From chunk of wood to boards?

[Scott Behrens]

Did a quick search and didn't really find anything on this topic. I read an article a few months ago about making a table from chunks of wood. I decided to experiment and try to make some boards. I've got a couple small pieces of Walnut. They are about 16" in diameter and 24" long. I figure I can use the wood for small boxes or something once it drys. Back to the main subject, I remember that they used a beetle, froe, side axe, drawknife and went from there. I have a drawknife but not the prior items. Are they necessary? If so, can they be obtained cheaply? I haven't had good luck finding planes and chisels in my area and have resorted to ebay. I do have a splitting wedge from Menards and a sledge hammer, can these be used? I noticed Bob has mentioned this type of demo he does for a class but haven't found a post about it. Thanks for any information you guys have. I've had a lot of fun figuring out how things are done but I haven't really put the information to use on any projects yet.

Thanks,
Scott

[Tom LaRussa]

I've got a couple small pieces of Walnut. They are about 16" in diameter and 24" long. I figure I can use the wood for small boxes or something once it drys.
What you need is a bandsaw. Slice them puppies right up. Then you can plane them smooth.

If you don't have a bandsaw, try a big rip saw.

[Jim Becker]

Highland Hardware in Atlanta carries a lot of traditional hand tools for these things. Lee Valley also has some, as do others. You might also scoure the flea markets and barn sales...one never knows what might be found!

[Erin Raasch]

Here is a link to some good information on riving (http://www.greenwoodworking.com/riving/riving.htm) wood to make furniture. I'm not sure this is what you're looking for, but it might be worth taking a look at.

Erin

[Jerry Palmer]

Here is a link to some good information on riving (http://www.greenwoodworking.com/riving/riving.htm)wood to make furniture. I'm not sure this is what you're looking for, but it might be worth taking a look at.

Erin
That was my take also, given the tools he mentioned. Something I've thought about taking a shot at one of these days.

[Scott Behrens]

Erin,

I took a quick look through that page and it looks like it has most of the information I was looking for. I just wanted to try this and didn't want to spend $70 on a froe, $70 on a side axe, etc, etc... without knowing if I'd ever do it again. It looks like this can be done mostly with tools I have or can make.
Thanks

[Bob Smalser]

Using a froe and froe club (any large mallet...but a round one is easier) is a heck of a lot easier for any species that doesn't have interlocked grain than bandsawing.

You can make one out of a leaf spring from your local junk yard of find an oldie on Ebay....they were present in almost every rural farm household 80 years ago so there is no shortage of them....they split kindling well, too.

Large logs are split into wedges with 10lb hammer and steel wedges...

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/3075040/29094193.jpg

...then the wedges are split at each end to square them up as well as possible. Then you can run them thru the jointer to obtain one flat surface and move on from there on planer and TS....or entirely with hand planes if you want the workout.

You'll need 3 or more steel wedges for when you get one stuck, and depending on how straight-grained the wood is, you can come real close to a nice board with a little practice using the froe, as that long handle can be used to turn the edge inward or outward as you are splitting ala a drawknife.

[Charles McKinley]

Hi Bob,

Is a froe single edged or double edged? Im in the process of making one.

Thanks!

[Leif Hanson]

Single edged, so you can strike the back end of the cutting blade with a sledge or mallet as you work it through the wood:

http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/woodworking/logbuild/82u0401s2.jpg

[Charles McKinley]

LOL

Leif,

I didn't state my question very clearly. I ment to ask: Is the cutting edge single or double beveled. Do you sharpen just the side shown in you picture or is the back sharpened also?

Thanks

[Leif Hanson]

Whoops! Guess I should pay more attention! :)

The ones I have seen are just a single bevel, but then again they were mostly shop made and may have been that way just for simplicity. It acts as a wedge, mostly, so I don't think it matters much either way. Maybe Bob or somebody can clarify it more.

[Pam Niedermayer]

... Is the cutting edge single or double beveled. Do you sharpen just the side shown in you picture or is the back sharpened also?

A froe is not really supposed to be edged, since a sharp edge would subvert the process of splitting. Like Leif says, it's used more as a wedge than a cutting tool.

Pam

[Bob Smalser]

Here's my froe...it was out in a shed.

Forgot who in my family made it, but it began life as a truck leaf spring.

Double bevel like an axe....I keep it sharp enough to squash a stick of butter.

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/2594266/75238216.jpg

[Tom Sontag]

I keep it sharp enough to squash a stick of butter.

That doesn't sound too sharp. Couldn't a mallet be "sharp enough to squash butter"? Hey, wait, maybe I am the one who is being dull here....

[Charles McKinley]

Thanks Bob,

Scott have you check out Roy Underhill's books? He covers from selecting a tree to the finished board in "The Woodright's Shop."

I'm sorry for the hijack into froes.