Could you please check your drill press?

[Phil Thien]

I have a Ryobi WDP1850 drill press. I'm having problems w/ the Jacobs 33 taper on the end of the spindle. This drill press has some neat features, and I'd like to keep it going.

One possibility is to use components from another drill press to fix this one.

Could you guys please take a look at the bearing at the bottom of your quill and see what number it is? I'm looking for anything that starts with 6203 as the first four digits. If you have a 6203 followed by anything, could you let me know the make/model of your drill press?

Extra credit: If you have a decent caliper (to within .001"), please check the two outside diameters of your quill. Quills are typically stepped, there is a larger O.D. at the bottom, and then a reduced O.D. that fits into the body of the head. If you could measure the quill at these two points, it would also help.

I know this is a long shot, and the parts may need additional machining. But it would be better than starting from scratch.

[Van Huskey]

What part do you need? If it is bearings that should be easy enough a local bearing supply, if not it may help to know the exact piece you are looking for.

[Phil Thien]

What part do you need? If it is bearings that should be easy enough a local bearing supply, if not it may help to know the exact piece you are looking for.

A new spindle (with taper).

If the bearing size is the same as my drill press, there is a chance that the spindle will be close enough to adapt to my use.

Again, I know it is a long shot. But I've studied the drawings of all the Grizzly drill presses at their site, many of the Jets, and all of the Delta's. And there is a line of presses coming from Taiwan/China that look to have very similar spindle designs.

In fact, I looked at a PC at Lowes last night and I think I could slip my spindle right into the drive pulley. There is a possibility that I could order the PC spindle/taper parts, have the bottom seat on my quill bore-out, and use the PC parts on my press. I'd have to take another couple of measurements though, as there is a possibility the quill on the PC press is larger than mine.

But I figured before I do that, I'd do some checking here.

[Charles Lent]

Phil,

I would not hesitate to replace a whole drill chuck if I was having a problem with it. They aren't that expensive, and an American name brand chuck would be significantly higher in quality than the Taiwan version. Contact Jacobs www.jacobschuck.com and see if they have a replacement chuck for your drill press. They probably already know what fits it perfectly.

Charley

[Terry Beadle]

You may want to go on the bay and search for a chuck adaptor. There are lots of them available for a very reasonable cost. They are even supplied with multiple adaptors M1, M2, M3 included with some of the key less chucks offered.

[Phil Thien]

Thanks for the help guys.

But somewhere I'm not getting my point across.

It isn't a problem with the chuck.

It is a problem with the taper, which is part of the spindle.

The machine is obsolete, the spindle is not a part I can order any longer.

So I need to find a different drill press with a compatible spindle. Or close enough that I can have it machined to fit the purpose.

I just wish Delta didn't use proprietary #'s for their bearings. I look at their drawings and see parts that may be perfect, but I can't tell because I can't determine the bearing # and this the size.

[Pete Bradley]

TI can't tell because I can't determine the bearing # and this the size.
6203 is the most common machine bearing on the planet. The digits afterward just describe stuff like seal type that doesn't matter much in this application as long as there is a seal.

You might get lucky and score a donor machine, you might find someone willing to remachine the taper (you're sure the taper's unsalvageable rather than the chuck, right?) but honestly it's not worth it for this machine.

My suggestion: loctite the chuck in place. You'll have to research Loctite's numbers a little to get the right product for the job, but it should hold well enough. In the unlikely event you have to remove the chuck that should be possible with heat. You probably won't find what you need at the auto parts store, but Mcmaster sells a good selection.

Pete

[Phil Thien]

6203 is the most common machine bearing on the planet. The digits afterward just describe stuff like seal type that doesn't matter much in this application as long as there is a seal.

Not exactly. A 6203 has a 17mm bore. A 6203-1/2 has a 1/2" (12.7mm) bore. A -5/8 has a 5/8" bore, a -16 has a 16mm bore, and a 3/4 has a (you guessed it) 3/4" bore. So the #'s after 6203 can be important.


You might get lucky and score a donor machine, you might find someone willing to remachine the taper (you're sure the taper's unsalvageable rather than the chuck, right?) but honestly it's not worth it for this machine.

Donor is not likely, they just didn't sell enough of them.

Not enough left to machine a new taper. Maybe a sleeve.

In terms of whether it is worth it to do the machining, you're probably right but for reasons I won't bore you with, I sorta wanted to keep this machine.


My suggestion: loctite the chuck in place.

So you're the guy that goes around Loctiting chucks on? :eek:

I know of my taper problems because I'm ready to install a new chuck, because the old chuck is shot. The new chuck is way too nice to Loctite on.

I'll probably replace the unit if I can't come up with another solution.

[Jamie Buxton]

You can rule out the Delta 17-959L, a 17" drill press. The bearing starts with 2605.

[Pete Bradley]

Not exactly. A 6203 has a 17mm bore. A 6203-1/2 has a 1/2" (12.7mm) bore. A -5/8 has a 5/8" bore, a -16 has a 16mm bore, and a 3/4 has a (you guessed it) 3/4" bore. So the #'s after 6203 can be important.



Donor is not likely, they just didn't sell enough of them.

Not enough left to machine a new taper. Maybe a sleeve.

In terms of whether it is worth it to do the machining, you're probably right but for reasons I won't bore you with, I sorta wanted to keep this machine.



So you're the guy that goes around Loctiting chucks on? :eek:

I know of my taper problems because I'm ready to install a new chuck, because the old chuck is shot. The new chuck is way too nice to Loctite on.

I'll probably replace the unit if I can't come up with another solution.

Fair clarification on the bearing size, though I doubt you'll find anything but vanilla on a low-end import.

No, I'm not the guy who goes around loctiting machines together. I'm the guy who does high-quality rebuilds of high quality old iron. This machine isn't that and ordinarily I wouldn't do more than a cheap fix on it. Now if it's got sentimental value, then a "quest" for a replacement might be worthwhile.

You might start surfing eBAY for donors. All sorts of stuff turns up there.