, and what he said was right on. I would add that NE makes reversing more difficult. A vacuum chuck works well, but I did my first on a jamb chuck with masking tape to hold it on. A combination jamb chuck and donut works well also and is inexpensive.

[Art Kelly]

Harvest in winter if you have a choice. I did some Florida (???Mockernut???) hickory once, which came out nice. It was harvested in our winter:rolleyes:.

I saturate the bark with CA as soon as I get close to being roughed out. Earlier if common sense dictates. If you don't want the bark that remains to be shiny from the CA, at least saturate around the edges. Sometimes I had to glue some pieces back on, especially when I banged the tool rest against the piece.:eek:

I have a bunch of home-made* compression chucks that I use. Since the edge will not be in a plane (nobody is that lucky and besides it would not be interesting), you need something sticking up inside the bowl to pick up the inside bottom and allow it to be centered on the drive end.

The process of removing the tenon isn't brain surgery in it's precision, but it's nice to sorta have it centered with the axis coaxial with the drive when you're turning off the tenon. For this I use a home-made version of this http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=packard&Category_Code=lathes-acc-tlstkadp to hold a chuck in the tailstock which holds the piece centered. This holds the piece while you crank it in against the piece sticking up inside the bowl while the compression chuck is being adjusted. Of course you have to remove the tailstock once it has served its centering purpose.

Sorry, I don't have anything like this going on right now, but if you're interested, I'll be happy to set one up and shoot a few pics. Hard to put in words; easy to put in pictures. :)

*I use 3/8 OSB for these. I tried MDF. Once. Mistake. Big mistake. Some rather large pieces are still unaccounted for.

HTH
Art

[David E Keller]

Nothing special in my mind about turning a natural edge piece. I've just used a jam chuck on the few I've done for reversing, but I'll bet a vacuum would be sweet. Give it a go then post some pics.

[Jack Mincey]

I've done a number of NE bowls. If you want the bark to stay on it is important to turn ASAP. IF you let a log lay around for months the bark tends to dry out and peel off the wood very easy, where as a fresh cut log the bark is held on very well. I turn most all of my bowls using a bowl gouge with a Ellsworth type gind. I turn the outside first using a good shear cut where the bark is. This gets you a good cut and helps prevent the bark from being chipped or even knocked off. I then start hollowing out the inside using push cuts. I thin the wall thickness down about one inch to two inches at a time. You must get the rim done first and work your way down to the bottom of the bowl. After everything is done at the rim and you move down to the next inch or two, don't be tempted to go back out to the rim. It can make for a bad catch and soiled pants.:D After you finish the inside of the bowl and your bowl is dry and sanded which doesn't take but 3 or 4 weeks if you turn it down under 1/4 inch to start with it is time to turn off the tenon. I sand most of my NE bowls with the lathe turned off, just use the chuck and lathe to hold it while sanding with power sanders like a random orbit sander or a drill with sanding pad attachment held in it. It is easy to turn the foot off by holding the bowl against a jam chuck with the live center in your tailstock. With care you can turn down the tenon to a half inch or less, if it is a small bowl. As you get the tenon down in size it is a good idea to turn the lathe speed down just in case the wood snaps before you are ready. I then use a small saw to saw the nub off and use a sharp knife to carve the rest off and then sand the foot and it is ready to go. I use an old scrap bowl with a mouse pad with the nylon peeld off as padding as my jam chuck. You can turn the rim of the bowl to fit the inside of your bowl. It is a great use of some of your cracked bowls.
Good Luck,
Jack
Jack Mincey

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Do I need any special tools or techniques to turn a natural edge bowl? Or are they just a variation of "regular" bowl turning?

Thanks
Derek

Special tools ??, I would say no, I use my normal bowl turning tools, I use a conventional grind gouge, if I go for a more undercut thin-wall closed form and use an Irish grind gouge for the bottom part.
Techniques ?? nothing special, but you do have to be more careful that you don't knock the edges as the ark can be damaged pretty easy, also when entering/starting the cut make sure the heel of the tools isn't breaking the bark by having your tool enter not exactly right, very easily done.
As for finishing the foot, if you first let the piece dry and then sand and finish your bowl will not be round anymore, as wood will get thinner but not shorter, the bowl is narrower after drying, and so the vacuum chuck might not work anymore, but even if it does I do like some tailstock help holding it.
I often grab just a piece of PVC pipe and hold that in the chuck with a piece of foam or thick rag over that to prevent damage to the bowl and the piece goes onto that with the tailstock live center pressing and holding the bowl in place (having a center mark on the bottom is always handy ;))
Did this piece just the other day that way :D

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[Allen Neighbors]

I've turned a lot of NE Bowls, and Jack Mincey has given the best instructions I've ever seen written, in so few words. Way to go, Jack!!
The only thing I can add is that when I get the rim started, down to bare wood, I apply a lacquer wash 65%Thinner/35%Lacquer (to keep CA from staining) and then CA to Cambium layer of the bark. It helps to hold the bark on while you finish the rim. I do this two or three times, 'til I get the entire rim turned.

[Art Kelly]

...The only thing I can add is that when I get the rim started, down to bare wood, I apply a lacquer wash 65%Thinner/35%Lacquer (to keep CA from staining) and then CA to Cambium layer of the bark...

Mylands Cellulose Sanding Sealer also works well to prevent CA "staining." Dries almost instantly, even in the Florida summers.

$0.02
Art

[Norm Zax]

One more tip - this works better with some woods, less with others. Some species just have a stronger bond with their bark. Also - if bark flies off, keep it. It can be glued back on. Last - havent tried this yet but small missing pieces can be "faked" with burning or other methods.
Enjoy...

[John Hart]

What everyone else said....and Watch the position of your hands and be aware of loose sleeves and such. It's like a big 'ol saw blade with giant teeth spinning in front of you. :)

[Derek Voigt]

Thanks for all the tips on this.

Now anyone have any tips on how to make a NE blank from a log?

Derek

[David E Keller]

Cut off any splits then cut a length of the log approximately equal to it's diameter or slightly longer, then cut it in half through the pith to remove the pith. Clear the bark off in the central part of the bark side and mount it on a screw chuck or faceplate. After that, follow the instructions above.:)