Help setting up GO690 with slider...

[Maik Tobin]

I am in the process of setting up my new GO690 with the slider attachment. The predrilled holes in the front fence rail assembly dont seem to provide the appropriate clearance to install the fence rails. Since this slider is supposed to be made for this saw, it would not seem reasonable that Grizzly would require the user to drill new holes....has any set up the slider with GO690 or 691?
I would be interested to hear how you avoided this issue.

[Jim O'Dell]

I haven't, but a question...is the left cast iron wing supposed to be on or off? I would guess off, but maybe check their web site for pictures to see for sure. If that is correct and your wing is on, then that could very well be the cause. Let us know!! Jim.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Maik,

On the front page of the manual it says....You may have to drill and tap holes. It also repeats that message later in the manual.

Did you remove the left wing on the saw as Jim asked?

You purchased a generic slider and as such you may have to adapt it to your particular saw.

[Maik Tobin]

Yes, the left wing is off. While I understand that the manual does say that it may require drilling holes...I guess I assumed that it would fit the Grizzly GO690 without modification.

[Jim O'Dell]

Maik, I'm with you on that. I thought it was specifically made for the 690/1. Don't remember if anything ever said it was though.
Going back to a thread talking about voiding warranty if modifications were made...I can't see how that would hold true, except if said modifications ruined a piece. Like say I drill some holes in my CI top, and in doing so, I knock a chunk of the CI out, ruining the top. That would not be a warranty situation. But if I drill a hole in the side to move the fence rail down, and the motor craters, I doubt that there would be any issues. If the slider requires holes to be drilled to mount, then I would say it would fall into the same category. Let us know what you end up having to do! Oh, and does this require moving the fence rails to the right to mount? Jim.

[Will Overton]

But if I drill a hole in the side to move the fence rail down, and the motor craters, I doubt that there would be any issues.

+1

The way Grizzly works is you call and say the motor crapped out, they send a new (maybe rebuilt) one and you return the dead one. The cast iron would not even come up in the conversation.

[Maik Tobin]

OK, I am really very glad that Grizzly is not open today. That will give me time to calm down. This setup is so poorly engineered that it must have been developed by a teenager.
The holes for the front rail simply do not line up in order for it to clear the slider attachment. OK. So I drill a couple of holes in the table and mount the rail, only to find out that the cutaway part of the rail under the miter slot now will not line up. And, there is no possible way it could. Next...the front rail extends approximately one foot further to the right than the rear rail....no biggie except it looks stupid. Next...because the rails are not synched front and back, the holes in the auxillary table do not line up....can not mount that now. And finally, now there is no place to mount the power switch. There are predrilled holes for it in the front fence, but since the fence had to be moved to the right to accomodate the slider, the holes are now directly in front to the wheel that raises and lowers the blade. Grizzly's webside shows the power mounted to the slider leg....but how???? Do I need to drill more holes????
What pisses me off the most is the fact that I was told by tech support that the slider was made for this saw. That was the reason I bought it rather than a 1023.
Tomorrow will be an interesting day. It will get resolved even if I need to talk to the company's president.

[Jim O'Dell]

Maik, sorry to hear of the problems. But you're in some luck, as the President of Grizzly frequents these pages. Oh, he is also the owner of the company. So if tech services can't help you, look up Shiraz Balolia in the member list under the community tab above and email him with your problems. He has always been very helpful with questions and problems for the members here. Jim.

[Joe Chritz]

I don't know about tech support but nothing in the literature indicates anything but a universal slider attachment for 27" deep saws.

If I remember correctly when I helped set up a slider attachment on a unisaw it called for cutting off the rail mount that was in the way, which would leave the cutout in the correct location. We ground in a new notch so the rail could be moved over to give a wider rip capacity.

Those are probably the only way to attach the fence rail. Either cut off what is in the way on the left or move the bracket and to the right and cut in new notches.

Neither of those seems unreasonable when installing a universal slider, especially when it specifically mentions it in the manual. If you were told you could bolt it on with no modifications to the rail then you do have a legitimate gripe about getting poor info.

Joe

[Van Huskey]

I don't know about tech support but nothing in the literature indicates anything but a universal slider attachment for 27" deep saws.


Joe

The catalog sure makes it seem as though it was designed for the 690/1:


http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2010/main/23


They make a poiint as saying "extremely easy installation".


One thing that may be an issue is the increasingly poor instruction/documentation that is coming from many companies. This seems to be more true in products from Asia, I have never understood why the documentation is not produced in the US, or if it is why it seems like it has been translated several times.

[Salem Ganzhorn]

From the picture it looks like they cut the front rail to fit (did not slide it down).

The page says "easy installation" and "extremely easy installation". If the kit doesn't come with a new front rail then I would say you have a valid gripe. Neither cutting rails or tapping the cast iron top for bolting it up is "easy" in my book.

Good luck! But don't panic yet, those guys are typically nice.
Salem

[Jeff Mackay]

I just finished installing the slider on the G0691. To install it, you need to remove the left extension wing, and either slide the rip fence rails down by about 8" or cut them off. I chose to cut them off because I didn't need the extra rip capacity and I didn't want to move/replace the rip scale. It only took a few minutes with an angle grinder.

The only things I have left to do with it are to mount the power switch to the slider's fixed table (which will require me to drill/tap holes in the slider's table), and align it. So far, I'm very happy with it. It's solid, no play to the sides at all; it slides effortlessly; comes with a reasonable miter guage; and allows me to crosscut a 4'x8' panel. It doesn't convert your saw into a true slider, but it does greatly expand crosscut capacity. Once I get it all set up, I'll post a more thorough review. Maybe you'll beat me to it :)

Jeff

[Maik Tobin]

I am going to take the front rail to work with me so I can cut it. I will call Grizzly first but what really irks me is the fact that they TOLD me that the slider was specifically made for the GO690/691 and that the pictures and marketing materials indicate that installation is a piece of cake. I was reluctant to cut the rail because if I ever wanted to take the slider off, I would need to buy a new set.

[Will Overton]

I was reluctant to cut the rail because if I ever wanted to take the slider off, I would need to buy a new set.


Only if you needed that extra rip capacity to the left of the blade, which is usually not the case.

Cutting the rails is not really a big deal. You probably spent more time posting about it on a couple of forums than it will take you to actually get it done. You need to relax, think about what you are doing, and then enjoy the saw for years to come.;)

[Maik Tobin]

Only if you needed that extra rip capacity to the left of the blade, which is usually not the case.

Cutting the rails is not really a big deal. You probably spent more time posting about it on a couple of forums than it will take you to actually get it done. You need to relax, think about what you are doing, and then enjoy the saw for years to come.;)

You are correct. I did just cut the rail and it will install easily tonite. My main gripe, however, is that I was told by Grizzly that the slider was manufactured for this saw and the literature indicates the ease of installation. Cutting the rail and tapping a couple of holes to mount the power switch hardly constitutes an easy installation. Is it difficult? No. But the folks at Grizzly could have/should have been far more knowedgable about the product than they obviously were. They should have said that they did not know and would get back to me.
I called Grizzly tech support this AM and talked with a person who had no clue how the unit mounts. I asked to speak to someone in authority and was told I would get a call back within 48 hours.....to be continued.

[Will Overton]

Cutting the rail and tapping a couple of holes to mount the power switch hardly constitutes an easy installation.

You make a good point. What some would consider easy, others would consider more difficult. So tonight you will get it done, tomorrow you'll get to vent at Grizzly, and all will be well with the world. :)

[Jeff Mackay]

You are correct. I did just cut the rail and it will install easily tonite. My main gripe, however, is that I was told by Grizzly that the slider was manufactured for this saw and the literature indicates the ease of installation. Cutting the rail and tapping a couple of holes to mount the power switch hardly constitutes an easy installation.

I agree. I think I bought one of the first units shipped a couple months ago. When I called support--probably with the same questions--they hadn't seen one yet. They sent me an "updated" manual a couple days later with the disclaimer that you might have to drill some holes to install it. I decided then that I'd just cut the ralis.

As far as I can tell, there is nothing about the sliding table that is specific to the G0690 series--except that the screw holes to mount the sliding table to the saw table are aligned for the 690. I imagine it would fit any table saw--you'll have to figure out how to either move or cut the rip fence rails, you may have to drill and tap some holes to mount the saw's power switch, and you may have to drill some holes in the sliding table to mount it to the saw table if you don't have a 690.

Despite the hassles with installation, I'm happy with it. I'd rather have the slider for crosscuts than a sled. The biggest problem for me is the hassle of drilling and tapping the holes to mount the power switch.

[Ray Bell]

All of this is very interesting considering that I was told by two Grizzly CS Reps, that even drilling a hole in my G0691 extension table to mount a router would void the warranty. Hope all goes well with these sliders, and I am looking forward to critiques, and pictures.

[Maik Tobin]

I spoke to a Tech Service Manager a couple of times today. I will say that thus far he has been pretty understanding. After checking the one in the showroom, he confirmed that they had cut the rail tube and mounted the power box under the slider. He also agreed that the manual is not particularly accurate in describing the installation to be easy. Since I don't have a metal cutting saw (other than a hack saw), I took the tube to a local machine shop my company uses and he cut the tube for me. Tonite I reinstalled the rail and tube and all went well. The slider went on fairly easy, but I am having some difficulty installing the fence. There does not seem to be enough thread on the "T-bar knurled lock handle".
Jeff, did you run into this?

[Jeff Mackay]

Tonite I reinstalled the rail and tube and all went well. The slider went on fairly easy, but I am having some difficulty installing the fence. There does not seem to be enough thread on the "T-bar knurled lock handle". Jeff, did you run into this?

Nope. The lock handle was fine. I did only install one of the two pivot handles so far...misplaced the other when remodeling the shop. I'm sure it will show up some day.

[Maik Tobin]

Well, I think I am all set. Sometimes you run accross a company whose employee goes the extra mile to turn a bad situation into a winner. A Grizzly Tech Support manager did just that. As a followup to my earlier posts, they are going to send me the parts necessary to correct my install, including the correct lock handle (the one I was sent was too short), a new bracket that will allow me to mount the power box to the slider, screws and a drill bit to accomplish that task along with a longer cord which is necessary for the box to even reach the mounting spot.
For anyone who will be buying this saw and slider combination, I was assured that there will be appropriate instructions, including cutting the rail tube posted on the Grizzly website.
Additionally, I was told that when I am ready to buy a bandsaw(G0513X2B) in the next month or so, he will make sure it is set up and inspected prior to shipping to me.
On Sunday I was ready to kill anyone from Grizzly....today I would absolutely buy from them again.

[Jim O'Dell]

and Shiraz didn't get involved????:eek: :D Maik, glad they proved me right. They are good people. Jim.

[Smith, David W.]

I just finished a set up of a G0690 w/Slider like the OP described. After working in the power tool industry as a District Sales Manager here in the Southeast for over 20 years, I was a little better prepared for the challenges of adapting the saw and the slider to each other.

First of all, I never believe the claims from the advertising no matter what. Most of the copy is written by a tech writer who knows little or nothing about the machines they are writing about. They are good writers but most couldn't saw a straight line with help.

Once the saw was set up I took on the slider. It mounted easily enough and aligning it to the table took some trial and error. A little shimming and it is now where it needs to be. Took about an hour.

The switch was a little harder. I expected to have to add more wiring to the motor but found there was adequate slack inside the cabinet to move the switch to a good location. I tilted the motor to 45 to make sure I didn't take to much wire.

I mounted the switch to the end of the slider with two bolts and used two washers as shims to clear the rib in the middle of the slider base. As it turns out, it is a great location.

I moved the angle fence mount down and added additional bolt holes as needed. I was hoping to not have to cut the tube off but had to so the mounting bolts would line up as in their stock locations. An added bonus is that I now have an extra 6 to 8 inches of riping capacity. (So, the front rail is a little longer than the back.)

I understand how this could be a challenge for some but I found it not as daunting. I expected problems and worked around what could have been difficult.

BTW I really enjoy the saw. Grizzly has done an excellent job with their machines and the others, Delta, PowerMatic and the like need to be looking over their shoulders. Grizzly is catching up. Although, the fence is a sincere disappointment! :mad: I have messed with it for three weeks now and it defies everything that I do to make it accurate and easy to use. It will be replaced soon!

Also, I purchased a G0490Z 8" jointer last year, a G0453Z 15" spiral head planer and a G1030Z2 dust collector when I moved to the new shop along with the G0690 saw.

[Salem Ganzhorn]

David, can you elaborate on the fence issues? I have the following frustrations:
1) the directions have you mount the front rail too high. If mounted ~1/8th lower the fence still would not touch the top but would provide less of a chance for thin stuff to get under it.
2) The UHMW attached to the fence is NOT flat. Not even close. After working with a similar material to make miter rails I am not convinced it is good stuff for a fence face. It distorts too easily. Someday I will get around to replacing mine.
3) The fence provides a means of adjusting the angle when unlocked. Ideally this would let you set the distance you want off the blade and locking it down would not move the fence. In practice I cannot get this to work. If I have it adjusted to the same angle unlocked as when locked the fence lo longer glides easily.

But the fence does not deflect and locks down at repeatably the same angle. Are you seeing something different?

Thanks!
Salem

[Smith, David W.]

Salem,

The Grizzly fence. Not even close to the quality of the saw itself.:mad:

I too found that the directions for mounting the front rail was wrong. Although I am not concerned about getting material stuck under it, the dimensions given just looked wrong. I did manage to adjust the slides under the fence that ride on the upper portion of the rails but there didn't seem to be enough adjustment to keep it sliding easily. And it doesn't slide as easily as other fences.

The plastic facing is a good idea, somewhat. It is slick and doesn't seem to bind letting the material to be cut slide easily past it. I can't vouch for its flatness, I've been to busy trying to get the fence to square.

When locking the fence to the measurement I have chosen, the fence deflects to the right 1/32 of an inch. (When locked down, the fence is parallel to the blade front and back. When loose, the rear of the fence is 1/32 closer to the rear. I have tried to adjust this out but it has defied all attempts.) I have literally adjusted it hundreds of times and it still moves when locking. The Beisemeyer fence I had on the older Delta this G0690 replaced was true to its measurement and never moved when locking it down.

Hey Grizzly! Get a fence that is equal to the saw! I will be buying a new Beisemeyer fence this week. Better yet, offer the saw without the sub-standard fence and let the consumer buy a better product.

Did I spell Beisemeyer correctly? Probably not.:confused:

[Salem Ganzhorn]

Thanks for the clarification. But good luck with the biesemeyer fence. I had one on my last saw and it suffered from the same issue: when locked down the angle changes slightly. And the biesemeyer does not have any means to adjust this. Worse the face was not square to the table and had a very slight amount of twist. No adjustments for this either.

I agree the fence does not slide smoothly if when trying to adjust out that angle you have both the front and the back buttons pressing on the rectangular rail. If you leave it a little looser it glides smoother than a biesemeyer. The biesemeyer actually rides on the table instead of using a button on the rear rail.

Good luck, I hope you get a keeper!

PS: I am not so concerned with getting material stuck under the fence (although it could happen if you don't have it adjusted parallel to the table top). But even ripping 1/4" material it is a problem. The fence rides > 1/8" off the table when adjusted as instructed in the manual. In this cut there is < 1/8" of material against the fence. The more material the better I think.
Salem

[Mike Heidrick]

You could clamp on a sub face to your fence when needed for cutting thin stock/plywood. Make it one inch thick and it will be easy to offset your measurements.

[Salem Ganzhorn]

This is what I do. And why I have not yet moved my front rail down :). Eventually I will move it so I can have < 1/16th clearance and skip the sub fence. To be clear I don't think there is anything really wrong with this aspect of the fence. Just an error in the instructions.

[Maik Tobin]

Not sure why mine was any different, but I was able to get the fence adjusted dead on. I have been very satisfied with the fence as well as the saw. A huge improvement over my contractor saw.