Frame Saw Blades

[Rick Rutten]

When asking about getting a bandsaw in another thread the suggestion of a frame saw was mentioned. I read Bob's blog about using a frame saw for ripping http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=475 mentioned by John.

What would be a good source of blades when building such a saw? It seems bandsaw blades are not a good option. I am watching several D7s on e-bay but would be very hesitant to cut up their blades for an experiment. I was thinking of getting one of the Shark Teeth saws from HD and cutting that to size with a dremel. Any other ideas?

I am also going to give a standard hand saw for ripping a shot too. I am not too sure how I will fare with 8' logs, 8" in diameter. I have stored quite a few Snickers bars around my waist. It is just converting them to energy that is the issue.

Rick

[Tony Shea]

Good question. I also would be interested in a good blade choice if I was to make a frame saw for resawing. Mostly would be resawing hardwoods unlike what was in the blog posted above. I would think that bandsaw blades of the proper size, shape, and tpi would be a good option and little more economical compared to using older Disston's cut down. I'd hate to think I would have to purchase a few decent Disston handsaws only to cut the blades off of a perfectly good saw, murder if you ask me. I wouldn't even think about chopping the blade off my Disston or my recenlty aquired beautiful Simonds saw. Very interesting thought about resawing by hand as I never really thought about doing it, thinking I have got to get me a bandsaw soon to resaw some of my beautiful lumber I have lying around.

[Mike Olson]

go to a flea market and seek out the old tools guy(s). tell them you are interested in just some large saws for the metal. Let them know you don't care about the handle, you just want the metal. give them some excuse like, heard they are a cheap source for decent scrapers or such. Some will keep their eye out for one, some have them at home they will bring in next week, etc. they are cheap cause they can't sell them for real saws.

I did this once and got 2 saw blades. don't know the makers and they had a few broken teeth and a bend in one so I didn't used them for my frame saw "which is still on my to-do list", but i have used the metal for other stuff. cost me $4.00 for the two.

[greg Forster]

McMaster-Carr, get 4"x 36" x .030 1095 spring steel; cut 3 1/2 TPI rip, a little set, mount in frame, you're done

[harry strasil]

This thread shows the making of a framed veneer saw.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=112404&highlight=birth

And this video shows useing a framed rip saw. It takes some getting used to and you will develop strong wrists, as it's all in using the wrists.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/th_ripping01.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/?action=view&current=ripping01.flv)

[Tony Shea]

Thanks for that Harry, that vid and thread is excellent in my aim to find a great frame saw. These are a great inspiration for me and looks to perform beautifully. And great job on your saw, an extremely useful tool. Wish I had the skills to pull off that type of work, I sure don't lack in ambition though and will absolutely be robbing off of your design if it's ok. Luckily I have a nice little selection of old used saws at my local Tool Barn in Hulls Cove Maine (actually Bar Harbor Maine).

[Bob Easton]

... I would think that bandsaw blades of the proper size, shape, and tpi would be a good option and little more economical compared to using older Disston's cut down. ....

Just say NO to using bandsaw blades in frame saws. For any serious work, they will be a big disappointment. One, they are too narrow for good directional control. Two, the tooth geometry is fine for powered use where the power is constant and always at the same angle, but absolutely terrible for hand powering. Put another way, they are too flimsy for good control and the teeth are the wrong shape.

Mike Olson has a fine idea. Pick up older saws at yard sales. Of course, be ready to retooth and sharpen them.

As for "murdering" a Disston, why shouldn't one make the best tools they can? I think that includes using material from the best saws around. As an aside, that Disston provided for a great frame saw, several top-notch scrapers, a handful of scratches for scratch stocks and there's still some of it left. I find that as pretty good value, not murder.

[harry strasil]

I have found that filing the teeth 90° to the saw and a 3 to 5° fleam angle with a narrow set works the best for me about 4.5 to 5 ppi.

[harry strasil]

The Narrower the set the harder it is to get off the line, Ie. a big wide kerf makes for a very crooked row for planting, I set my saws the thickness of a sheet of copy paper on each side by tapeing copy paper to a smooth jawed vise and carefully squeezing the whole length of the blade for a very even and narrow set. The teeth points actually cut thru the paper and when the rest of the smooth vise jaw comes in contact with the main part of the blade, you end up with a very even and narrow set.

[harry strasil]

You don't cut up priceless or good hand saws, look for a medallion that says "warranteed superior", these are the lower priced saws that all the companies made and will usually have their name, Disston, Atkins etc with the "warranteed superior", around here they can be picked up for a couple of dollars apiece.

[Larry Marshall]

If you'd rather buy a blade than make one, check Highland Woodworking:

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/bow-saw-frame-saws-blades.aspx

Cheers --- Larry "aka Woodnbits"

[harry strasil]

Technically speaking those bow saws are a type of framed saw, but trying to rip a straight line with all the weight offset from the center makes it a challenge.

Here is Roger Nixon of Traditional Tools using my Frame Rip Saw at the Museum at Hiawatha, Ks on Oct 6,2006 for living history days.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/rogernixonripping.jpg

I think this was Rogers first time using a Frame Rip Saw.

For me 4inch + per stroke is not hard in 3/4 pine like is shown. Roger was a bit cautious for his first time. LOL

[Rick Rutten]

Wow these are some wonderful posts with great information!

I had forgotten about McMaster-Carr. They appeared in one of the other threads for a source of blades. A blank of spring tempered stainless, 5' long, 0.025" thick, 3" wide is $37. That seems a bit steep. Am I looking up the right stuff? Here is the link I followed: http://www.mcmaster.com/#spring-tempered-stainless-steel/=7o56ao

Highland WW has a 26" rip blade but it is 9 tpi. I guess I could joint then retooth.

Rick

[greg Forster]

Rick, look for 1095 spring steel; still going to run $30 cost. I made my first frame saw from a Craftsman 30" miter box saw

[harry strasil]

FWIW, one of my favorite saws and also one of the first I made for myself, I used a strip of wide strapping, (that black/blue thin metal they use to strap or band everything for transport now!) And its held up well thru the years.