??? Bought a 152221240 Craftsman Professional 1.75 HP 10 Inch Table Saw

[Keith Nansteel]

Used, but I think got a good buy. Paid $200 for it and it has all the parts runs great. Even came with a lift kit so I can move it. Only problem is the former owner used the cast iron top for a staining table and the cast Iron is rusted and stained but not at all pitted or scored. I'd like to ask for some advice on how to properly clean the cast iron top, get the stain and rust off then wax seal it. Also, what does everyone think of this table saw? Thanks for any guidance!!!

[Joseph Tarantino]

i found this on another forum and it looks to be fairly comprehensive. HTH.

Rust Removal From Cast Iron Table Surfaces
By Keith O'Boyle - Here is a method I have used for removing rust from cast iron table surfaces. I've had great success with it on several machines that I've restored.
Get yourself a few packages of single edge razor blades (you'll need several blades) and one of those retractable holders with the rounded end that fits in your palm. Hold the blade (in holder) at about a 35-45 degree angle to the table, apply enough force to slightly flex the blade and take a nice long straight stroke right across the entire table. Take another stroke overlapping the first one slightly. Turn the blade over (180 degrees) to use the other side of the edge after every couple of strokes. Change the blade after a few strokes (you'll develop a feel for when the blade gets dull) or if you get a nick in it from hitting a burr or rough spot on the table (happens at the edges a lot).
You'll be surprised at how much rust, paint drips, grease and other crud you can remove this way. Its sort of like hand planing the rust off. I've even done this on some heavily rusted and pitted machined surfaces with good results.
After the razor blade treatment, I use a medium to course wire cup brush in an angle grinder or portable drill to remove the remaining residue (there won't be much) and polish the surface. I then wash the surface a few times with some mineral spirits soaked paper towels (they really get black on the first couple of washings) and finally, apply a coat of paste wax. If you plan on painting, do this before applying the wax as you're likely to get wax where you want paint to be such as the edge of the table.
I never use any abrasives (emery cloth, silicon carbide paper, etc.) on machined cast iron surfaces as I think these just scratch up the nice original factory surface with its machining marks. The razor blade or wire cup brush won't scratch because they're not really any harder than the table surface itself.

...and.....

"Dave's dirty dozen"


1) Scrape as much of the sludge as you can off with cardboard from the shipping container or a plastic scraper.
2) Use Simple Green right out of the container and tons of paper towels to get the rest off.
3) Wash off the Simple Green with more paper towels and clear water. Dry off with even more paper towels.
4) Spray the top down liberally with WD40. The WD in WD40 stands for Water Displacing, by the way.
5) Take a finishing sander, like a Porter-Cable 330, and put it on a ScotchBrite green pad. Random Orbital will work, but makes a hell of a mess.
6) Sand the top evenly until you feel like you've "massaged" the WD40 in very well. This also will knock some sharp spots off your top, a good thing.
7) Take even more paper towels, and wipe the top until dry. It will feel slightly oily.
8) Using a quality furniture paste wax (Johnson's, Minwax, Butcher's, whatever is available in your area), wax the top thoroughly and allow to dry.
9) Wipe off the bulk of the excess wax with paper towels.
10) Wax it again.
11) Buff well with paper towels.
12) Last step. Take a piece of wood with straight edges, and rub the surface of the saw in the direction of cut with the wood, as though you were cross-cutting it.
It's a damn sight more steps than "wash off with kerosene", which is what all the manuals say. But, it leaves a top that is seriously ready for work, and won't need to be screwed with every couple months. I rewax my tops every year or two, and they ain't rusty...

[Will Overton]

It's an excellent saw which got mostly good user reviews from the beginning. It was made by Orion/Steel City, and was considered by many as a turning point for Craftsman getting back into quality tools. It is one of the few hybrids with cabinet mounted trunnions, like a true cabinet saw. Most hybrids have table mounted trunnions, like a contractor saw. Mine is 5 years old and still no complaints.

It was discontinued this year in favor of a newer model with a granite to and riving knife.

[Joe Scharle]

I've had mine for about 5 years. All the saw I need.

[Cliff Polubinsky]

Used, but I think got a good buy. Paid $200 for it and it has all the parts runs great. Even came with a lift kit so I can move it. Only problem is the former owner used the cast iron top for a staining table and the cast Iron is rusted and stained but not at all pitted or scored. I'd like to ask for some advice on how to properly clean the cast iron top, get the stain and rust off then wax seal it. Also, what does everyone think of this table saw? Thanks for any guidance!!!
You got a great price. The saw retailed for close to a grand and on sale combined with Craftsman Club discounts and arm twisting it rarely went for much lower than $650. I've had one for years and have absolutely no complaints. Great saw.

Cliff

[Keith Nansteel]

Great advice on restoring the top and I'll do it. Can't ait to use it. I'm very glad to hear the good reports on the saw also. I'm certain I'll get many good years out of it. The reason I got a good deal was the owner was in the midst of a nasty divorce and didn't want his soon to be ex to get it. I also bought a Craftsman Dust Collector that looks new for $100 made my best friend real mad because he's been looking for a good deal on one for a year.

Thanks again!!!

[Will Overton]

On the dust collector, if you are just trying to keep the shop clean, excellent. If you are looking for the DC to keep the air you breath cleaner, the original bag is not so good. It came with a 30 micron bag; a 5 micron bag or a canister would better serve you.

Now, based on what you got and what you paid;







YOU SUCK!

[Paul Wunder]

Congrats on the saw. I own one and love it. At the price you paid it qualifies as a gloat. However, since you have not yet posted a picture you only deserve
a conditional YOU SUCK.

[Keith Nansteel]

The surface has paint stain and some rust but I already tried part of what was suggested to get it off and it looks like it will work GREAT. So when she's clean (read by Sunday) I'll post some pics. Also bought a Sears electronic radial armsaw for $125. putting a new table top on it tonight then I'll post pics on it also.

Just at the right place right time and cash in hand to haggle with....always works best.

[glenn bradley]

Another happy 22124 owner here. Done all I've needed for years.