Euro guides on MM20 with 1/4" blade?

[Will Blick]

I have kept my MM20 with 1" Resaw blade on. But I will finally have to change the blade for some tight cutting curves, I will probably go with a 1/4" blade. I am using the factory installed Euro Guides...

For a 1/4" blade, are these Euro guides suitable? They don't seem well suited for a small blade... I would think the cool blocks are the way to go...but I would hate to have to change them in / out every time I change the blade... any input would be appreciated...

[Stephen Cherry]

I've tried a small blade on my euroguided saw, and it didn't seem too well supported and I haven't tried it again.

Since then I bought s scroll saw, which cuts curves without a hitch, costs less (from craigslist) than a new set of guides for the bandsaw, and can cut interior inside patterns (by drilling a hole, and placing the blade through the hole).

[Andrew Joiner]

This may help.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=108511

[Van Huskey]

I have never had good luck supporting a small blade with Euro-guides. I would suggest if Carter has a stabilizer kit or one that would adapt get it. There is nothing better for using 1/4" and smaller blades, it will give you a whole new outlook on what is possible with narrow blandes.

[Scot Ferraro]

The Euro-guides should work with 1/4 inch blade, you just need to adjust them back to ensure the teeth will not hit the roller. 3/8 might be better if you do not need the radius. You can get retro-fit cool blocks for this style too or make your own with dowels.

Scot

[Will Blick]

Thanks for the great responses....

I am curious if anyone makes cool blocks which fit inside the Euro guides, this seems like the easiest and best solution. Carters web site shows nothing...

Short of that, I like the idea of making them. I can get the the support to go right up under the table, should support the thin blade well... and as suggested, I may want to go with 3/8" vs. 1/4" blade to be safe... there is a lot more meat to support on a 3/8" blade vs. 1/4".

In the thread Andrew quoted....

lignum vitae, I'm using phenolic

since that was an old thread... is there ready made cool block material that I can hack up to use? That would seem ideal.... as I assume this material is the by far the best to use. If not, is Teak the best wood to use for wood guides? Ultra hard and oily... just guessing.

If I was to make the cool blocks from wood, I would assume the wider the better as it will dissipate heat better..

any additional input would be appreciated... thanks...

[Will Blick]

Stephen.... forgot to mention... Yes, I have a scroll saw as well, and this is a great option as you suggest...but in this case, I will be cutting some thick hardwood, and the scroll saw does not have enough power...

[james bell]

I have a MM16 and tried using cool blocks with a 1/4". Worked fairly well but ended up breaking the blade. I since retrieved my old Sears 12" and have it set up for smaller blades and like you, keep the 1" resaw on the MM16.

I have seen the Sears 12" on craigs list for $75 - good deal if you are going to use thin blades, as the price of the blades could pay for it.

[Philip Johnson]

It seems to me that MM has some cool blocks or something for their band saws. Give them a call seems I remember the sales person mentioning them when I bought mine.

Phil

[Philip Johnson]

Will I was out in the shop having a slow day so started playing with the MM band saw. Had a 3/8 blade in it from the last job and had trouble with the guides. Your post got me thinking about what to use for a guide. I took some 1/4 inch thick wood about an inch and a half by 2 inches and drilled a 1 and 1/8 hole about half way thru with a fostener bit, it fit snuggly over the bearing and snugged it down on the blade, got a little warm so sprayed a little wd40 on it and it seemed to run just fine and cooler. I also backed the lower guide off and left that loose. I cut up some 6/4 oak I had laying around and the cut was very good. If you don't have a lot to cut it maybe all you need.

The other option MM does have a cool block guide. If you go to their website they have some videos on the MM16, about half way thru he shows the cool block guide. You just swap the whole guide assy. takes a minute. Not sure how spendy it is.

Phil

[Will Blick]

Phillip, glad I stimulated a project for you :-)

Thanks for the tip, I watched the video and saw the MM guide blocks....not a big deal to change.... but my guess is, using wood blocks would be just as effective...and I can make them a bit longer vs. the cool blocks in the video... offering more blade support, specially from underneath the table.

I am curious what height wood would you resaw with a 3/8" or even a 1/4" blade? TimberWolf sells some very thin kerf blades, ......

Timber Wolf makes the world's only thin-kerf, low tension, silicon steel bandsaw blades that will outlast your old carbon steel blades by a mile! Your bandsaw will cut better and faster, with less wear on bearings, shafts and tires. Tooth angles and gullet symmetries, combined with a unique set pattern, create a blade that is everything a wood-cutting blade was meant to be. Blade has over 60% of the speed capabilities of a hook blade while giving you the great finish of a skip. The round design of the gullet eliminates any work hardening zones. Couple that with the special 6.5° rake, 5-tooth set pattern, and .025" thick thin-kerf blade and you have an awesome bandsaw blade!

I am quite impressed with this .025" kerf... maybe I have been living under a rock, but I never realized how thin the kerfs are on some of these blades. This is why I am curious what height resaw these thinner blades can handle... less waste is a good thing...oh yeah, less dust also :-)

[Will Blick]

I ordered a 1/4" Timberwolf and 2 of the 3/8" blades for my MM20....
I just got the Lingum Vitae wood to build the guides.... gosh is it ever HARD...first time I ever handled it.... specific gravity is approaching that of alum.

this should be an interesting experiment.... thanks for all the input, I will keep ya posted...