Dresser construction querstions

[Jim German]

I'm going to be starting a new project in a couple of days, a dresser/changing table for my incoming kid. I'm pretty new to woodworking, and had a couple of questions on the design/construction of the dresser. I plan on pretty much copying a dresser that I liked at Buy Buy Baby out of Cherry, and noticed a few things that I thought were odd.

First the drawers were dovetailed, which I know is the preferred method. However I don't have a dovetail jig, and don't think I have the skill/patience to do them by hand, so I plan to use a lock miter joint instead. Does anyone see any issues with this?

Second, the drawer fronts were back beveled on the sides. What is the purpose of this?

The drawer sides were made of plywood, is it ok to make them out of a solid wood like popular instead?

Lastly, the drawer compartments on the inside were all separated by plywood. Is this necessary for any reason?

Thanks!

[Rod Sheridan]

I'm going to be starting a new project in a couple of days, a dresser/changing table for my incoming kid. I'm pretty new to woodworking, and had a couple of questions on the design/construction of the dresser. I plan on pretty much copying a dresser that I liked at Buy Buy Baby out of Cherry, and noticed a few things that I thought were odd.

First the drawers were dovetailed, which I know is the preferred method. However I don't have a dovetail jig, and don't think I have the skill/patience to do them by hand, so I plan to use a lock miter joint instead. Does anyone see any issues with this?

Second, the drawer fronts were back beveled on the sides. What is the purpose of this?

The drawer sides were made of plywood, is it ok to make them out of a solid wood like popular instead?

Lastly, the drawer compartments on the inside were all separated by plywood. Is this necessary for any reason?

Thanks!

Hi Jim, although dovetailed drawers are considered the gold standard, adhesives available today do not need the mechanical strength of dovetails.

I've made drawers with rebate/dado, finger, and lock mitre joints with no issues.

I don't back bevel the drawer fronts.

I do prefer solid wood for drawer components however I have made them from Baltic Birch plywood with a solid wood edge glued on.

The plywood dust frames between the drawers aren't necessary, I normally make open frames.

One comment I have is that I wouldn't consider a changing table fine furniture, as I personally would dispose of it once the child rearing days are over.

For that reason, I would use ball bearing slides for the drawers as the people using them are likely to be tired/half asleep etc and fighting with a racked drawer at 3 am isn't going to be popular.

For the above reasons, Baltic birch drawers with a false front would be an option, easy to make, rugged and the applied front can match the cabinet wood. Dado and rebate joints would be acceptable for this construction.

Regards, Rod.

[Lee Schierer]

I pretty much agree with Rod. I've made dressers with and without plywood in the dust divider frames. The plywood can prevent drawer interference if the drawer below gets over stuffed with material.

I prefer a lock rabbet joint over the lock miter for drawer corners. It is easy to make and very strong. It doesn't require a special cutter.

Make the changing table top removable and the dresser can be used forever.

Here are two identical dressing tables, the top on the white one removes.
http://mysite.verizon.net/us71na/nathan%20dresser.jpg
http://mysite.verizon.net/us71na/cherry%20dresser.jpg

The changing top consists of a piece of 1/4" plywood with a skirting that fits around the permanent top on all four sides. The rails are attached to the plywood. The changing top just lifts off.

[Jim German]

Thanks for the response guys. I was planning on making the changing table top removable, just like in those pictures, so hopefully the dresser can be used for a long time.

I do like the look of the lock-Rabbet joints, I already have the lock miter bit, but have had difficulties using it. The lock-rabbet seems much easier to machine.

As for drawer slides, does anyone have any suggestions? The ones I looked at had either a roller slide or just a metal slide over a wood rail in the center.

[Joe Chritz]

If you want to use an attach on drawer slide I like the ball bearing slides.

I get mine from Custom Service Hardware and get the 1150's. They are really solid and have given me great service. On furniture pieces I prefer a wooden drawer that slides in on maple runners, no attached drawer slide at all. That is just a personal thing though. I use cases of the 1150's on kitchens all the time.

Joe