Going a little neander - please help

[Brian W Evans]

I am a dedicated power tool guy but, due to a move from a house to a condo, I'll have to be without my planer, jointer, and table saw for a couple of years. I'd like to use this time to hone my neander skills, but I need some advice.

I have a bandsaw for ripping, a SCMS for crosscutting, routers, and other power tools. I also have a decent set of bench chisels, a #4 smooth plane, a rabetting block plane, a LV apron plane, and the means to sharpen all of them.

So, my question is this: What do I need to add to this setup in order to do some basic flattening/squaring of stock? I will likely stick to smaller pieces like boxes and such, so I'm hoping to avoid a #7 or #8 jointer plane.

Any other suggestions for neander equipment would be welcome, as well.

Thanks.

[Sean Hughto]

You cannot four square or thickness stock with what you've listed (at least not easily). But to use planes to do those tasks you need a workbench capable of securing your work. With a bench, I think you'll need a 5 and a 7. Personally, I'd want a scrub too. Decent users of all three together could be had for around $250 or less. Add another $125, if you want replacment blades for each.

[Jim Koepke]

If your projects are fairly small, you may get by with just a #5 or #6 to go with the #4. You may also want to invest in a good low angle block plane. My feeling is the smaller the piece being worked on, the nicer it is to have a smaller plane to work on it. If the piece of wood is only 6" long, a #3 is almost like a jointer.

Other tools that will always come in handy are a brace or two and bits. An egg beater style drill and bits are also handy.

If you want to do some ornamentation on your work, a plane that can do beading and plowing is always nice.

Of course, there are all the marking knives, squares and saws to consider. The saw choices would depend again on how big your projects are and what kind of joinery you plan to use.

jim

[Brian W Evans]

Thanks for the replies so far. I'll add some clarification and say that I have a workable bench, loads of clamps, a marking knife, plenty of squares and other marking/measuring tools, and a drill press. Really, I've just never wanted or needed to mill (not sure if this is the right term for hand tools) stock by hand and don't know what I'll need in order to do it.

Thanks again.

[Sean Hughto]

While you wouldn't need to do all of the things described in this article (you can cross cut with your miter saw, etc.), some of the commentary and the planing techniques discussion might give you some idea. None of it is hard, but it can be sort of daunting to figure it out alone in your shop.

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/Standing_Desk_Part_2_18th-Century_Stock_Prep/

[Brian W Evans]

Thanks for the replies so far. I've done some reading and it seems like most articles recommend a jointer, a jack, and a scrub plane in addition to the smoother I already have. Does this seem workable?

My next dilemma is this: Veritas or Lie-Nielsen. My rabetting block plane and my #4 are both LN and I love the weight and the craftsmanship. I also own a LV apron plane which works very well and is well made, but I'm reluctant to base the purchase of a "real" plane on the quality of their apron plane. I've seen many recommendations for the LV bevel-up planes here, but they look so much less substantial than their LN counterparts and they weigh less as well. Any thoughts on which way I should go? The price difference between LV and LN on three planes is about $400, which is significant but not a deal breaker.

Thanks again.

[Sean Hughto]

It's really personal preference, both will do the job fine. So will vintage Stanley's, Miller's Falls, Sargents, etc. The vintage planes, even really clean ones with LN replacement blades would be WAY cheaper than either LN or LV. Then again, if you buy the LNs and decide hand tools ain't for you, you could sell them used for nearly what you paid (sometimes more!).

[john brenton]

I don't have a "scrub" plane. I've got a wooden jack plane with a few different interchangeable plane irons with different degrees of camber that cost me about $5-10 a piece. It works just fine.

Even though you may have a "workable" bench you should look into the various little appendages that are must haves for flattening lumber: ie. birdmouth style stop or board jack, holdfasts, etc.

As far as the planes go, I make it a rule to never have tools that look better than the work that I do. Hence, I don't foresee adding "Lie-Nielsons" to the collection any time soon.


Thanks for the replies so far. I've done some reading and it seems like most articles recommend a jointer, a jack, and a scrub plane in addition to the smoother I already have. Does this seem workable?

My next dilemma is this: Veritas or Lie-Nielsen. My rabetting block plane and my #4 are both LN and I love the weight and the craftsmanship. I also own a LV apron plane which works very well and is well made, but I'm reluctant to base the purchase of a "real" plane on the quality of their apron plane. I've seen many recommendations for the LV bevel-up planes here, but they look so much less substantial than their LN counterparts and they weigh less as well. Any thoughts on which way I should go? The price difference between LV and LN on three planes is about $400, which is significant but not a deal breaker.

Thanks again.