Hardware installation tips

[Mark Singer]

Most of the recent articles on installing hardware such as knife hinges, or recessed pulls seem to advise using a router freehand and then paring the waste with a chisel to the scribe line. My bathroom cabinet construction rasied questions about installing hinges. That is a decent way to do it if you have a large surface. If you have the edge of a door it is difficult to steady the router.It is risky ...if you slip you ruin the door...ouch. If you have several doors to build or flush laches to install, make a simple jig to guide the router.
If you just have a couple to install...this tip works well. I can't remember ever seeing it published though.
Locate where the hinge or hardware is to go.
Install it using a Vix bit to center the holes.
It is nice to have an extra set of screws and hinges to use.
Surface mount the hinge using the screws (2 are required for stability)
With a sharp knife scribe around the outside of ths hardware edge.
Go deeper with each pass.
Remove the screws and plant the chisel edge in the knife scribe.
Go light near the edge.
Pair out the center using a chisel.
This is quick and accurate since you are scribing and cutting to the actual piece. THe secure attacment using the screws allows the control of both hands. No pencil lines to deal with and inaccuracy.
Don't you hate when the phone rings and your freehanding the router;)

[Jim Becker]

Excellent, Mark. One thing I'll add is if the hardware is brass, use steel screws for this operation to preserve the "real" ones as well as to insure you don't break off a brass screw. DAMHIKT@!!!! (And that includes brass hardware that is plated to look like something else, such as brushed nickle)

[Mark Singer]

Thanks Jim, Steel screws are a most in hard wood. Don't use a cordless drill to drive them. If a hinge gets blemished move it to a location where it won't show. Top of door and bottom of cabinet are the most important. Otherwise you have to bend down and look up to see it.

[Jamie Buxton]

I use a version which kinda half your way and half the router way. I scribe the edges like you do, then rout the middle of the recess, then clean up to the edge with a chisel. Using the router in the middle gives me precise control of the depth of the recess, and that's often important.

[Herb Blair]

Mark,
I use your method, with the added step of using carpet tape on the bottom of the hinge to hold it in place while I'm using the vix bit. I use steel screws to place the hinge, then I scribe the outline of the hinge with a knife. Depending on the size and how many, I may use a router, I don't get close to the line, and I will fixture the piece so that the router has support on both sides. I also have created routing templates for the common sizes of hinges that I use.

[Matt Allan]

Good tip Mark, I use to try and just hold it on while I made my initial lines. Who wants to guess how well being lazy worked out? :)

Since hand tools frighten me, I normally try to get at least 75% cleaned out with the router in some way. If its small by clamping other stock around it for a larger work surface, or by taking it to the router table and using the fence and doing it kind of blind while checking it as I go.

[Bob Smalser]

Love knife hinges....but they can be tricky as you only get one shot at it.

The difficulty lies in aligning them, as the door can't be mounted until the mortises are cut...and once they are cut the only alternative for a mistake is to fill the mortise with thickened, dyed epoxy and recut it.

I fabricate a length of drill rod that'll fit in the hinge pin holes on the end.....and use it to align the door-mounted leaves first....then use it again to align the frame-mounted leaves. I always screw the the leaves down before scribing for the mortise, as making an alignment change only involves plugging a hole and redrilling.

[John Miliunas]

It should come as little surprise to most that, such a simple procedure has prior to this eluded me! :eek: Thanks much for the great tip! I have been using the steel screw tip for some time, but this temp. attachment before marking never occurred to me! Excellent. :)

[Mark Stutz]

Mark,
Again, thanks for taking the time to post this experience and to answer all my simple questions.

Bob,
I'm sure it's really simple but I'm having trouble visualizing . Maybe it's because I don't know what drill rod is. :o Are you describing something akin to using dowel centers?

Mark

[Mark Singer]

Knife hinges are difficult to locate accuratly. I have seen skilled woodworkers taking top and bottom rails arranging them side to side, laying them out with a fine square and the doore hang terrible. Why? Wrong technique! The doors are often not eactly the same. If they are coopered....there is no chance they are even close. That is why in my Bath cabinet thread I said let the doors tell you where the hinges go ! If you set booth doors in the opening at the same time with the outer edges trimed and a slight overlap at the center....scribe the top and bottom outer edges and that is where they should hang. This level of cabinet making should be precise and any fillers, epoxies should not be used. A single door is easier, much easier! A pair of flat doors, a bit harder, coopered doors are even more difficult , but this technique works well since it is not dependent on the accuracy of the door or cabinet to a large degree. If you build a really twisted cabinet...your on your own:D

[Bob Smalser]

Drill rod is a tool steel rod, usually 36" long, sold at McMaster Carr, your local steel jobber, hardware stores and Big Boxes.

Cut a piece of the smallest size you can find to length the distance between the hinges plus a quarter inch or so. Grind or turn the ends of the rod to fit the hinge pin holes...chuck it in an electric drill using a pierced board as a center steady and use a file.

That gives you a full-length centering jig to make sure those pin holes line up perfectly.

I've also done them without it....but knowing you are lined up perfectly before you cut the mortises eases peace of mind and speeds things up accordingly.


This level of cabinet making should be precise and any fillers, epoxies should not be used.

You are more than welcome to make an entire new coopered door to correct any mistakes...and perhaps go broke in the process ;)

Me? I'll fix it so nobody will ever know:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=7691&highlight=stock

[Byron Trantham]

Mark, excellent tip. The main thing I got from this thread is "it's not just me!" :D Hinges are a pain; period! :mad: