Double bearings for my Grizzly G0555 bandsaw

[Jack Gaskins]

I upgraded my grizzly g0555 with a riser block and 3/4" resaw blade. The roller bearings do not help with blade twist very much and was wondering if I could add two bearings on each side by simply adding a longer screw to hold them on or is there a specific set of double bearings I should buy??

[Dan Karachio]

Hi Jack,

Carter makes a guide set with double bearings, but it is pricey. $169!
http://www.carterproducts.com/product.asp?product_id=130&cat_id=13

No way! That's like half the price of the saw.

I don't have your saw, but I have a Rikon 14" and it has single guides and with 13" of resaw it is just fine. I'm betting there might be more you could do with set up. First few things to look for. Is twisting when you resaw? What size blade is it? A dull blade will not cut straight. Is you blade new/sharp? Finally, excuse the dumb question, but are you lowering your top guides to within 1/4 of the top of the workpiece?

[Van Huskey]

First I think the Carter guides are worth every penny on any cast Delta clone.

Second, I might suggest the 3/4" blade may be a little too much blade for the saw. Most cast Delta clones really can't tension a 3/4" blade to the true tension needed. What type, and thickness of blade are you using? My suggestion for resaw on a cast clone is get a 5/8" thin beamed (either .016 or .022) blade and tension it at 5/8" for the .016 and 3/4" for the .022 which should get you in the neighborhood of the desired 15,000psi. The best resaw blade I have found for BS that can't tension a wide bi-metal or carbide blade is the Lenox Kerfmaster from Spectrum supply. Very similar but more expensive blades are the Woodslicer from Highland and the Bladerunner from Ittura.

In the end my best guess is you do not have enough tension on the blade for good resaw cuts. Again it would be helpful to know exactly what 3/4" blade you have.

[Dan Karachio]

Didn't even take the time to read about the 3/4" blade. That is excessive and asking way too much. You can't expect good performance. For low cost resawing, try a Highland Woodworking 1/2" Wood Slicer. $25

Van, I guess I am not truly experienced in the Carter Guides, but spending nearly $200 on guides for a $500 saw seems out of line (and I am not one to shrink from spending money on stuff). I do have their little stabilizer and that has indeed made my bandsaw a scroll saw. I may not be a wood working genius like so many here, but I am most comfortable with band saws having used a very problematic old Walker Turner as my first saw. As a result I know how to tune my bandsaws. In my opinion and experience, single bearing guides + a proper set up + a decent blade will get you straight and clean cuts, resaw, ripping or cross cutting. Of course, if you want to prove me wrong, please feel free to order me a set of Carter Guides! :-)

[glenn bradley]

My G0513X uses eccentric bolts to adjust the double bearings closer and farther from the blade. I do not know how the 555 does it but this would make it tricky to get a longer bolt. Will your current bearings not move forward enough to be placed a small fraction behind the gullet? If they will achieve that position, I would say you're good. As to the 3/4" blade on a 14" saw . . . . I'll let those that have done this speak to that possible issue.

[Curt Harms]

Jack, I had a TimberWolf do very much what you are describing. i tried everything I could think of and it still wouldn't cut straight. The teeth looked like new condition. I finally replaced the blade and gosh, it cut like it was supposed to again.

[Jason White]

I have the Carter's that I retrofitted onto my old JET bandsaw. They have double-bearings and work great with wider blades (though I haven't tried a 3/4" blade yet).

If you get the Carters, make sure you spend the extra money and get them with the micro-adjust knobs! I'm still kicking myself for only getting the standard ones! :o

Here's a link to a review on the Carters...

http://www.carterproducts.com/support/Guide%20kit%20review%20from%20NewWoodworker.pdf


I upgraded my grizzly g0555 with a riser block and 3/4" resaw blade. The roller bearings do not help with blade twist very much and was wondering if I could add two bearings on each side by simply adding a longer screw to hold them on or is there a specific set of double bearings I should buy??

[glenn bradley]

Jack, I had a TimberWolf do very much what you are describing. i tried everything I could think of and it still wouldn't cut straight. The teeth looked like new condition. I finally replaced the blade and gosh, it cut like it was supposed to again.

Suffolk stands behind their products. Ask for a replacement. :)

[Howard Acheson]

A 3/4" resaw blade is not a good choice for the Grizz G0555. A 1/2" resaw blade will work much better. In fact, 1/2" blades are recommended for any 14" BS.

For better control of the blade Cool Block guides work better than roller bearing guides. They are quieter also.

[Jack Gaskins]

Sorry for all the confusion but I measured my blade and it is 1/2" NOT 3/4". Dont know why I posted it as a 3/4" blade, :rolleyes:.... As for the blade, it is a brand new woodslicer from Highland woodworking. It cuts great it just likes to follow the grain when I am resawing a large chunck of wood and I only have the single bearings. As for the bearings, I was always under the impression that there was supposed to be a tiny gap between the blade and the bearings but from what I have been reading lately it sounds like a lot of people are letting the bearing touch the blade. This would helpl with some of my twisting I suppose. ?

[Neil Brooks]

Sorry for all the confusion

I was confused before you ever got here :).


As for the bearings, I was always under the impression that there was supposed to be a tiny gap between the blade and the bearings but from what I have been reading lately it sounds like a lot of people are letting the bearing touch the blade

Not my understanding.

I leave a piece of paper's width between the bearing and the blade -- on all four bearings.

I think a "spec" *does* exist, but ... I'm following the consistent advice I've seen in numerous places...

[glenn bradley]

from what I have been reading lately it sounds like a lot of people are letting the bearing touch the blade. This would helpl with some of my twisting I suppose. ?

I haven't heard of that with bearings (but I am sure I haven't heard of a lot of things). I have heard people speak of doing that with Cool Blocks, wood and ceramic guides, although just barely touching.

I used to wrap a piece of paper around the back of the blade and touch the bearings to it and tighten them in place. This left about .003" - .004" between bearings and blade on each side. I leave about the same in the rear but just kinda eyeball all sides now.

[Van Huskey]

As others have posted (paper width) about .003 thou off is good, not touching.

The Woodslicer is a .22" thick blade, I might try tensioning it a bit higher than the 1/2" mark and see if the extra tension helps resist the twisting. I assume we are talking about twist as oppossed to drift? You have adjusted the fence to compensate for drift right? The other thing that can cause twist is an over-eager feedrate.

The WS from Highland is a great blade but when it comes time to replace that one consider the Kerfmaster by Lenox (Spectrum Supply carries it) it is basically the same blade but is about 1/3 to 1/2 the price depending on length, even cheaper if you need a custom length from Highland, Spectrum welds all bands to order.

I continue to call the Woodslicer and Kerfmaster basically the same because I do not know that they actually come from the same stock but visually or in use I can not tell a difference.

[Howard Acheson]

Sorry for all the confusion but I measured my blade and it is 1/2" NOT 3/4". Dont know why I posted it as a 3/4" blade, :rolleyes:.... As for the blade, it is a brand new woodslicer from Highland woodworking. It cuts great it just likes to follow the grain when I am resawing a large chunck of wood and I only have the single bearings. As for the bearings, I was always under the impression that there was supposed to be a tiny gap between the blade and the bearings but from what I have been reading lately it sounds like a lot of people are letting the bearing touch the blade. This would helpl with some of my twisting I suppose. ?

The proper blade properly set up should cut straight without "following the grain".

Let me suggest you dig into the instruction book for your saw. As I recall my manual has excellent instructions on setting up the saw.

Yes, there should be a space between the bearings and the blade. If they are always touching the blade you will more quickly wear out the bearings. Again, your manual will tell you and show you how to set the bearings. The only guides that can be set actually touching the blade are Cool Blocks or homemade oil impregnated hardwood guides. That's the reason they control the blade better than bearings or solid metal guides.

If you are new to using a bandsaw let me suggest you purchase either Lonnie Bird's Band Saw Book or Mark Duginske's most recent book. Both will tell you how to set up and align your saw, which blades to use for different cuts, how to tension the blade as well as other good info about using your saw.

[Curt Harms]

Suffolk stands behind their products. Ask for a replacement. :)

Nah, the blade worked properly when new. I damaged it, I don't know how and my point was just because it doesn't look damaged doesn't mean it isn't.

[Prashun Patel]

I have the G0555 and had bad luck with the 3/4" Timberwolf I used.

Much better luck with 1/2".

[Paul Ryan]

I have the G0555 and had bad luck with the 3/4" Timberwolf I used.

Much better luck with 1/2".

I had bad luck with timberwolf blades on my 0555 as well. And they would not stand behind their product for me. I had a 1/2 blade that was welded incorrectly and they would not replace it. Said it was installed incorrectly. Funny thing I have never had the same problem with any other blade. I have since switched to laguna blades. Much better blades in my opinion. A 3/4 blade can be used on the 14" machine but 5/8" is ideal for resawing on a 14" saw in my opinion. Check out laguna sheer force.

[Jim Finn]

[QUOTE=Howard Acheson;1455955]A 3/4" resaw blade is not a good choice for the Grizz G0555. A 1/2" resaw blade will work much better.
....... I found this to be true of my GO555 also.

[Jack Gaskins]

Bought some 608zz bearings off ebay. Pack of 10 for $7.34 and free shipping. BUT, they will not arrive till Tuesday. I needed ONE freakin bearing to get me through my weekend project so I went to ACE hardware,,,,,,,,,,,,,,$10 for ONE bearing! :eek: :eek: :eek: ! WTF !