Design Question - Discussion

[Alan Turner]

I liked Mark’s Bathroom thread so much that I decided to share a design I am currently playing with. The piece is to be a display cabinet, to sit on the floor, and house my Aunt’s stuffed bears, etc. She has a new apt., with elevator (she is 89), and needs a bit more display space. It will be 42 high, and 18 wide. A Christmas present, of course.

So far, I have decided to make it of cherry, which I have, and to make a solid, slab sided carcase, DT’d in the usual fashion, with a separate, overhanging top. It will be 12" deep at the bottom, and 9" at the top, with a 1" top overhang on the front and sides. Theh top edge will be shaped, carved, with a filleted ogee.

I am inclined to make the carcase 38.25 by 18, + 3/4 for the top, and 3" for the base/feet.

I am thinking that I will slant the front edge of the sides back from 12 at the bottom, to 9 at the top, straight (no curve). The shelves, 3 in #, of ½" cherry, will be dadoed, with stubby sliding DT’s at the front. Spacing on the shelves, bottom to top, is 11 13/16, 9 13/16, etc.

I am torn between stubby feet, applied, or bracket feet. I initially thought the former, but now am thinking ogee bracket feet would be better. That way they would be a bit wider than the carcase, and help to balance the piece, top to bottom. If the stubbys, then 2.5" wide at top, 2" at bottom, 3" tall, all 4 corners, cherry.

I was thinking of cockbeading the shelf edges, and the interior carcase sides, with 1/8" beading, which would meet in a miter at the shelves. Is this too much detail? It is a PITA, but very rich in appearance.

I would be willing to add a bit of carving, but am not sure what or where. My experience in carving is minimal, but that is how you learn.

I don’t have sketch-up, so can’t share drawings, but the foregoing may be enough to get you fellows thinking with me.

I am adding a secret compartment as I have decided that these are enough fun for the recipient to be worth the trouble.

I welcome suggestions, and thanks in advance for the help.

Alan

[Chris Padilla]

I'd love to help you out, Alan, but some pictures of what you have in mind sure would help us help you. :) Maybe one of the SU users here might help you out? :D

[Mark Singer]

Alan,

Even if you make a hand sketch and take a photo of it, it would really help and then others can make Sketch up or helpful drawings on CAD.

[Alan Turner]

I have a full scale drawing. I will try to shoot it tonight, and post. Wondered why I wasn't getting any feedback, and thought about moving it to the general forum. Thanks for heads up, Mark and Chris.
Alan

[Nathan Hoffman]

Sounds like and interesting piece, Alan. I have seen bookcases/display units that tapered back and in from both sides, but I can't think of an example I have seen where just the front tapers. Is cockbeading where you apply a thin piece to the edge to form a bead? Will you put doors on it? If you do get some pictures, that would help!

[Alan Turner]

Guys,

Below are pix of the full size drawing. I had to darken the lines to get this to post, and I hope it is clear enough to see.

The possible cockbeading would be similar to the cockbeading on the piece I recently posted in the Neander forum. The beading on the shelves would be integral; on the carcase sides it could be integral, or applied, on the inside only, or on both sides (which would then have to be integral. It is a tricky and time consuming do since the sliding DT’s have to be cut by hand so that the angle is correct visually, and the beads properly form the miter at the two corners. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=93046#post93046


The primary issue I confront on this piece is the feet. I drew them as shown, and they passed the SWMBO test, and received approval (she has an excellent, traditional design sense), but frankly I lean towards ogee bracket feet of a smallish size, but traditional shape.

I did not consider a taper on the sides such that the top (front view) would be narrower than the bottom. I would have to think about the carcase DT’s on that configuration a bit, but I think I could manage. I recall that Frid covers this type of joint, but I have never cut any. That would be an excellent reason to give them a shot. All of the carcase DT’s are for strength only, and will not be seen.

As before, comments and suggestions are appreciated.

Alan

[Jim Becker]

If you add the beading and other more ornate features, I agree that the ogee feet might be more appropriate. If you leave the rest of the unit simple, than the straight feet would be more to my liking. What will work best with other furnishings in close proximity? Or does that even matter?

[Alan Turner]

JIm,
As to your last question, assume it does not matter. My most recent thought is that the the chunky feet are sort of a 40's look, FWIW. I oculd expand the top rail, under the top, to 1", and add a small, 3/4" "crown" molsing of an ogee and bead shape.

With the beading, sliders, bracket feet, and crown, it gets to be a fu-fu. Too much so?

Alan

[Jim Becker]

I think I'd like the "chunky" feet if the other details were subtle--it would do as you say--bring out a little "retro" in a nice way. But if everthing is really obvious, it may be too over the top. You also don't want to over compete with the things that will be displayed on it, too.

But I'm a Shaker-inspired individual, too, which greatly influences what I like and don't like.