Straight Edge

[Brett Hoffman]

I’m curious as to what the rest of you use for a straight edge for checking the flatness of plans, table saw tops, etc.

Did you buy something at a big box store like Home Depot or do use something like Woodcraft’s Precision Straight Edge?

Thanks,

Brett

[Lee Ludden]

I have been happy with the Veritas Straight Edge (http://www.veritastools.com/products/Page.aspx?p=76). I think I got mine from either Highland Woodworking or Lee Valley.

[Dave Gaul]

I have the Groz 24" precision straightedge.. I have a machinist friend who works with precision machines/products and he was impressed...

I also have the Groz 3 piece square set that has served me well...

[Stew Hagerty]

I have Woodpecker SERX 12" and 36" straight edges and I'm very happy with them, as I have been with all of my Woodpecker tools. They are supposed to be straight within .001” per foot. One edge is formed at a 30 degree bevel and engraved with an inch scale. They're machined from aircraft grade anodized aluminum and come in wall-mount-ready cases.

[Rod Sheridan]

I have the Veritas steel straightedge.

When purchasing a straight edge, carefully compare the accuracy of the product.

If you have two 36" straight edges and one is 0.001" total, and the other is 0.001" per foot, the second one could be 0.003" out.

Regards, Rod.

[Michael Peet]

I have 12" and 24" Starrett straightedges and the Veritas 36" steel one. A good straightedge is not to be underrated, IMHO.

Mike

[Matt Kestenbaum]

I use the 12" rule from my Starrett combination square for smaller stuff - like checking the flatness of waterstones. For leveling tool tops I bought the 36" lee valley steel straight edge...essential for getting jointer beds co-planer.

[glenn bradley]

+1 Veritas 36". . . +2 if you count my dad.

[Derek Arita]

I'm having a hard time finding the accuracy specs on a 48" Starrett. I'd like to be able to have a direct comparison to other straight edges that give their accuracy as .00X per foot or over entire length. Anyone got a link?

[Bill LaPointe]

http://www.nolansupply.com/bysubcategory.asp?category=Precision+Tools&supercategory=Rules&subcategory=Starrett+Straight+Edges%26nbsp%3B&type=False&specs=True

[Ellen Benkin]

I have a Starrett 36" that I got off ebay. It was used in a machine shop and well cared for. If I had to buy one today it would be a Veritas.

[Gary Herrmann]

Ditto for the LV straightedge. I also got real lucky on a starrett off the bay, but they seem to be hit and miss.

[Jim O'Dell]

I just ordered the Veritas 38" aluminum one from Lee Valley, much to my wife's dismay. $39.50 and free shipping, guaranteed to .003 over the entire length. I would have liked to have ordered the 50", but this should be fine. Jim.

[Myk Rian]

Stanley Extreme series level.

[Neil Brooks]

Stanley Extreme series level.

+1-ish.

My 4' and 2' Stabila levels.

[Van Huskey]

Just like squares most of us have to buy straight edges on faith, that along with the importance of a good one "force" me to buy ones that I am confident in thus mine are Veritas. I don't have any reference to judge them by and much of my work product is a result of their accuracy, based on this even the good ones are inexpensive.

[Gary Muto]

I just ordered the Lee Valley 50". I have Jointer issues..

[Chris Kennedy]

I have the LV aluminum and like it a lot.

By the way -- there's free shipping at LV at the moment.

Cheers,

Chris

[Paul Ryan]

I have 2 both lee valley one 24" a another 36" both are steel. The shorter one rides around in the trunk of my car and is used when I need to check cylinder head flatness or engine blocks. It has always been as accurate as what most shops use. The longer is used for wood tools and has worked flawlessly for year. Just make sure you coat the edge good with wax, rust will wreck a straight edge in a hurry.

[Orlando Gonzalez]

Starrett 12", 18", 24", 36", 48"

[Craig White]

The ruler from a Starrett 12" combination square covers 90% of checking plane soles, waterstones, and projects. I also use 24" and 60" Starrett straight edges for setting up machines.
Craig White

[Derek Arita]

Didn't even know there was a 60"!:eek:

[Brett Hoffman]

Thanks everyone for your response. I ended up getting a 36" Steel Straightedge from Lee Vally. In my winter coat I found a gift card for $70 and the $69 for the straightedge with free shipping, it was like it was meant to be ordered.

Now I need to find something to spend a dollar on, my gift card expires this month. :)

Thanks,

Brett

[Gary Muto]

Thay had some plastic glue spreading sticks that I picked up over Christmas. The flexible tip is great for application and cleaning after use. the glue does not stick to them once dried.

[Cliff Holmes]

+1 on the Veritas, I use mine all the time. You're going to very happy with it. A bit heavy, tho ...

[Ryan Hellmer]

I have 3 that I use, (1) is the steel rule from my 12" square, (2) is the blue empire level from HD, and (3) is a custom jobby a buddy of mine that works for a precision manufacturer made for me. When they calibrate their equipment they cut off 3-4" strips from the edge of the sheets of aluminum, he marks the lasered edge and voila, I have extremely straight straigt edges ranging from 24-96". My only complaint on the longer ones is that they aren't as rigid as I'd like i.e. when you put the straight side down on the face of the jointer, it can curve left or right which can mess up your reading, need to consider adding a "spine" to it.

Ryan

[george wilson]

Personally,I would not use aluminum straight edges. They are easily marred,and not as rigid as I prefer. Of course,good machine shop quality straight edges are very expensive.

I am fortunate to have a tubular micrometer Co. 48" hardened steel straight edge,and 18" and 2 36" flaked and scraped master flats. Also,a 24" black granite laboratory grade master straight edge.

If you are VERY SERIOUS about using your straight edge,handle it with gloves on. The heat of your hand will warp it some,though possibly not enough to worry about for wood working machinery.

[Howard Skillington]

Given reputable companies, the real choice seems to be between steel and aluminum. Aluminum would be easier to handle and care for, plus dual use as a precision measuring and marking tool would be nice with the Woodpecker 36" SERX, but will aluminum maintain accuracy under normal use as well as steel? It doesn't inspire long-term confidence as much as the 36" Steel Veritas edge.

[Steve Costa]

I use a Brown & Sharp 72" that I paid $75 for and a Starret 48" that I paid $125 for. Use the B&S for setting jointer & planer tables. Don't know how accurate they are but they work for me.

[Matt Kestenbaum]

If I recall my LV steel straight edge came with a certification/inspection card guaranteeing the flatness to spec. Same with the Starrett tools I've bought. I suspect that the aluminum is lighter in the hand...heaven knows the steel model weighs a lot...but when leveling iron tool tables that a big help as it doesn't budge when probing with feeler gauges or making small adjustments. Other than rust issues, I think the aluminum would be harder to protect the edge.

BTW the blue plastic wrap and tube that LV ships the steel edges in has been perfect for storage -- preventing rust and other issues.

[Gary Muto]

I just got mine yesterday and I agree that the tube used for shipping will provide good storage. I opted for the LV Aluminum 50" model so I know I'll have to be more careful with it than my 24" steel edge.

[Hans Braul]

I checked my LV 50" against the bed of my jointer and it is true to less than .001" along its length (my jointer beds are about 42# and I can't get a .001" feeler gauge under it anywhere. I'm very happy with it.

Hans

[george wilson]

Are you guys aware of how to store your straight edges? Maybe they come with instructions. My long Tubular Micrometer Co. straight edge (TUMICO) has places engraved into it where you can horizontally mount it on 2 places to balance the weight so it won't take a sag over a period of time. Or,you can hang a straight edge vertically by drilling a hole near 1 end. I leave mine laying flat in a fitted wooden case I made for it in the 60's. I had found an old tool seller who had several of them brand new in cosmoline. I think I paid $15.00 for it. No telling what it really cost.

Similarly,my 3 "camel back" scraped precision cast iron flats sit in cases with felt pads at strategic spots to balance the weight. the 18" one is about 1" wide. The longer ones are more like 1 1/2" wide. They were really made for applying spotting blue to machine ways that you are re-scraping,such as worn metal lathe beds. The granite one sits in its own fitted hard shell piece of "luggage" with resting points.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Are you guys aware of how to store your straight edges? .....places engraved into it where you can horizontally mount it on 2 places to balance the weight......

ditto on my 48" Starrett. However - after I ponied up the bucks for it (well worth it, though - jointer alignment and planer alignment/snipe gone forever), I made a 3/4" plywood case for it, with thumb screws and tee-nuts to close the top - stored flat. I know, I know - overkill. But then, the straightedge itself was probably overkill as well, so in for a penny...........

[Jim Barrett]

I have a Starrett 380-72 72" steel straight edge I will be posting in the classified section in a few days. Used it on my MiniMax CU 300 and also the 12" jointer I recently sold. Works great for setting up machinery and also for table and workbench tops...never been abused or dropped :)
PM me if you are interested. I haven't decided on a price yet. I still have the original shipping carton so I'll be able to ship.

Jim