Sears 22124 220V Hook up

[Billy Alexander]

I just got a used 22124 in great condition. I want to run it on 220V. Others have said "you just have to change one connection to convert to 220" I'm sure that is correct and straight forward. My question is: the owners manual states that you have to change to a cord rated for 220. Can I use the supplied cord or do I need to get a dryer type cord/220V cord?

Thanks

Billy Alexander

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Billy, check that the wire cord is rated for 300 volts. It will be marked on the exterior of the cord.

You can cut the cord cap (male plug) off the cord and install a suitable 250V rated cap, available at Home depot etc.

The motor will require more than one connection change, it will be shown in the manual or marked on the motor.

Regards, Rod.

[Joe Chritz]

It has been a while since I converted any of my motors to 220 but generally it is a matter of a couple wiring switches and a cord plug end change.

New bulk rubber cord is cheap so if you can't tell just go buy a chunk but the existing cord should have some marking somewhere still visible.

Joe

[scott spencer]

Billy - I converted my 22124 to 220v. I made the wiring changes in the junction box according to the schematic, and added a 220v plug on the end of the stock cord to match the 220v outlet. That was it. I can't saw with 100% certainty that's all you need to do, but it worked like a charm for mine and made a noticeable improvement in startup speed and recovery time on this particular saw in my shop.

[Tony Shea]

I agree that the supplied cord should be sufficient as long as you add the proper 220V cord end on it. By converting your machine to 220V you are essentially lowering the amperage draw of the motor and keeping the same power output (wattage) which in turn equates to smaller gauge wire. Think of the wire like a water line, less water the smaller the pipe.
This is also the reason that all of our high voltage power lines are such a high voltage. We are able to ship power all over the country at extremely high voltages and keep all these lines at a reasonable size diameter as there is less current running through them than if they were at lower voltages. It also cuts down of voltage drops across long distance of wire as well. But by creating higher voltages you are also creating a greater potential of power depending of what the load does or if there is a short circuit, huge amperage draws.

Sorry for rambling as I am interested in electricity and like sharing a little knowledge once in a while about it. My basic point is that your cord should be more than adequet enough if it was preveously wire for 120V. The motors nameplate should give you an ampererage draw at each voltage and you'll notice the 220V will be less.

[Stephen Cherry]

While you are upgrading your plug, why not live a little and get a nice SO rated power cord?

These have a nicer jacket, and more flexible conductors.

Something like this:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_244476-295-55666144_4294858489_?productId=3136511&Ntt=wire&Ntk=i_products

Of course you don't need the whole roll.

[glenn bradley]

I used the same cord. The switch does open both poles so that's nice. I switched back and forth a few times during shop re-arrangements. On a dedicated 110v or dedicated 220v circuit there is no performance difference, if that helps at all. I've left mine on 110 at this point in time.

[Billy Alexander]

Thanks to all who have posted. I'm a newbie to the forum and its great! Glenn, I'm surprised you've noticed no performance difference as others have said the 220 hookup is more "powerful". It would seem to be less strain on the windings of the motor given less amps flowing through them in the least?

Billy

[scott spencer]

Thanks to all who have posted. I'm a newbie to the forum and its great! Glenn, I'm surprised you've noticed no performance difference as others have said the 220 hookup is more "powerful". It would seem to be less strain on the windings of the motor given less amps flowing through them in the least?

Billy

Billy - Every circuit and situation is a little different, so I'm not surprised at all that Glenn didn't notice a difference if his 120v circuit is all that it's supposed to be...many aren't. A 220v circuit (aka 240v) tends to be a dedicated line (which helps), plus it tends to have less voltage loss (which also helps), but in theory a dedicated 120v circuuit that's delivering full power should perform the same as a 220v line. It just depends on several other factors.

The windings see the same power regardless of the configuration...they're either wired in parallel or in series.

[Stephen Cherry]

Any power cord should be rated for the full current of the breaker that comes before it.

For example, if you hook up a saw to a circuit with a 30 amp breaker, the power cord needs to be rated for 30 amps, regardless of how much current the saw normally uses. So if the saw comes with a power cord suitable to plug in to a 15 amp outlet, and you plug it into something like a 30 amp dryer circuit, the power cord is not protected from overload.

As I said in an earlier post, in my opinion, power cords are not the place to save a buck.

[glenn bradley]

Glenn, I'm surprised you've noticed no performance difference as others have said the 220 hookup is more "powerful".

As Scott pointed out, many opinions about 220v being more "powerful" may come from folks using whatever 110v outlet happened to be in the garage (probably running the lights, an old refridgerator and who knows what) as opposed to a properly provisioned breaker, wire and outlet. They then convert to 220v, hook up a properly run circuit and . . . Amazing! . . its so much better :D:D:D. As a wise man once said; "watts is watts". Regardless of all that, your cord will do fine. If you go 220/240, these style of plugs have worked very well for me as my outlets are about 48" off the ground. I have not found them in my area for 110v.