Banksia projects...

[Tim Rinehart]

Well, I just finished the S/P Shaker last night. I'm not looking for any kudos on originality for the salt/pepper shaker, as this is essentially the same as what was used as pic for the salt/shaker kits at Craft Supplies...but that being said, I think my execution was better in getting all the 'banksia fuzz' gone and then sealing around the eyes well than was in their marketing shot.

I'm sure I spent more time just taking a burr on my dremel to clean out the inside gunk from the eyes and to provide a bit more depth when looked inside them to the clear container holding salt/pepper, than doing the rest of the pod shaping and coring.
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Ironically, I gave $1 for the pod, which was 'squared off' on the sides, saving a little turning. I'm just playing around with using these and getting the finish right on small scale stuff, as I'm working on thinking up something for a whopper pod that stands over a foot tall. They finish nicely, I used one coat of Danish oil only...and will leave that way. Haven't tried seeing impact of gloss on these yet. I'll probably try something else on another smaller pod I have first...the whoppers aren't easy to come by and go fast, though not terribly expensive. (here in the USA of course 'mate...you Aussies out there go gloat all you want!! ;))

I had the pleasure of seeing David Datwyler turn a pod during a demo last year at one of our clubs, and he is really outstanding in what he does, not just with banksia pods.
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The standing pod vessel is one I did after seeing his demo. It stands about 8" tall and uses ebony for lid/base and supports. (spent more time on supports than entire pod assembly)

Comments welcome. Thanks all.

[bob svoboda]

Tim. Very nice work. I saw some pods at WC the other day and passed them up. Hmm, may need to rethink. Thanks for sharing.

[Edward Bartimmo]

Tim,

Nice work. I have a couple of questions that maybe you can help with. I have collected a few of these pods over the years. My initial turning experience with one has resulted in them sitting on a shelf or in the attic. I used a 3/4" bowl gouge to turn down the outside "shell". It was a jarring experience reminiscent of mesquite burl that got hit by lightning...I think a chuck of granite would have been easier on the tools and me. After I got through the outer shell I was faced with the mighty fuz.

My questions are;
1) What is best method to get past the shell? Using the bandsaw to cut off outside shell before turning?
2) How much of the center is turned away to get past the fuz? Is this a matter of there always being fuz but just turning enough away that the fibers are more densely packed together?

Thanks,
Edward

[Thom Sturgill]

Nice work. I saw David at the NC symposium last year, and m the LOML bought me a set of 4 for our anniversary last Sept. Still haven't touched them though.
I really like the second picture, although I'm not quite as fond of the finial itself. Maybe just a bit too straight on the shaft.

[Toney Robertson]

Nice looking items Tim.

The second one is just cool. Nice design and execution. I do agree with Thom, I think a curve in the finial would have been an enhancement.

Is this your entry for the art challenge?

Toney

[Tim Rinehart]

Thanks for the comments guys, appreciated.


Nice looking items Tim.

The second one is just cool. Nice design and execution. I do agree with Thom, I think a curve in the finial would have been an enhancement.

Is this your entry for the art challenge?

Toney

The vessel is something I did last year, with about 6 months of turning under my belt...and no appreciation for what a finial should look like...so I'm not going to disagree with any suggestions on it...nice thing about finials...they aren't permanent! ;) I already have an entry...and this wouldn't qualify on its date of creation.



Tim,

My initial turning experience with one has resulted in them sitting on a shelf or in the attic. I used a 3/4" bowl gouge to turn down the outside "shell". It was a jarring experience reminiscent of mesquite burl that got hit by lightning...I think a chuck of granite would have been easier on the tools and me. After I got through the outer shell I was faced with the mighty fuz.

My questions are;
1) What is best method to get past the shell? Using the bandsaw to cut off outside shell before turning?
2) How much of the center is turned away to get past the fuz? Is this a matter of there always being fuz but just turning enough away that the fibers are more densely packed together?

Thanks,
Edward

These aren't something that just beg to be turned...they claw and hold on to their very existence. I've been using a 3/4" roughing gouge to get down to the good stuff, past all the fuzz. I sharpen frequently, use a face mask (normal for roughing anyway) and I run the dust collector local pickup to help.

If you're picking these up and can hand pick them, try to avoid ones that have inconsistent shape, like little valleys, that require you to turn that much more good stock away to get to a healthy sub layer. Let me know if that doesn't make sense, I can probably take a couple pics later of ones that are superb and others that aren't, in this respect.

[Allen Neighbors]

Tim,
My questions are;
1) What is best method to get past the shell? Using the bandsaw to cut off outside shell before turning?
2) How much of the center is turned away to get past the fuz? Is this a matter of there always being fuz but just turning enough away that the fibers are more densely packed together? Thanks,
Edward

Edward, I never saw the shell... I guess... mine I received from a friend in Oz were just the Banksia Pods.
The fuzz was only about 1/8 to 3/16" thick on mine, and then it was hard as granite, like Tim said. I use high speed, and very light cuts when turning banksia pods.

Tim, those are very nice! I really like the lidded artwork!! Nice going!!:)

[David E Keller]

Nicely done. I really like the lidded form with legs.

One question: What's your process for sanding and finishing these things? Your finish looks flawless which is distinctly different from the one I turned about a year ago.:mad:

[John Keeton]

Tim, very nice work on both, but particularly well done on the form and stand!! Really like the shape of the legs/stand.

While you are answering questions, what method of connection did you use to fasten the legs to the form, and how did you assure proper alignment and placement?

[Norm Zax]

Tim, excellent execution. My favourite is the standing one... and my question: how do you secure the pods for turning? Make a tiny tenon?
Thanks!

[Tim Rinehart]

Thanks for the comments, again. I realized there were a couple questions that didn't get answered...


Nicely done. I really like the lidded form with legs.

One question: What's your process for sanding and finishing these things? Your finish looks flawless which is distinctly different from the one I turned about a year ago.:mad:

David, the key part of the process is probably the application/sanding of CA glue ... AFTER the primary outside shape has been established, and before doing ANY hollowing. Be sure to clean out as much of the gunk from inside the eyes using needle files, pics, whatever. Next, slowly turning the piece on the lathe, drizzle some medium CA over the entire surface, and using your fingers/hand (I use a nytril glove...David Datwyler uses nothing) to get the CA to a 'tacky' texture, not completely dry...not runny. When it is tacky, lightly sand with 120 grit to work some material into the crevices. This will fill most the little voids, but will also have desired affect of stabilizing the eyes from popping out when hollowing.

My final finish on the three legged pod was probably wipe on satin poly...my finish of choice last year...the salt/pepper shakers are done with natural Danish oil, my finish of choice right now.


Tim, very nice work on both, but particularly well done on the form and stand!! Really like the shape of the legs/stand.

While you are answering questions, what method of connection did you use to fasten the legs to the form, and how did you assure proper alignment and placement?

John, thanks for the complements. I'm sure you realize more time was spent on the legs than the rest!
The legs are simply CA glued to the pod...however, it took some time to determine the best 3 places, symmetrical around the pod, to attach them all to solid surface and not into eye holes. To get the contour just right on the interface, I eyeballed as close as I could using a sander, then I set up a horizontal platform next to the piece while still between centers, setting a leg on it and bringing it up in line with where it would be placed. By using a long skinny strip of 120 grit sandpaper facing away from the vessel, but with paper side against vessel. By pulling the sandpaper up, contouring the support attach points, it forms the contour perfectly. You have to really look close at this piece to see any gap at all where they intersect the vessel, and it hasn't come loose in over 6 months.


Tim, excellent execution. My favourite is the standing one... and my question: how do you secure the pods for turning? Make a tiny tenon?
Thanks!

Norm, thank you. The pod was held using a combination of a small waste block and a piece of ebony big enough to take some of the forces of hollowing. Once most hollowing was completed, I turned the ebony base down. The last thing was to mount the top of the vessel, which wasn't hollowed thru, but only cleaned up transition after gluing in place.

Hardest thing is finding good bands of solid pod to mount the base and tops to, if using other materials. If not solid at meeting point...you see any tenon used in mating piece...kinda ruining the effect.

Thanks again to all for the comments. I'm working on an experiment now with a pod...hopefully I'm able to get it completed and will post pics when done.