Please help with cutting plan

[Ray Bell]

Hi All, this is a chunk of wallnut that I have laying around. I an always confused on how to cut these into bowl blanks. I don't know what the knot is, but I would like to include it in the bowl. This measures 14" at the widest, 9" tall, 81/2" thick including the knot, and 5" not including the knot.

Any suggestions appreciated.

[Tim Rinehart]

If this bark is stable (not mushy in layer between bark and sapwood), I'd take a saw to that knot, as flat as I could to the center of the tree (flat side already cut on opposite side of bark) and place between centers using spur drive.
True up in area where knot is to make a tenon for whatever chuck you have (if you have a chuck), and be sure to get rid of the pith area...you don't want any of it in either the bowl or the foot...more hassle than you can believe if you try to leave it there.

If the center of 'barked' area where your tailstock will initially come in isn't cleaned up after removal of the knot, use a forstner bit to clean enough area for your tailstock center to seat in solid wood.

Turn such that lower part of bowl is the 'outside' of the tree, and keep the natural edge.

Mount in chuck, finish outside and then hollow inside of bowl.

Hope that helps. It's what I'd do....but others ways exist.

PS..it will help to mark out biggest circle on the flat side, and trim away some of the excess material before mounting in lathe. Whatever you use for circle template, use it's center mark to place your spur drive while forming your foot tenon.

[Ray Bell]

[QUOTE=Tim Rinehart;1448905]If this bark is stable (not mushy in layer between bark and sapwood), I'd take a saw to that knot, as flat as I could to the center of the tree (flat side already cut on opposite side of bark) and place between centers using spur drive.
True up in area where knot is to make a tenon for whatever chuck you have (if you have a chuck), and be sure to get rid of the pith area...you don't want any of it in either the bowl or the foot...more hassle than you can believe if you try to leave it there.

If the center of 'barked' area where your tailstock will initially come in isn't cleaned up after removal of the knot, use a forstner bit to clean enough area for your tailstock center to seat in solid wood.

Turn such that lower part of bowl is the 'outside' of the tree, and keep the natural edge.


Mount in chuck, finish outside and then hollow inside of bowl.

Hope that helps. It's what I'd do....but others ways exist.

PS..it will help to mark out biggest circle on the flat side, and trim away some of the excess material before mounting in lathe. Whatever you use for circle template, use it's center mark to place your spur drive while forming your foot tenon.[/QUOT

Thanks Tim, lets see if I have this straight; you would slab the knot off, the bark side would end up being the outside of the bowl?

The bark does seem to be stable, and the pith will be turned out while turning the inside of the bowl?

[Dennis Ford]

I see a hollow form in that wood. I think:
Lay the flat side on the band saw table and cut out a circle with the knot centered. Then mount between centers and form a tenon or a flat spot for a face-plate opposite the knot. Should be able to get a hollow form with a lot of curl around the opening (opening would be in the center of the knot.

[Tim Rinehart]

I think I screwed up my directions... let me try again, again, for natural edge.
Most of the bark will actually be cut away as you are hollowing inside of bowl, does that make sense? This takes away more of the wood from the blank, vs the outside of bowl being where bark/sapwood area is, but makes nice natural edge bowl, personal preference.

- Get rid of knot as said.
- The tenon will be on the big flat side near where the pith is running (inside of tree). Get rid of the pith or plan to get rid of it when you clean up tenon at end of project. I've kept pith area in, as a pseudo-waste block, knowing it would be eliminated in final cleanup.

I'll see if I can sketch it up...if still not clear.