Green wood+NatEdge - special instructs??

[Jamie Straw]

Got carried away last night and turned a piece of pretty green wood (not dripping wet but definitely very, very damp) attempting my first natural-edge form. It's small, perhaps 4" across the top. Does having a natural edge on a green piece present any special challenges vis a vis drying?? -- something(s) particular I need to do or not do? Should the rim be rough-turned thinner than usual?

Raffan's bowl DVD has an NE section, but his bowl's moisture content is such that it needs to dry 2 hours before finishing "or better, 2 days." Doesn't sound very moist to me.:p TIA!!

[David E Keller]

If you turned it thin and even, no worries. I wait for a few days before applying a finish. I often wet sand them while they're still on the lathe, then go back with hand sanding and finer grits after the waiting period.

[Thom Sturgill]

Don't forget a little CA to anchor the bark, if needed.

[Jamie Straw]

If you turned it thin and even, no worries. I wait for a few days before applying a finish. I often wet sand them while they're still on the lathe, then go back with hand sanding and finer grits after the waiting period.

Hi, David. I didn't turn it thin -- that's one of the questions I have. Normall, with green wood, we do the 10% thing, right? Wondering if that's different when doing NE work.

[Jamie Straw]

Don't forget a little CA to anchor the bark, if needed.

I have some medium CA from Woodcraft, but no accelerator. Can I use it without accelerator? and how do I apply it? Just drizzle it on....? Not sure how to know it's needed or not -- seems like as the wood dries, the bark might lose its grip, so may just do the CA as preventative.

[Dennis Ford]

Using the 10% method will work for a natural edge if you plan to turn it again after drying. I find it easier to turn natural edge pieces to final thickness while wet. There will be some warping but that just adds to the organic character of a natural edge piece. You will have to do some sanding (off the lathe) once it drys.

[Jamie Straw]

Thanks, Dennis, I've been waiting for input before continuing with this little specimen.

[Allen Neighbors]

I have some medium CA from Woodcraft, but no accelerator. Can I use it without accelerator? and how do I apply it? Just drizzle it on....? Not sure how to know it's needed or not -- seems like as the wood dries, the bark might lose its grip, so may just do the CA as preventative.
Jamie, just apply a wash with 65%Thinner/35%Lacquer. It'll keep the CA from staining the wood. And it'll keep the bark from releasing as it dries. Just apply thin CA to the cambium layer, that attaches the bark to the wood. If you get the CA on the bark itself, it'll be alright... The lacquer wash will sand away, and you can then apply any finish you want to the finished piece... oil included.
It'll just keep the CA from staining the wood, which you cannot sand away.
Hope this helps.

[Nathan Hawkes]

There's another thread active right now about natural edge pieces that also applies to your questions. I turn a lot of natural edge bowls, and love turning them green. I turn to final thickness always when working green natural edge bowls, for a couple reasons. I don't like using anything--CA or lacquer for that matter, if I can do it without it. They both work very well, but frequently you don't need it. Because I turn a lot, I really don't want any more than I have to of the repeat skin and respiratory exposure to petroleum distillates and CA glue. Green wood vibrates less and cuts cleaner than dry wood, period. Sharp tools are a must, and working in stages is a must. Don't cut all the way into your bowl working a uniform thickness down from the middle out. Work from the top down, creating a uniform thickness as you go. Removing too much from the center will result in more vibration and more time to allow for warping from centrifugal force related drying out and the associated warping that will unavoidably take place.

[Jamie Straw]

Thanks for the tip, Allen. I may have to try it on the next bowl, as the hardware store is closed and I don't have any lacquer in my finishing stash!

[Jamie Straw]

Thanks, Nathan, I'll look for the other thread. I think I'll try your method tonight, as it's too late to pick up any lacquer at Ace. Will remember the tip about working from the top down, and into the center.