Window sash question

[aurelio alarcon]

I am going to be rebuilding a sash that has muntins for my uncle's house. Has anyone built any of these with muntins. If so, I would appreciate some direction. In addition to some direction, a website would be greatfully appreciated. I'm just not sure on how these muntins get inserted...dowels? mortise and tenon? Any ideas would be helpful since I cannot remove his old one until the new one is built (the absence of a window would let the cold in). I do know the dimension of the window, I just don't know how the muntins are cut and assembled into the rails and stiles. The window is of the casement style that swings open and swings closed. It has six glass panels. It is the muntins that hold or receive the glass panels is what I am unsure of. Thanks.

[Pat Monahan]

Aurelio
The easiest way I know of would be to build the muntin bars as an insert. In your case the window would be one large piece, not six panes, and the illusion of six "panes" would be created by 3 vertical members and 4 horizontal members, attached on the inside of the window. There are plastic clips available ( check any local window manufacturer) that are in two pieces. A hole is drilled in the muntin bar and the plastic ring is inserted in the bar. The second piece, the pin, is inserted through the plastic ring and into a hole drilled in the window frame. You only need 4 plastic clips per window, probably less than fifty cents per clip. I'm sure there are other ways to do this, but I have seen it done this way, looks about the easiest. BTW, having the muntin bar grid removable makes cleaning the windows much easier.
Hope this helps
Pat

[Jim Becker]

Although I agree with Pat's ascertion that a removable grill makes for easier cleaning, etc., it might not "look" right for a restoration, especially if there are other windows in the same space that need to be matched.

The biggest challenge you'll have being able to match, at least reasonably close, the profile of the existing stock. That will likely take some hand work and creativity...and some safety considerations while making them since it is unlikely you'll be able to mill replacements "two-sided" without special equipment and cutters. Think the process through. If you can post a drawing of the profile, folks may be able to make suggestions in that respect.

[Bob Smalser]

I am going to be rebuilding a sash that has muntins for my uncle's house. Has anyone built any of these with muntins. If so, I would appreciate some direction. In addition to some direction, a website would be greatfully appreciated. I'm just not sure on how these muntins get inserted...dowels? mortise and tenon? Any ideas would be helpful since I cannot remove his old one until the new one is built (the absence of a window would let the cold in). I do know the dimension of the window, I just don't know how the muntins are cut and assembled into the rails and stiles. The window is of the casement style that swings open and swings closed. It has six glass panels. It is the muntins that hold or receive the glass panels is what I am unsure of. Thanks.

Not difficult at all....as was mentioned, duplicating the molding is the hard part. I wouldn't change a single thing I didn't have to....to minimize the chances of my restoration looking mismatched with its mates.

Once you dismantle the window for repair, you'll see they are simply a series of M/T and sometimes bridle joints. Use the old ones as patterns to duplicate replacements. You'll need a dovetail saw, bevel gage and 1/8 and 1/4" chisels. And maybe a coping saw, if any of the tenon shoulders are coped. A miter box is handier than a chop saw for this, as you have a number of precise, partial cuts to make doing the tenons. Use clear, straight-grained pine or hard (Eastern Red) cedar heartwood with no sap. What you can do while waiting for the window is to make up the moldings needed to match.

The easiest way to do that on the small run of molding required is to make up a scratch stock....an old scraper blade is scribed to the profile of the molding and ground on your grinder. Get the edges dead square and mount it in a kerfed block of wood for a hand hold. Use your TS in the rip mode to bring your stock down to the rough profile of the the molding then the scratch stock to scrape it into the exact profile....the closer you get with the TS, the less scraping you'll have to do.

I can't find one for a pic....make the scratch stock to look like a try square so the handle indexes on one of the flats in the molding.

[aurelio alarcon]

Pat has a good idea, however, I do believe it might be difficult to make a match using this method. As Jim says, the profile will be the hardest part in making the match. Bob seems to have come up with an excellent solution. It will be difficult, but I will give it my best shot. (I never thought of doing it by such a method--I gues that is why I'm asking ). Thanks again.

[Jim Becker]

Aurelio, this is one of the wonderful things about an online community like this...folks like Bob remind us of some very practical methods that you just don't see in the mainstream anymore.

[aurelio alarcon]

Aurelio, this is one of the wonderful things about an online community like this...folks like Bob remind us of some very practical methods that you just don't see in the mainstream anymore.I couldn't agree with you more Jim. So simple that it is genius! Hey, you too, have provided me with many excellent methods to accomplish the many projects that I attempt and, ultimately, complete!