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View Full Version : How do you prevent rattle in solid-panel doors?



Jamie Buxton
06-22-2010, 10:37 AM
Ideally, cabinet doors with solid-lumber panels would close with a thunk, just like slab doors. However, most of the ones I build have some slight rattle to them. If I make the dado loose enough that I'm sure the panel can expand and contract, the panel rattles.

What do you do to prevent rattle?

Michael MacDonald
06-22-2010, 10:49 AM
Jamie -- I have used rubber space balls from rockler in the past. two or three on each side hold the panel tight in the frame but allow for expansion.

Others advocate one pin on each end-grain side in the middle of the board. I bet that would work too... but haven't tried it.

Jamie Buxton
06-22-2010, 10:53 AM
I use space balls. They help center the panel, but despite the advertising claims, they don't fix the rattle -- at least in my experience.

Pinning or gluing the middle of the end-grain sides is another way of keeping the panel centered over time while it expands and contracts. But in my experience it doesn't prevent rattle. I think the rattle comes from the panel slapping forward and backward in the dado, generally on the long-grain sides.

Frank Drew
06-22-2010, 11:38 AM
Jamie,

When using solid, I like to make panels out of nice looking flat-sawn material, which expands in width but not appreciably in thickness, so I can make a reasonably snug (though not tight) slip fit of the panel's tongue in the frame's groove.

Are these raised panels? If so, how do you do the raising, with shaper or router bits, or on the table saw? It's easier to get a snug fit when using panel raising cutters vs. the table saw method, IMO.

Your panel stock's moisture content when fitted will also make a difference.

A lot of panels in older furniture are a bit rattley, FWIW.

Jerry Olexa
06-22-2010, 11:51 AM
Are you using a "matched" panel set of cutters. I have done many raised panels on various projects. Using a raised panel set has never caused me any of those issues. HTH.

Jeff Monson
06-22-2010, 12:50 PM
I'd think a compressed spaceball would keep any panel from rattling. I use them on every raised panel I build with no rattle. How much clearance are you allowing for end to end and side movement between the panel and the frame?

Karl Brogger
06-22-2010, 2:12 PM
Another vote for space balls. They're dirt cheap, a bag of ten-gazillion of the little guys is $25.

Richard McComas
06-22-2010, 2:23 PM
For those of you who use space balls.

How do you size you panel when using space balls? I typically make my panels 1/8 smaller on all sides of the panel. If I use space balls do I need to make the panel smaller?

Karl Brogger
06-22-2010, 3:00 PM
I make mine a 1/4" smaller than the opening, or 1/8" all around. I just adjust the height for the scoop in the panel so it just bottoms out before getting tight.

Neal Clayton
06-22-2010, 3:11 PM
yep, 1/8 around. i use the barrel type ones, they'll compress down to a fat 1/16, so 1/8 all the way around is plenty of space.

Chris Friesen
06-22-2010, 3:45 PM
If I make the dado loose enough that I'm sure the panel can expand and contract, the panel rattles.

The dado shouldn't be "loose". If you can physically install the panel in the groove, it's likely got enough room to expand and contract.

The only issue I can think of would be a really wide panel that tapers right out to the edge. In a case like that you might want to mill a flat area around the edge of the panel to allow for easier movement.

Chris Padilla
06-22-2010, 8:42 PM
A tube of cheap silicone caulk.

Lay out several lines on wax paper.

Watch it dry.

Cut it up into various lenghts.

Jam it into your grooves/dadoes.

Joe Chritz
06-22-2010, 10:09 PM
I have used the silicone bead method before I bought a bag of a bunch of space balls. Now all I use are .26" spaceballs.

Size the panels 1/4" smaller and put a couple on each edge.

Joe

Curt Harms
06-23-2010, 9:05 AM
but it seems to work. I made some doors with plywood panels. This was before I knew about 1/4" plywood not being 1/4". I covered both sides of the slot with masking tape and put a narrow bead of 100% silicone sealer in the groove then inserted the finished panel and assembled the door before the silicone set. My thinking is that silicone sealant will retain some elasticity and shouldn't cause cracking of the panel. Of course this was plywood, not a solid panel but no rattles.