Dumb question re: how to cut logs on the bandsaw

[Aaron Wingert]

I have to say that I'm guilty of owning a 19" 3hp Grizzly bandsaw with 12" resaw capacity for three years and have only cut boards with it, never logs. (I've cut some honkin' big boards though). So I have a question regarding using it...

Today our City Arborist called City Hall to tell me that he had just been called out to a downed hedge/osage orange tree. Did I want any? Uh, yeah! So I scored several logs about 20-24" long and 6"-10" diameter. I slathered some anchorseal on the end grain and ran inside to the air conditioning!

I intend to cut them into 1-3/4" turning squares about 10" in length and would like to do it on my bandsaw. My question is how the heck can I do this safely? They're logs and they're not perfectly straight, and even if they were straight I'd be terrified to free-hand this. I've got an idea of making some sort of carriage that the logs clamp to or screw to, but I haven't quite figured out the particulars.

That bandsaw is so powerful that if it got ahold of you it would pull you through the little hole in the table, and I have a lot of respect for it. So I want to do this safe. It bit me once when I was cutting some cedar beam corbels and got into a soft spot and the wood advanced faster than I expected...I "punched" the blade with my knuckle....Saw the bone...I wear a nice little scar to this day from that. Needless to say I'm spooked of messing this up.

I'd love to hear the procedure you all use to do this, and pictures of your jigs that help you do it would help me immensely. Thanks!

[Aaron Wingert]

Don't want to be accused of wood gloating without pics.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Aaron - congrats on the wood!

Just my thoughts on this - but I would chainsaw each log right down the middle and try to keep the cut as straight as possible. That way you would have a flat surface to use when running the log through the bandsaw. Good luck with whatever method you decide to use! Should be some great looking wood once turned!

[brian watts]

you can send them my way ..lol really there alot of way i cut logs on my bandsaw but i have a sled i can send you pic of it if you would want to see it. if so i can take some pic to. evening.

[David E Keller]

Congrats on the gloat! You'll be giving that big saw a workout with fresh bois d'arc. I'd cut those log to length first with the chainsaw. After that, Steve's suggestion is a good one... You're gonna want to get rid of the pith anyway. Even if your cut is not perfectly straight, it will be flat enough to get you through the bandsaw.

One thought, I wouldn't cut it all into spindle blanks unless you have a project ready for all of that wood. I've done that in the past only to wish I had wood left in larger sections for another project.

[Jamie Straw]

If you Google band saw log sled you will find a number of designs. The one at Lumberjocks would be a fun one for your saw, but there are simpler and smaller ones for the size logs you showed in your pictures. Many of the sleds are designed to be able to make 1" or show flat stock, and can be simplified for our less demanding applications.

You are wise, of course, not to be tempted to free-hand a log. Just asking for a bent blade or worse when the log rolls one way or the other.

Have fun!

[Roger Chandler]

I have a large bandsaw also, and I figured the best and safest way to use it to cut logs into usable turning blanks and also to resaw boards was to make a resaw sled.

There are pictures available from some of the woodworking sites if you search in their archives. I made mine with a bottom platform [plywood] with a runner to slide in the miter slot, and then made a fence out of 2 pieces of plywood in a 90 degree angle to one another [reinforced with angle blocks to maintain the angle], then put slots in the bottom plywood piece of it to accept carriage bolts from the bottom piece, and that made it able to be moved at any thickness I wanted. I used knobs instead of wingnuts to be able to tighten everything down once adjusted.

I marked off 1 inch increments so I could slab off boards if I wanted. Use roller stands to support the side off the table and the outfeed for safety. I use two screws to attach the log to the fence so it won't roll or move on me while trying to feed it through the blade. I also use a 1-1/4 inch x 1.3 tpi bandsaw blade to make the cut a really good one. More than 3 tpi will bog down too much.

Be safe, don't try anything that does not feel stable or safe. I hook up my dust collector to the bandsaw, and I have had good results using this sled and technique.

[Aaron Wingert]

Thanks all. As suggested, a google search yielded several good ideas. Nothing I hate more than building jigs, but I'm thinking a good jig is in order!

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Aaron,

I would guess a jig is the safest method of doing what you desire.

[Reed Gray]

I free hand most of my cuts. I have found that it is difficult to set up a sled because of blade drift. You get it set up perfect, then change the blade, and have to start all over again. I would do like others have said, cut the logs into lengths about 11 or 12 inches long, and cut them as square as possible.

You CAN (I will not recommend this, but it can be done safely) lay them down flat length wise on the bandsaw table, IF they are STRAIGHT, and attempt to cut down the pith. You can lay the log on a table and mark plumb lines, then snap a chalk line down the top of the log, even over the bark. If the log is bowed, this is very difficult/dangerous/next to impossible to do, but when straight, it isn't too difficult to do. Please note, this is not a beginner skill on the bandsaw, and would be considered crazy by some. I do it often on smaller pieces which are what I consider the pieces you have to be. This cut should only be done down the center of the log and not down the sides to flatten it off as the log will tip/roll into the blade, bending and breaking blade, and bad words will be said, as you change your britches.

If that sounds too crazy, make the same marks as above, and rip it with a chainsaw, then cut sections to size. Fairly simple and safe, especially if you can rip a flat surface.

If the logs aren't curved, and your cut is fairly square, you can stand them on end and rip them that way. The biggest problem here is you don't want the log to lean either to the front or back. This makes the first bit of the cut rather tipsy, and that can be quite exciting on a bigger bandsaw. Also, it is more difficult to rip exactly on the pith as the pith can wander from one end of the log section to the other. One other smaller problem is that you will get long shavings which the dust collector doesn't gather too well, and they will plug up the inside of your bandsaw.

I would recommend that you cut the blanks to rough size, round over the ends (don't leave them square and sharp), turn a cylinder, and then seal the ends, and the sooner the better.

Hmmmmm, maybe some one should make a horizontal bandsaw for woodturners.

robo hippy

[Norm Zax]

How about this for the first cut (havent done it myself due to a small BS): lay the log on your work bench; cut 4-6 straight angled triangles of whatever flat wood, say 2 inch length; hot glue them on both sides of the log making sure it doesnt rock (triangles flat on the table, like wedges). Gluing them on and ripping them off should take 30 sec max.
Be safe!

[Moshe Eshel]

How about this for the first cut (havent done it myself due to a small BS): lay the log on your work bench; cut 4-6 straight angled triangles of whatever flat wood, say 2 inch length; hot glue them on both sides of the log making sure it doesnt rock (triangles flat on the table, like wedges). Gluing them on and ripping them off should take 30 sec max.
Be safe!

I would use SCREWS hot glue won't be enough (especially with the bark), same angle can be obtained from two whole boards (plywood, osb) connected at a 90 degree angle and have the log screwed to them. The bottom board is sacrificial - but it is a VERY simple and fast jig to build. it is also quite safe.
BTW the shorter the log sections the safer and easier the go - so break down the logs to length (chainsaw) and then start band-sawing.

[Hilel Salomon]

Sled, sled, sled. There are way too many chances that you will get hurt trying to cut a log on a bandsaw. If you want to make bowls, all you need is one flat side and then you can round out the blank safely. I have also used a jointer to achieve the flat side.
Hilel.

[Dick Rowe]

I recently had to deal with the same problem and ended up building a jig I found in an old issue of Wood magazine (May 2007).

It works well, and it is a much safer way to do it than the free-hand way I had been tackling this stuff.

Info link: http://www.woodstore.net/fiyoownwoand.html

Video link: http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodvision/?bclid=1339217207&bctid=979366590

[Bernie Weishapl]

When cutting wood for spindles or bowls I split the log down the middle so I have a flat surface to work with. I then either round the blank for a bowl or cut them into spindle from there. Just make sure the flat portion is on the table.

[Roger Chandler]

Sled, sled, sled. There are way too many chances that you will get hurt trying to cut a log on a bandsaw. If you want to make bowls, all you need is one flat side and then you can round out the blank safely. I have also used a jointer to achieve the flat side.
Hilel.


The SAFEST way to cut logs on a band saw is with a resaw sled, period. Used properly, it will hold the log in place, keep it from rolling, protect your hands by keeping them out of the way of the blade, and will also give you a better cut than a chainsaw.

It is a matter of a little time [maybe and hour] to build it, and probably using scrap plywood you already have on hand. It is a re-usable jig that will make you glad you did build it every time you use it, and will always provide the safety element so that you keep all 10 fingers! :eek::eek::eek:

[Cody Colston]

I've sawn quite a few logs on my 17" bandsaw up to 14" diameter and 40" in length, including Osage Orange. I used to contrive a sled of sorts but now I simply freehand them. After you get one fairly flat side, a sled is not necessary, anyway.

Just about any log will want to lay on one spot...they are never perfectly round. Find that spot and then snap a chalk line about 1-2 inches from the inside edge of the log as it lays on the BS table.

Cut along the chalk line, adjusting for drift as you go. You will need some outfeed support for logs 2 ft. and longer. I use a roller stand. For the last few inches of the cut, I go to the outfeed side and pull the log through so that my hands don't get to close to the blade.

Once you get that first side sorta flat, you can proceed to trim the other three sides for a cant. If sawing into planks, I generally flatten two sides of the cant on the jointer and flatten the sawn side again after each cut.

[Charles Wiggins]

http://community.webshots.com/photo/fullsize/2846043370101907180pUnclX

[David Woodruff]

It seems there used to be a re-saw mill around Overland Park. Call the Big Wood Store North of KC, can't remember the name, he should be able to name a few. A straight saw cut down the center will save time time and should not be too expensive.

Paxton Woods, I now remember. Getting old is FUN!!!

[John Hart]

Just from fighting with sleds.....and the fact that you have to get rid of the pith anyway....I will second the motions by Mr Schlumpf and Mr Weishapl, to split it or chainsaw it down the middle so you have something flat to work with.

[David Woodruff]

It seems there used to be a re-saw mill around Overland Park. Call the Big Wood Store North of KC, can't remember the name, he should be able to name a few mills. A straight saw cut down the center will save time time and should not be too expensive.

Paxton Woods is the name--Getting old is FUN!!!!!!!!!!

[Jerry Marcantel]

I haven't cut anything over 24" long, but I usually joint one edge until I have at least a 3" flat spot, then rotate it 90° and joint it again. Jointer should be at least 6". Caution, The guard needs to be removed to joint the flat spots, and sometimes, I remove the fence... ( If you guys were to see my hands, you would think I'm impervious to pain, but that's not true).... My bandsaw fence is just 3/4" Baltic birch with a 1 1/2" leg and about 4+ inches high. The leg can't be any longer than the table, but the fence can be as long as you think you need.. I use 2 welders Visegrip clamps with the pads, and clamp the fence to the table.... Lay one jointed side on the table, and the other side up against the fence.... My biggest problem is my saw is under powered.... Jerry (in Tucson)

[Roger Chandler]

Just from fighting with sleds.....and the fact that you have to get rid of the pith anyway....I will second the motions by Mr Schlumpf and Mr Weishapl, to split it or chainsaw it down the middle so you have something flat to work with.


John,

To each his own. I have had your method almost cost me some body parts,:eek: but if one is willing to chance that, then they might get by with it or not. The question was about "sawing logs on a bandsaw" and I know that it can be done with a chainsaw, but the poster desiring to use his large bandsaw was looking for the best way to do it on that machine.

No criticism intended, just an observation and good will toward all....:)

[John Hart]

John,

To each his own. I have had your method almost cost me some body parts,:eek: but if one is willing to chance that, then they might get by with it or not. The question was about "sawing logs on a bandsaw" and I know that it can be done with a chainsaw, but the poster desiring to use his large bandsaw was looking for the best way to do it on that machine.

No criticism intended, just an observation and good will toward all....:)

Hey...no problem at all Roger. With all the stupid stuff I've done...I'm surprised I'm still alive. ;)

[Kyle Iwamoto]

+1 on chainsaw. That is also an excuse to BUY MORE TOOLS, if you don't already have one! :D Most times you want to get rid of the pith anyways, so "wasting" that thick kerf from the chainsaw is not a problem. Having a chainsaw also will allow you more access to "free" wood.

Just my $0.02.

[Aaron Wingert]

Thanks for all the ideas everyone. I may try the chainsaw idea, although I would prefer to utilize my big bandsaw and some sort of sled/jig for this. The logs are a bit small for me to feel very comfy ripping them lengthwise, not to mention they're hedge, which is hard as rock. Although I respect the opinion of those that suggest free-handing them on the bandsaw, I will not do that do to what I feel are obvious safety concerns. All the discussion has really given me some food for thought, which is great!

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Thanks for all the ideas everyone. I may try the chainsaw idea, although I would prefer to utilize my big bandsaw and some sort of sled/jig for this. The logs are a bit small for me to feel very comfy ripping them lengthwise, not to mention they're hedge, which is hard as rock. Although I respect the opinion of those that suggest free-handing them on the bandsaw, I will not do that do to what I feel are obvious safety concerns. All the discussion has really given me some food for thought, which is great!

I would also use the chainsaw to halve the logs, one of the main reasons is that the pith very seldom is in the middle of the log and also quit often changes position through the log.
By using the chainsaw you can mark the log on one side and then the other side and cut the log through those marks, you also get rid of some of the pith at the same time, handling/sawing the half logs after this is much easier and safer than doing that on a round log, Just IMO :D

[Neil Strong]

http://www.woodworkforums.com/f44/resawing-rig-29656/

......

[Prashun Patel]

+1 on the sled. Obviously, debark it first else yr asking for yr blade to be prematurely replaced.

I cross-cut a log on my bandsaw last month freehand. Stupid. The blade grabbed the log and rolled it, cutting my finger (fortunately not so badly).

Next time, sled for me.