Spalted Alder Gloat & Queries

[Jamie Straw]

We finally cut up a good-sized alder that had to come down last year -- 18" max diameter. What a blast! I've been feeling antsy about it, because there's an extremely fine line with Alder between "spalted" and "rotten." Looks like we got to this one just in time, have a few nicely spalted pieces big enough for bowls, lots of unspalted stuff that's solid, and some leftovers for spindle work.

Queries: Please give me all the advice you can on what I need to turn the spalted stuff successfully and how to go about it. I think I want to rough turn the spalted blanks right away to make sure they don't degrade. I know about protecting my lungs. It's not terribly punky, but wondering the various ways I can stabilize/strengthen the wood if need be, any hidden tricks to turning it, and such. Thanks!


154603154604154605

[Jon Lanier]

What you need is to send it all to me, only I know how to turn that stuff successfully. :rolleyes:

Turn as you would anything else. If the spalt seems 'punky' stablize with CA glue. If the whole piece seems 'soft.' Get close to what you want and then use sand paper for final shaping.

(where a mask when turning spalted stuff)

Congratulations.... great gloat!

[Jamie Straw]

If the spalt seems 'punky' stablize with CA glue.

When using the CA, do I put it all over the entire piece? At what point in the roughing process? Do I end up doing it in layers as I go? The devil's in the details, as they say, and the book I ordered to help me with this stuff was delayed in shipping. Thanks, sorry to be a pest!

[Steve Schlumpf]

Jamie - congrats on all that beautiful wood!

I agree with Jon - turn this just like you would any other wood. If it is punky - then move on to the next piece! You can always come back to the punky one later but you will find that the effort it takes to create something out of punky wood usually is not worth it!

If you have a few small areas that are punky - then be sure to use a very sharp gouge and take light cuts. If you feel you have to use a hardener of some type - then I would use diluted white glue or an epoxy cocktail - which is epoxy diluted with DNA.

Good luck with everything! Looking forward to seeing some finished turnings!

[Jamie Straw]

Thanks, Steve. I'm eager to get going on the alder. Some pieces will test the limits of my 1236, LOL. I did my first "bigger" bowl this weekend, in slightly spalted maple -- it was ~10.5"D, but only 9" by the time I got things trimmed down. Will take a pic sometime this week.

[Harlan Coverdale]

Congrats on the wood haul. I've turned a lot of spalted alder. Fun stuff, and pretty easy to work with. As with just about any soft wood, sharp tools are a big help for getting clean cuts. Also be careful sanding, since some spots will tend to sand away more quickly than others, leading to an uneven surface. Sand lightly and evenly to minimize the problem.

[John Hart]

Jamie...If you'd like to get creative with the spalt lines...say, on a vertical piece like a vase or hollowform...you could cut your blank at an angle to those lines and turn an end-grain piece. That way, the spalt lines would sorta spiral up and around the piece from bottom to top. It might give a really nice effect.

Nice haul by the way. Lots of happiness in that pile-o-wood. :)

[John Keeton]

Jamie, congrats on the haul!! Never turned alder, but I have turned spalted wood that was "on the edge" and I agree with the comments.

BTW, there have been recent posts by Seri Robinson, here on the creek, about the health issues with spalted wood - her comments -

As for health, spalted wood isn't inherently any more dangerous than normal wood, and a lot better for you to breathe than many tropical woods. I've written about this issue extensively both here:

http://www.finewoodworking.com//blog...e/tag/spalting (http://www.finewoodworking.com//blog/woodworking-life/tag/spalting)

and here:

http://web.mac.com/kaysa_gabriel/Nor...Blog/Blog.html (http://web.mac.com/kaysa_gabriel/Northern_Spalting/Blog/Blog.html)

[Baxter Smith]

Good looking wood! Maybe too good/too far gone in some cases but you can be picky to start with.

[Cathy Schaewe]

I've turned a couple of pieces of spalted alder. My best luck with the punky spots was putting sanding sealer over the whole thing, and then dabbing it on extra on those spots. Then, like everybody says, light cuts, sharp tools, sand carefully. I found it took lots and lots of coats of finish to soak into the punky spots, even with the sanding sealer.

I'm sending a piece off today to a relative today for her birthday, and I'm pretty happy with it. The wood is so pretty, it's worth the extra hassle if the punky spots aren't too extensive.

good luck!

[John Hart]

This may also be a good candidate for the infamous Epoxy Cocktail.

Recipe:

5 minute Epoxy
Denatured Alcohol (DNA)

Rough turn your piece to desired thickness
Get your paint brush ready
Thoroughly mix your epoxy in a dish per manufacturers instructions
Slowly add DNA while stirring until the mixture is about the consistency and appearance of milk.
Using your readily available paint brush, slather that milky stuff all over the place. It will soak up readily.
Allow the mixture to cure.
Turn to finished thickness.

[brian watts]

nice looking wood.

[Roger Chandler]

Jamie...If you'd like to get creative with the spalt lines...say, on a vertical piece like a vase or hollowform...you could cut your blank at an angle to those lines and turn an end-grain piece. That way, the spalt lines would sorta spiral up and around the piece from bottom to top. It might give a really nice effect.

Nice haul by the way. Lots of happiness in that pile-o-wood. :)


Boy John,

I really like your idea on the spiraling grain! That will make a stunning vase!

[Jamie Straw]

Thanks, everybody, for the replies, info and artistic tips! I'm nose-to-the-grindstone getting the bark stripped and the wood put away, then got distracted when I turned on the lathe to turn a small, odd piece.:D Will get back with specific questions soon.

[Reed Gray]

I only turned alder once. The piece was solid, but when done felt like balsa wood. I had a hard time selling it because of how it felt. What you have is pretty, but when it starts getting punky, I toss it. Too much work.

robo hippy

[Bernie Weishapl]

I agree with Steve and Reed. If it is to punky throw it and move on to the next piece. Life is to short to try to turn a bad piece of wood.

If you have small spots I do exactly what John Hart said with the epoxy. I got that from him a few moons ago and use it a lot. I paint it on after I get close to what I want for shape. I paint it on till it won't take any more. I let it dry for 24 hrs even when I use 5 minute epoxy. Have had really good luck with it. CA it just takes to much and is expensive. Minwax wood hardener works pretty well.

[Jamie Straw]

Thanks everyone for the cautions on the punky-problems. It seems to pass the fingernail test for the most part, will just have to see what it's like when wood meets chisel. AAW meeeting tonight, so probably won't get to the wood until Thurs.