How to attach a mirror?

[Craig D Peltier]

I made some fairly large frames of walnut. 30x40 x3 an 30x48 and 30x69. Frames are 3.5 wide. Mirror is about 3/16th thick. I thought I could use liquid nails mirror but I tried it and I could see the caulking from the front in the reflection of the mirrors So i took it off and cleaned it.
When mirror is inside rabbet it only stick out about 3/16 at most. Glazing points might work but I took off half a finger nail trying to push one in today, pretty hard wood to push it in an not sure if it can hold the weight of these mirrors in unless I put plenty.
Another option i thought of was to make and l shaped pieces of wood to hold it in. I cant just buy any old clip for mirrors since the recess is already made.

Any ideas? Will clear silicone work and not be seen ( i think it still will)?

Thanks

[Jamie Buxton]

I often hold glass panels in cabinet doors with an L-shaped stop. One arm of the L holds the glass, and screws go through the other arm into the door frame. I machine two rabbets into the door frame. The glass fits against one, and the arm of the L that the screws go through fit against the other rabbet. That way, the back of the L can be flush with the back of the door frame.

[Jamie Buxton]

Here's a sketch. I cut the rabbets after the frame is glued up. I use a standard 3/8"-deep rabbeting piloted rabbet bit for the forward rabbet, and a slot-cutter for the rear one, setting the size of the bearing on the slot-cutter to give the rabbet depth I want. Works like a champ.

[Richard McComas]

Make a rabbit around the inside of you frame about 1/8 wider that your mirror on each side (1/4 bigger over all). Also make the rabbit 1/8 deeper than your mirror thickness.

Lay the mirror in place an use the good silicone made for this (you can get at most any glass shop) and fill the remaining grove with the silicone up to the level of the wood frame. There is no silicone between the face of the glass and the frame. Just around the edges. Let cure before moving.

[Craig D Peltier]

Here's a sketch. I cut the rabbets after the frame is glued up. I use a standard 3/8"-deep rabbeting piloted rabbet bit for the forward rabbet, and a slot-cutter for the rear one, setting the size of the bearing on the slot-cutter to give the rabbet depth I want. Works like a champ.
Thanks I will remember that for next time. But for now, frames are done with finish on them.I guess if need be I could still rabbett.

[Matt Meiser]

Every mirror, and even some glass doors, I've made I've siliconed the mirror in with clear silicone. All have been rabbeted from the backside and I just put a very thin bead in the corner of the rabbet, set the mirror, then run a bead around the back.

Glazier's points: Every time I've installed (not very much) or seen them installed, it was done with a putty knife. Be careful not to scratch the back of the mirror though. Might be a good idea to put a piece of paper or thin cardboard between the mirror and point.

[George Clark]

I'm sure the silicone will do the job, but if you don't want to use it or want some extra security offset clips will work.

http://www.unitedmfrs.com/cart/search.cfm (http://www.unitedmfrs.com/cart/search.cfm) (do a search for offset clips)

We do a bit of framing and keep a selection of sizes.

[Paul Girouard]

Glass retaining clips , bore a hole in the frame to flush out the retainer.

You'll need some type of rabbit to hide the mirror thickness in anyway. So bite the bullet , cut a rabbit with a rabbiting bit , refinish the rabbit as it will show if it's not finished in the mirror reflection.

There other clips that are lower profile than these but this should give you the idea .

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21499

[Paul Girouard]

Here's the type I generally use ,

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2203

[Bruce Page]

Pay no attention to the odd creation… I used simple washers recessed into the frame to hold the hardboard/mirror in place. It was easy to do and worked like a charm.

[glenn bradley]

If they won't be seen, fender washers will do the trick. If visible I have used what Paul G. shows the link to with good success.

[Paul Girouard]

I don't like metal connectors with glass or mirror. To much risk, for to little reward / cost savings.

[Bruce Page]

I don't like metal connectors with glass or mirror. To much risk, for to little reward / cost savings.

No risk at all if done correctly.

[Paul Girouard]

No risk at all if done correctly.



Ya sure. One over tighten screw , one twist of the frame in transit to a job site and crack , or clam shell is the game.

I guess for home use the risk isn't as great. But I tend to have to transport things to deliver them. YMMV. If I where forced to use a washer I'd back it up with some rubber before I tighten the screw.

Just eaiser to me to keep a few clips on hand for the next job.

[Bruce Page]

Paul, If you set the counterbore depth for the washer based on the rabbit depth, mirror thickness and backer board thickness, over tightening the washer isn’t possible. All the washer does is keep the backer board captive.

[Mark Woodmark]

I would encapsolate the mirror to protect the edges and the mirrior back similar to the sketch

153916

[Paul Girouard]

Paul, If you set the counterbore depth for the washer based on the rabbit depth, mirror thickness and backer board thickness, over tightening the washer isn’t possible. All the washer does is keep the backer board captive.


I was talking about a mirror with not plywood back, some time you don't have room for the mirror , and a 1/4" back , your reveal gets to thin. But sure if the frame is thick enought and you have a 1/4" or even 1/8" door skin "back" to protect the glass or mirror sure a washer would work.

Even better a double rabbit to house the mirror and then a wider or deeper if you will rabbit to house the "sub-back" and you could just screw thru the sub-back into the back of the frame.

So there's more than two ways to mount a mirror or glass panel in a frame. It all depends on what effect you desire and what issues / conditions you face to achieve the desired effect.

[Brian Kincaid]

I used some nylon tabbed washers from the solar screen / window screen section at lowes/HD.

-Brian

[Craig D Peltier]

Thanks for the help. I used some Drexel clear silicon. I put a small bead in the rabbett, dropped the mirror in and put some around the joint line on the back. Let dry for 2 days and hung them yesterday. Works good.

[kevin loftus]

Pay no attention to the odd creation… I used simple washers recessed into the frame to hold the hardboard/mirror in place. It was easy to do and worked like a charm.


What is the odd creation Bruce ?:confused:
Curious folk would like to know. :)