Manual-crank right-angle reduction gear box

[Kent A Bathurst]

OK - today's wacko idea:

I would like to come off my DP table's manual height adjustment crank's shaft into a (2:1 or 3:1 reduction?) right-angle gearbox, with a shaft running to a handwheel in front of the table.

I don't know what or where to search for gearbox components. McMaster-Carr has right-angle reduction boxes in the stratospheric price range (multiple $$hundreds). That's not what I want to do.

Youse guys are all pretty smart. ??????

Thanks
Kent

[Scott T Smith]

Try surpluscenter.com

[Bill LaPointe]

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=13-1462&catname=

[Roger Newby]

Yup...what they said...surplus center is just a few miles from me. Done a bunch of business with them over the years. Good caster selection if your building carts or machine stands.

[Wes Grass]

McMaster has miter gears, but only in 1:1 ratios. And you'd still be stuck with making a precision housing of some sort to hold them in the correct orientation. I've seen a right angle attachment for a drill used for a steering box on a pedal car. I'd think something like that would handle the torque requirement you have. But that's probably 1:1 too.


If you can stand having the crank on the side of the table, it'd be a lot easier to do with a chain or belt.

[Aaron Berk]

So what happens if you need to tilt the table?

[Brad Townsend]

Why bother with a crank or handwheel at all?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/btownsend/CIMG0751.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/btownsend/CIMG0750.jpg

[Jerome Hanby]

Not sure how much force it would have to stand, but you can buy those right angle gizmos for power drills fir very little. Those are probably 1:1, but you could make your crank larger. maybe you could tear into one of those and adapt it...

[Kent A Bathurst]

So what happens if you need to tilt the table?

Then that would be the first time ever (12 years and counting).

[Kent A Bathurst]

I'm in - how do I do this? $$?


Why bother with a crank or handwheel at all?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/btownsend/CIMG0751.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/btownsend/CIMG0750.jpg

[Kent A Bathurst]

McMaster has miter gears, but only in 1:1 ratios. And you'd still be stuck with making a precision housing of some sort to hold them in the correct orientation. I've seen a right angle attachment for a drill used for a steering box on a pedal car. I'd think something like that would handle the torque requirement you have. But that's probably 1:1 too.


If you can stand having the crank on the side of the table, it'd be a lot easier to do with a chain or belt.

Yeah - I saw that about McM-C. But - then I stumbled across worm gears - don't need a box - that was all I could think of at first. Worm gears come in a lot of different ratios - but they are all pretty high (low?) like 10:1 and up - I could live with that.

But, now you've got me thinking - with a sprocket on the adjustment shaft, then I could put another gear/sprocket out near the front and use a chain. The handwheel would not be parallel to the front of the table, but that's not an issue - it would still be easily accessible. Hmmmmmm.......

[george wilson]

Kent,VERY cool!!

[Graham Wintersgill]

Kent

Maybe you could take the motor of on of these http://www.amazon.com/UPG-86025-Automotive-Tire-Jack/dp/B000B8US6C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1277229274&sr=8-2 (electric jack)

You would need a 12v supply.

Regards

[Brad Townsend]

I'm in - how do I do this? $$?

About $40 for the motor:

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008072515232597&item=5-1663&catname=electric

and probably another $15-20 for the switch, wire, etc.

I did a post on this in another forum. Since I'm not sure about the SMC policy about links to other forums, I am emailing you the link.

[Kent A Bathurst]

About $40 for the motor:

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008072515232597&item=5-1663&catname=electric

and probably another $15-20 for the switch, wire, etc.

I did a post on this in another forum. Since I'm not sure about the SMC policy about links to other forums, I am emailing you the link.

Got it - thanks. You ever figure out a remote operation gizmo for the table lock?:D

[Brad Townsend]

Got it - thanks. You ever figure out a remote operation gizmo for the table lock?:D

Never did Kent. Had to resort to this:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/btownsend/IMGP0115.jpg

:D:D

[Kent A Bathurst]

Brad - that's pretty good. My version - The DP table (exact same DP as in your photos) was raised fairly high, because I needed every bit of the quill travel for hogging out some mortises. Turned my head, brad-point bit grabbed my hand - pretty cool - I had never seen a knuckle up close. Some number of dozens of stitches. All fine. The bar-code wrist band they put on you at the ER - that is taped to the DP immediately above the Start switch. heh-heh-heh.

Which - by the way - is why I built a new DP table with a lot of gizmos - to make it easy to clamp the workpiece and minimize lame excuses for doing stupid stuff. In the process, my crank handle got more inaccessible due to some table features I don't want to give up. Hence my OP, and hence my soon-to-happen order for the parts you explained.

Seems like a socket wrench/ratchet with about a 10" handle would work for the lock - drill + tap a setscrew through the socket itself to keep it on the lock pin/shaft. Especially if someone makes one with the reversing switch at the end of the handle, not on the body of the ratchet? Throw the reversing knob, crank real fast 8 - 10 time with a short throw (not much room) and you're all done. Even with a standard wrench - reaching the socket reverser isn't that hard - and then the lock handle can be moved standing up with no cusswords. Think about it, and get back to me with the answer, willya? :D:D

Thanks again for the warp-drive table height adjustmenet.


Never did Kent. Had to resort to this:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/btownsend/IMGP0115.jpg

:D:D

[Jay Yoder]

About $40 for the motor:

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008072515232597&item=5-1663&catname=electric

and probably another $15-20 for the switch, wire, etc.

I did a post on this in another forum. Since I'm not sure about the SMC policy about links to other forums, I am emailing you the link.


Care to send me the link as well? I would greatly appreciate it! Excellent Idea!

[Richard Blaine]

I did a post on this in another forum. Since I'm not sure about the SMC policy about links to other forums, I am emailing you the link.

My understanding is that you can type in the URL, but it can't be a hyperlink. That allows any of us to copy the URL, and paste it into a browser.

[Doug Carpenter]

So guys, is this just to speed up the travel or can you use it to increase the travel of the press? for example can you drill 20 inches deep if your bit is big enough just by advancinf the material up into the spinning bit.

I have a thread in the turners section about using a lathe to drill a gunstock blank. The lathe becomes a horizontal drill press. Trouble is a lathe takes up alot of floor space and would only get used for that purpose alone. I was going to get a floor drill press anyway so if this is doable then it saves some floor space. What is more important than that?

I assume you would have to find a way to keep the table straight while it is raising. Or to the floor dp's have lock on that?

[Brad Townsend]

My understanding is that you can type in the URL, but it can't be a hyperlink. That allows any of us to copy the URL, and paste it into a browser.
I thought I had better check into this further so to not run afoul of the mods. The policy states that they DO NOT allow links to other forums to be posted. I doubt it would make much difference if it were in hyperlink format or not. I might not be posting a link in the most technical sense, but "mods are gods" and I doubt they would let me off on a technicality. To keep myself in good standing at SMC, I will email the link to anyone who wants it.;)

[Curt Harms]

I thought I had better check into this further so to not run afoul of the mods. The policy states that they DO NOT allow links to other forums to be posted. I doubt it would make much difference if it were in hyperlink format or not. I might not be posting a link in the most technical sense, but "mods are gods" and I doubt they would let me off on a technicality. To keep myself in good standing at SMC, I will email the link to anyone who wants it.;)

The link prohibition is primarily about linking to other forums or site from which the poster may profit, such as a link to the poster's ebay for-sale item. AFAIK there's no problem with linking to manufacturer's sites as long as the poster doesn't benefit financially. I've posted Ebay items numbers (but not as a link) and not gotten deleted. Ebay links are verboten.

[Brad Townsend]

The link prohibition is primarily about linking to other forums or site from which the poster may profit, such as a link to the poster's ebay for-sale item. AFAIK there's no problem with linking to manufacturer's sites as long as the poster doesn't benefit financially. I've posted Ebay items numbers (but not as a link) and not gotten deleted. Ebay links are verboten.
Curt, If you read Keith's posting here
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=119252
it's a little more complicated than that. The reasons links to other forums are banned goes beyond commercial or profit considerations. The problem isn't posting a link to a Surplus Center page for the motor. It's posting the link to the forum on which I had previously posted this idea. Apparently SMC mods have enough to do policing SMC without having to worry about what someone might link to in another forum over which they have no control.