W. Butcher plane iron?

[Steve Stack]

Yesterday, while out with the wife I bought an old wooden plane (she got another cake platter) and the blade is marked W. Butcher, warranted cast steel and the no.7 on it. Cap iron says W. Butcher, Sheffield 7 on it. My question, is this a good iron for a user? It's in real good shape, little rust, no pitting, cleaned up just fine, excellent around the edge. The plane itself is 3 3/8 W X 25 1/2 long and pretty good shape but without any makers ID. Sorry I don't know how to post pix. So, is this a good iron? Thanks,
Steve

[Martin Cash]

Yes it should be.
Have a close look at the cutting edge. You may find that it is a laminated blade - ie it has a piece of superior steel laminated as the cutting edge along the back over a softer blade body.
Sharpen it and give it a go. Most blades from that era are excellent.

[Ken Werner]

Martin is right. Most likely a laminated iron. If it is hard to sharpen, you'll know it's hard steel. Ruler trick may be helpful.

[Jim Koepke]

Sorry I don't know how to post pix. So, is this a good iron? Thanks,
Steve

It is not real intuitive, but it is actually pretty easy to post pictures.

Here is a previous post on the subject:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=1435465#poststop

One thing I did not cover in that post is the attachment file upload panel that appears when you click the paper clip.

154385

When you click on "Choose File" you will have to navigate your computer's file structure to find the image you want to include.

If you have any questions, just ask.

jim

[David Keller NC]

Yesterday, while out with the wife I bought an old wooden plane (she got another cake platter) and the blade is marked W. Butcher, warranted cast steel and the no.7 on it. Cap iron says W. Butcher, Sheffield 7 on it. My question, is this a good iron for a user? It's in real good shape, little rust, no pitting, cleaned up just fine, excellent around the edge. The plane itself is 3 3/8 W X 25 1/2 long and pretty good shape but without any makers ID. Sorry I don't know how to post pix. So, is this a good iron? Thanks,
Steve

Yes, it's a superb iron possibly only exceeded in quality by I. Sorby's "Punch" brand in the late 19th century. Butcher irons are also collectible, btw.

[Tom Vanzant]

I picked up a wooden plane in TN last year, 3 1/4" x 22", w/closed tote. The plane is an A. McKenzie/Aberdeen and the iron is a Robt Sorby, 2 1/2", tapered laminated. The plane is intact and in very good "as used" condition, and the iron & breaker are complete and original with minor peening on the end. Paid $60.
I also have a John Mosley & Son/London plane of the same size and condition, also marked A.N. Sharp, except no iron. Paid $50.

[Steve Stack]

Thanks everyone, now, is there any difference in the way you sharpen a laminated iron? Also, I've read where you can flatten the sole of a wooden plane similar to metal planes by sanding on a flat surface. Any reason not to just run it over a power jointer? Forgive me if this is heresy but I'm new to all of this hand tool stuff and just want to get a useable jointer plane. Feel free to laugh and/or criticize, just help me get my bearings here so I'm a little less lost.
Thanks, Steve

[Bill White]

I have many W. Butcher hand tools, and they are all top quality. The cast steel designation does not mean that the iron was cast to shape but fabricated from an ingot/billet of cast steel. The tools will sharpen beautifully and perform well. Not as hard as some of the new stuff available today, but you can sure hone to a mirror finish easily with Japanese water stones.
Bill

[David Keller NC]

Thanks everyone, now, is there any difference in the way you sharpen a laminated iron?

Nope, just flatten the back and hone the bevel.


Also, I've read where you can flatten the sole of a wooden plane similar to metal planes by sanding on a flat surface. Any reason not to just run it over a power jointer?

I would not recommend running a wooden jointer plane over a powered jointer - the power tool will simply remove way too much of the tool's sole. Sandpaper stuck to the jointer's outfeed table would be far better. Remember that you must have the iron and wedge in the plane and properly tightened up before you flatten the sole - the wedge/iron exerts pressure on the body that will slightly warp it.


Forgive me if this is heresy but I'm new to all of this hand tool stuff and just want to get a useable jointer plane. Feel free to laugh and/or criticize, just help me get my bearings here so I'm a little less lost.
Thanks, Steve

No worries - all of us had to start at the bottom, no matter what our current skill level is.

[James Taglienti]

i've run quite a few planes over my powered jointer and they all look great. you can set the depth of cut, you know.

also i don't know if i'd sand it, and embed grit into the sole. a powered jointer followed by a scraping or very gentle planing is the ticket for me.

[David Keller NC]

i've run quite a few planes over my powered jointer and they all look great. you can set the depth of cut, you know.

also i don't know if i'd sand it, and embed grit into the sole. a powered jointer followed by a scraping or very gentle planing is the ticket for me.

My strong preference is to actually true the sole with another plane, taking no more than about 50 thousandths off at the corners and 10 thousandths at the mouth, but since Steve doesn't have a plane, the sandpaper seemed the more expedient choice.

Generally speaking, I can't really accurately set my powered jointer to take off less than about 1/32nd of an inch - it's too coarse of an adjustment.

But... Steve might want to review Bob Smalser's take on re-habbing a really out-of-flat plane:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=8351